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#1
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Newbie and Sagging Engine Stop Lever
Hi all, I am a newbie to the forum and to the Mercedes diesel. I just bought a 1983 300D and during the drive home (275 miles) I think I may have lost something in the throttle linkage. At idle the engine stop lever wants to sag towards the valve cover. The lever has a lot of slop in it, so at idle it sags toward the front of the engine and toward the valve cover and causes the car to idle very poorly and in some cases shut off. I can move the lever back to the correct position and the car idles correctly. Moving the lever takes no effort, almost like a spring or bushing is missing . Other than this issue the car runs and drives great. I have attached some springs to the lever as a band aid and it seems to be working, but I would rather fix the issue properly. I have searched for this issue and didn't find anything on it, but if this is something that has been covered please let me know what to search for or attach the link. I attached some pictures to clarify.
Last edited by Zawamj; 06-24-2013 at 10:09 AM. |
#2
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rods
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hi mate, check the conn.rods lenghts first no 60 - 160mm no 61 - 100mm no 41 - 184mm no 80 - 196mm edit: measure from center to center of the ball socket (also examine you might have ruined ball socket) cheers ChO .
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w126 500SEC gen II euro, powered by OM617 turbo stolen from 84 300SD 2.88 diff,EGR blinded next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered |
#3
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Thanks for the info, I will check those lengths and report back.
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#4
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Look between the injection pump and the engine block and confirm that #2 is still on the injection pump
78 300D Emergency Stop Lever If this is fine, the next think to check, is the throttle pivot bushing on the firewall.
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#5
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I the pic in the above post the lower part of 2 is spring loaded. When the Throttle is at idle does it that lower part of #2.
If not you need to adjust #2; #2 is the Idle Adjustment Screw and you need to loosen the Nut in the Middle in order to turn the Adjustment And tighten that Nut when done. If it turns out #2 is broken off of the Housing one of our members had a way to fix that. Back to the picture. If you follow the Throttle Lever all the way to the left you will notice there is a hole in it. There is supposed to be a Spring hooked into that Hole and the Spring goes down to a Bracket that bolts to the Engine Block down under the Rear of the Fuel Injection Pump and there is another hole for it to hook into. See if that Spring is still there.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#6
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I got a chance this morning to check the linkages. Only one was on point, and two were off by 10mm+. I haven't had a chance to run the car yet to confirm that this was the issue. I did check the back of the pump and I see that #2 in the picture is there and the spring on the left side of the throttle is there, although I didn't confirm it was attached to anything on the bottom. When I get back from church this afternoon I will confirm whether those two things are operational. Thanks for all the help thus far.
One more thing while I'm here. I plan on removing the factory intake. This isn't for performance, or noise, it's because this engine is being prepped to be transplanted and the factory intake isn't coming along. What I want to know is if I run the crankcase vent to atmosphere via a "road draft tube," what do I do with the old oil drain from the separator in the intake? Does this just get plugged off somewhere? Again, I did a search and didn't find this aspect mentioned when people went the expel to atmosphere route. Also, I don't mind running a cheap separator if this a better solution. |
#7
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I checked the linkage rods this morning and all but one were off. Two were 10mm+ too long. I haven't had time to run the car to confirm if there was a change. I did confirm that the #2 part and the spring are there, however I didn't check to see if the spring was attached to anything else. I will check those in a while.
Something else I am interested in knowing is what to do with the oil drain tube from the oil separator in the intake that goes into the engine when I pull the factory intake off. I have done plenty of reading about the factory intake flowing well and all, but because this engine is going to be used in a different application in a few months and the factory intake isn't going with it, I would rather pull it off now. I was going the "road draft tube" route, but I haven't read of anyone blocking this drain tube off. I am thinking about running an oil separator and draining back into it, but if blocking it off is the other option I would rather do that. |
#8
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Just got done running the car and rechecking the spring and the idle adjustment screw. The spring seems good to go. The idle adjustment screw on the other hand isn't hitting the throttle at all. No even close actually. I sprayed it down with some rust penetrate and will be adjusting it later. We are having rain come through in waves today so I am only getting a few minutes of sunshine at a time.
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#9
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I went to adjust the throttle stop and found that to definitely be the problem. When I went to break the lock nut free I found the issue. It wasn't tight. It was just slowly backing out the longer I drove the car. Thanks again for all the help, she is running like a champ now.
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#10
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No one on what to do with the drain tube?
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