I know there are a few threads up on this subject, but I haven't found a few details I'm hunting for. Specifically, I am wondering if it is possible to do this without removing the steering box. There have been a few references to this, most involving removing the steering wheel, some type of locking ring, and then pulling up on the steering shaft.

Fast forward:
I've got the steering wheel off (plenty of threads on how to get that 10mm hex out, but mine had already been done, so no loctite to fight). I've got the hex bolts on the lower flex coupler loosened, so the shaft and worm can slide in and out. I've got the lower left dash cover off, and the lower hex screw out of the flex coupling behind the dash. I can move the steering shaft front and back, about 1/4", but no more.

The FSM seems to indicate that the lower flex coupler should slide quite a ways toward the steering box, but I did not see that much room. According to the manual, I should be able to push the steering shaft forward until it is free of the upper coupler, and the pull it back until it's free of the lower. This simply isn't happening on mine. I played with the coupler until I got this bit of play, but it seems like that's all I'm getting.

I've seen some posts stating it's as simple as pulling the steering wheel. Other methods you don't even need that, just to remove the steering shaft. Finally, I've seen ones which require removing a bearing from the steering shaft, but no specific instructions.

At this point, I've actually got everything back together (sans loctite, tho, so I want to get it done asap), and I'm contemplating two choices:

1) Maybe replacing the coupling without really tearing into the dash, and without undoing the steering box, on these models is a myth? I'm not opposed to pulling the box, but that's a different kind of job that I was thinking this was. I'll pull the box, replace the lines, fluid, filter, and pump seals, which were on the todo anyhow, and do the coupling then.

2) Is it simply that I need to go in through the instrument panel as well, and perhaps unlock or pull the tumbler to let me unbolt the column from above?

3) Maybe I can undo the other bolt on the upper flex disk, to free up a little more room in the shaft? Did I just misunderstand this point on the manual, that I actually need to do both bolts on the upper?

Thanks for all the help up to this point, this forum has been incredibly informative simply from viewing it.

EDIT:

Apparently you have to do something like #2, with the instruments out. It looks easy, but no tools at the moment.

I assuming you're talking about replacing the lower of the two steering couplings, right?

If you're careful you wouldn't have to remove the lines from the steering box. Simply removing the bolts (or two of the three if you could swing it) to give enough play should enable you to remove the coupling.

I'm curious as to why you're replacing them, they almost never seem to be warn out to me (I see quite a few of them). And they can't really fail in any way which would make the steering unsafe. (I've personally torn several apart)

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I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes!


1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]

It's the lower. I've seen it argued back and forth, that it isn't subject to significant stresses compared to other flex disks, that it could only crack in such a way that you wouldn't completely lose steering, etc. It's not too bad a crack either, but my gut feel was that I wanted to get this aging rubber part out of my steering system.

As to the lines, I planned on changing both, for the same reason as the coupling. I hadn't planned on pulling the box, though, to do that.

What I'm finding now, per my edit, is that I can either do this repair as part of working on the steering box (with some help lifting the box), but risk rounding out tight hex nuts; or I can do it during working on the cluster, also on the todo.

I think I will do it from above, by removing the jacket tube, and freeing the steering shaft, saving the box and lines for another day.

I went ahead and did it, from above as advertised. New coupling, along with a new steering lock and ignition tumbler.

Result: I was amazed by how much steering slack resulted from the coupler. I've seen many in much worse shape than this, yet my steering play went from about 1" to maybe .25". Just that difference made it worth it; with a new ignition lock to boot, it feels like a new car getting in and starting up.

Shutting down, though, I'm reminded of what I'm driving. I have time to get out of the car and lock up before the engine finishes it's death rattles. Oh well, time to chase some vacuum lines..



As for the install, I won't go through the whole thing, except for maybe some thoughts:

1. Pull the cluster, but do not disconnect the lines. This needs the extra space, but can be done completely from below.

2. Drop the steering jacket and shaft, by loosening the nuts without removal. Do this before removing the locking components. On installation, do not tighten these nuts until the locking system is fully reinstalled.

3. Completely remove the screw from the steering coupling connection to the steering shaft (the flat one, not the spline to the box) before removing the shaft. On the new coupling, do not insert this screw until the shaft is completely in place.

4. No need to even loosen the hex screw on the upper coupling. Just bring the whole jacket and shaft out together. Also, I've heard a rumor that you can pull an upper coupling from a pick'n'pull and replace the lower with it. Not true. The upper and lower parts are very different.

5. Put the coupler on the box first, you'll be able to sight it through the hole from the driver's seat. It took moderate force, wobbling, and wedging the coupler open slightly with a screwdriver.

6. I could not tighten the steering shaft nuts much until I had connected the steering wheel and gently rocked it left and right (steering lock removed at this point), which seemed to help seat the spline or flat connection. Everything then seemed to fit together quite well, and the nuts were easily tightened.

7. Not a lot of help for getting the ignition lock out or in. I think it went in like a 'T' with the socket for the tumbler to the right, and the steering lock down, up to where it's almost behind the cluster, then down into the steering jacket? Remember to drop everything down a little after you're done seating it. I did it with the big wire connected, but the vacuum and the smaller unhooked.

The steering lock seemed to be leaking wd-40 when I pulled it. Without the black cap, the silver plate of the tumbler hangs to one side.