I am replacing the center link/drag link on my 1984 300D. I've done this before, but with other brand parts.

However, on the Lemforder center link I bought from Pelican Parts, there is no Allen/hex key on the end of the shaft, like there is on other brands.

How am I supposed to tighten the lock-nuts without holding the shafts in place with an Allen socket? Is there some trick I'm missing here?

__________________
84 300D 255K "Mr B" ("Mr Becker")
79 300D 265K "Mrs B"
85 300TD 175K "Mali" (Sold)
74 Ford F-100 74K "Bonnie" (Sold)
67 Jeepster Commando (Sold)

Lemforder is a OE manufacturer for Mercedes

Your options are:

Use a non prevailing torque nut to get the taper set.

Grind the crimped portion of old nut then use it to set the taper.

Pry the joint together then tighten the nut.

Thanks. Ended up going with the third option (pry the joint together and tighten the nut), which worked like a charm.

The Lemforder parts seem to be well-built. I was just surprised that the tie rod ends had the Allen key in the end of the shaft but the drag link ends did not.

__________________
84 300D 255K "Mr B" ("Mr Becker")
79 300D 265K "Mrs B"
85 300TD 175K "Mali" (Sold)
74 Ford F-100 74K "Bonnie" (Sold)
67 Jeepster Commando (Sold)

I unexpectedly encountered the very same issue. For anyone experiencing this in the future...

Specifically, I did the following:
1. Placed my jack under each ball joint/end of the drag link with a piece of wood between the jack's saddle and the ball joint/end.
2. Gently raised the saddle placing just enough pressure that when tightening the nut, the spindle of the ball joint would not turn.
3. Slowly tightened the 17mm nut using my torque wrench until the specified 35Nm was reached.
4. Gently lower jack saddle and repeat process on other side.

Does the threaded section end in a hex like the top of shock absorbers?

Sixto
MB-less

No. See the attached picture.

Attached Thumbnails