Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 06-24-2013, 07:32 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Ormond Beach, FL
Posts: 7
Newbie and Sagging Engine Stop Lever

Hi all, I am a newbie to the forum and to the Mercedes diesel. I just bought a 1983 300D and during the drive home (275 miles) I think I may have lost something in the throttle linkage. At idle the engine stop lever wants to sag towards the valve cover. The lever has a lot of slop in it, so at idle it sags toward the front of the engine and toward the valve cover and causes the car to idle very poorly and in some cases shut off. I can move the lever back to the correct position and the car idles correctly. Moving the lever takes no effort, almost like a spring or bushing is missing . Other than this issue the car runs and drives great. I have attached some springs to the lever as a band aid and it seems to be working, but I would rather fix the issue properly. I have searched for this issue and didn't find anything on it, but if this is something that has been covered please let me know what to search for or attach the link. I attached some pictures to clarify.

Attached Thumbnails
Newbie and Sagging Engine Stop Lever-imag0827.jpg   Newbie and Sagging Engine Stop Lever-imag0828.jpg   Newbie and Sagging Engine Stop Lever-imag0829.jpg  

Last edited by Zawamj; 06-24-2013 at 10:09 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 06-24-2013, 09:44 AM
cho's Avatar
cho cho is offline
diesel power
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Europe
Posts: 934
rods

.

hi mate,

check the conn.rods lenghts first

no 60 - 160mm
no 61 - 100mm
no 41 - 184mm
no 80 - 196mm


edit: measure from center to center of the ball socket
(also examine you might have ruined ball socket)

cheers
ChO

.
Attached Thumbnails
Newbie and Sagging Engine Stop Lever-conn.jpg  
__________________
w126 500SEC gen II euro, powered by OM617 turbo stolen from 84 300SD 2.88 diff,EGR blinded
next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 06-24-2013, 10:08 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Ormond Beach, FL
Posts: 7
Thanks for the info, I will check those lengths and report back.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 06-24-2013, 02:22 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,740
Look between the injection pump and the engine block and confirm that #2 is still on the injection pump


78 300D Emergency Stop Lever

If this is fine, the next think to check, is the throttle pivot bushing on the firewall.
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 06-24-2013, 03:10 PM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 51,258
I the pic in the above post the lower part of 2 is spring loaded. When the Throttle is at idle does it that lower part of #2.

If not you need to adjust #2; #2 is the Idle Adjustment Screw and you need to loosen the Nut in the Middle in order to turn the Adjustment And tighten that Nut when done.

If it turns out #2 is broken off of the Housing one of our members had a way to fix that.

Back to the picture. If you follow the Throttle Lever all the way to the left you will notice there is a hole in it. There is supposed to be a Spring hooked into that Hole and the Spring goes down to a Bracket that bolts to the Engine Block down under the Rear of the Fuel Injection Pump and there is another hole for it to hook into.

See if that Spring is still there.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 06-30-2013, 09:38 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Ormond Beach, FL
Posts: 7
I got a chance this morning to check the linkages. Only one was on point, and two were off by 10mm+. I haven't had a chance to run the car yet to confirm that this was the issue. I did check the back of the pump and I see that #2 in the picture is there and the spring on the left side of the throttle is there, although I didn't confirm it was attached to anything on the bottom. When I get back from church this afternoon I will confirm whether those two things are operational. Thanks for all the help thus far.

One more thing while I'm here. I plan on removing the factory intake. This isn't for performance, or noise, it's because this engine is being prepped to be transplanted and the factory intake isn't coming along. What I want to know is if I run the crankcase vent to atmosphere via a "road draft tube," what do I do with the old oil drain from the separator in the intake? Does this just get plugged off somewhere? Again, I did a search and didn't find this aspect mentioned when people went the expel to atmosphere route. Also, I don't mind running a cheap separator if this a better solution.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 06-30-2013, 01:34 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Ormond Beach, FL
Posts: 7
I checked the linkage rods this morning and all but one were off. Two were 10mm+ too long. I haven't had time to run the car to confirm if there was a change. I did confirm that the #2 part and the spring are there, however I didn't check to see if the spring was attached to anything else. I will check those in a while.

Something else I am interested in knowing is what to do with the oil drain tube from the oil separator in the intake that goes into the engine when I pull the factory intake off. I have done plenty of reading about the factory intake flowing well and all, but because this engine is going to be used in a different application in a few months and the factory intake isn't going with it, I would rather pull it off now. I was going the "road draft tube" route, but I haven't read of anyone blocking this drain tube off. I am thinking about running an oil separator and draining back into it, but if blocking it off is the other option I would rather do that.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 06-30-2013, 02:39 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Ormond Beach, FL
Posts: 7
Just got done running the car and rechecking the spring and the idle adjustment screw. The spring seems good to go. The idle adjustment screw on the other hand isn't hitting the throttle at all. No even close actually. I sprayed it down with some rust penetrate and will be adjusting it later. We are having rain come through in waves today so I am only getting a few minutes of sunshine at a time.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 06-30-2013, 04:37 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Ormond Beach, FL
Posts: 7
I went to adjust the throttle stop and found that to definitely be the problem. When I went to break the lock nut free I found the issue. It wasn't tight. It was just slowly backing out the longer I drove the car. Thanks again for all the help, she is running like a champ now.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 07-01-2013, 01:43 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Ormond Beach, FL
Posts: 7
No one on what to do with the drain tube?

Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:21 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page