Thats a good idea about the pictures. And yes it was the kit from ebay I was looking at. I'll just buy the one that should work(and not guess). I did , for what ever reason remove 2 of those no no nuts . I didn't move anything though after that......

I've gotta chase, and fix some pretty wicked oil leaks from around the vacuum pump area, change the mounts.I don't know if it needs them, but everything else rubber is bad-makes sense that they are too. If it ever runs again, the fuel tank is comming out to be cleaned. Who knows, if all goes well- it may have a working heater, and non leaky windshield seals.......Hmm might even weld back the seat mount to the rocker

You will need to find out what those 13mm IP Nuts are torqued to. I have that info somewhere but don't know where it is.

Someone had previously posted some Diagrams of the MW Pump that had that info.

If no one here knows someone on the Superturbodiesel Forum Might Know.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I think the thread you mention is listed here.

Diesel Injection:


.

__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
https://whunter.carrd.co/

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
2003 Volvo V70

https://www.boldegoist.com/

Now thats a thread! I'm in the process of ordering the kit. I've gotta get new washers for the fuel lines, banjo bolts etc. Are the thicknesses of the replacement sealing rings/ washers that critical? I was going to get some of about the same size...

Correct seal ring material and dimension is critical.

Leaks are a PIA to track down.

Personally I dislike re-doing work due to WRONG or low quality parts, and new seal rings are always cheaper than my time..


.

__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
https://whunter.carrd.co/

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
2003 Volvo V70

https://www.boldegoist.com/

I do agree with that. I am in NO way going to put bad quality parts back on it. I may have to go through MB to get the rings. Im still in the process of getting the kit for the lift pump. The Bosch dealer I'm going through cant look up the exact sealing rings. But they did send me a very nice copy of the parts breakdown, for my exact pump. I have never seen the exact pump in a breakdown-thats just amazing.

It seems that Bosch gets a tad touchy when their diagrams get into the public.

Here in Virginia the local parts stores have greatly reduced the quality of the parts. It seems that its easier for them to sell junk parts, and offer a life time warranty... Usually in a few months, you'll be back.......... They cant even get most simple merc parts. I've seen Made in China on so many "High Quality" parts, if time allows it - I buy most things on line. This local store Starts with A-and ends with Zone..

If you own a 70's Datsun truck its great though, there is a lifetime supply of everything they carry for it........As long as you don't mind having to keep fixing MIC parts.

The torque on the 13mm Hex nuts is 20-25 Nm.

From the pic below.

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thanks for that. Hopefully I didn't twist it to much when those nuts came off. The lift pump kit has finally been sent out. I also ordered the top cover plate(under the altitude adjust)gasket. I had too buy 5 of those, they came in a pack. So I will be putting a few of these up for sale if anybody wants them, just to brake even. I doubt there is much interest in them.

Also, I was reading a post a little while back about trying to find the spring in the fuel pressure relief valve. Did anybody come up with a solution for this? The Bosch dealer couldn't look it up, there was just a blank spot.....

Well the pump kit came the other day. We got it all back together, and timed. Sadly she sputters, but will not fully kick over. The valves are in adjustment. The hard lines are getting fuel. Glow plugs work just fine(pencil type). Its almost like it is sucking a tad bit of air some where, maybe in the secondary large filter can thingy? It puffs a tad from the valve cover hose, but always has ever since we have had it. I have yet to look towards compression....Other than that, I'm kinda puzzeled.

Gonna go try to charge the battery back up, and try again soon.

Is it running and safe to drive then? If so perhaps giving it a bit of a blast (once warm) will help - if it is air in the system then it could sort itself out with a bit of vigorous use - however if there is a leak you could just suck more in...

...and then you'll be stranded - but at least you'll know why!

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

At the moment it will not run. It cranks good, and sputters, but will not run. If the rain stops today, I'll take a look at it. I may try to crimp the return hose, to see what happens. Hopefully its timed right.............................

If it has an intact Block Heater System and there is somewhere to plug it in; try using that to get it hot before you start. Extra heat is a plus when trying to start and might make up for some loss of compression if there is sticky Piston Rings.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

It does have a block heater, I'm not sure if it works though. Anyway After some battery charging, and severe cranking it STARTED!!!!!!!! Quite a large cloud blew out the back. It sounded fine.

But it only ran for about 6 seconds. It acts like it is starving for fuel. I'm wondering if my hand primer pump thingy is going bad. There is no fuel leak, but when I pump it up really good- I can hear a small air leak some where around it(maybe filter gasket)?. Since it is the older very special pump, it is a tad harder to find, plus way more expensive. I may have to find a way to block it off, and still allow the fuel to be hooked up. Im hooked up to the in car tank, which is full of crap, but not clogging the filters....I'm sure I should get to cleaning it. There could be a crack in one of the lines from the tank.

Someone had a nifty trick for bleeding these systems with out the hand primer - I think it was to hook up an electric pump on the return line and just draw it all though...

...I can't remember who it was - JB3 perhaps or mach4?

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Well its time to report my findings. After more battery charging, priming, and gentle whispers of encouragement- it runs now.

Looks like there was a large amount of air in the system. It sounds very good, and peppy.

We had put in a new set of monark nozzles back in Feb, this was the first time we got to hear them. Gonna have to break out the hair dryer and some loctite to stop the weeping . So here is the list of what was done to it,

New lift pump kit
Stretched relief spring
Adjusted Ip timing(It was shockingly retarded,it needed advancing about an inch!)
New Secondary Fuel Filter.

If its a good little Mercedes, and the rust doesn't claim it first-then it will get a timing chain down the road.He loves to mark his territory with an oil spot. The upper pan is cracked at the housing. The vacuum pump, and upper breather hose is also to blame for the leak. The idler arm tube was rotted off the frame, fixed by yours truly. Its lasted fine for 12,000 miles .

Even with all of this, its still awesome. A little later on I will post on how it is doing.
Thanks for the help!