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  #31  
Old 08-08-2013, 10:19 AM
JB3 JB3 is offline
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Location: RI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Air&Road View Post
If you buy a lift, don't settle for anything besides a Two Post. They allow you to do most anything under a car. A four post is not NEARLY as versatile.
x2 on this.

All you need to do is break past the idea that buying a lift for yourself is a crazy move.

Best thing ive ever done, after getting hosed on some work vehicle repairs, I was sick of paying through the nose, so I decided I was going to do most of my own maintenance instead.

Within a week, I had bought a 12k two post out of a closing auto shop for 700 bucks, cost me another 500 to have it put up by an insured team, and a few hundred to transport it down, still, less than 2k and I have a 2 post in my workspace behind a bunch of appliances that can lift a full size pickup.

Ive saved more than that in maintenance costs I can do myself now in the 2.5 years ive had it, so its been a good investment. The only downside, is if you have a project car, it starts to live on the lift.

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  #32  
Old 08-08-2013, 10:22 AM
Posting since Jan 2000
 
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No sweat jb, just raise the project car and park your daily driver underneath.
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  #33  
Old 08-08-2013, 10:51 AM
Fold on dotted line
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: SE Mich
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KAdams4458 View Post

The only downside I see to this jack is that once it's on the floor, it stays there. The thing must weigh between 80 and 100 pounds, so you certainly don't want to try to keep it in your trunk.
This is why I have systematically sold all my 1-3 ton jacks except for the 5 tonners and the 12 ton air over hydraulic. The smaller jacks are all aluminum so old guys like me do not get a coronary lifting them into the truck
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Invest in America: Buy a Congressman!

1950 170SD
1951 Citroen 11BN
1953 Citroen 11BNF limo
1953 220a project
1959 180D
1960 190D
1960 Borgward Isabella TS 2dr
1983 240D daily driver
1983 380SL
1990 350SDL daily driver alt
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  #34  
Old 08-08-2013, 02:38 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldsinner111 View Post
I bought my aluminum racing jack from Summit.It for low profile vehicles too.I have kids all the time wanting to borrow it to lift their lowered cars. The jackstands I will buy from Sears.I don't trust my life with Chinese steel
Where exactly do you think all these Jack are being produced lately?

Even the Sears Floor jacks are made in China, look on the box they come in.

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #35  
Old 08-08-2013, 03:20 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
Posts: 9,673
You don`t need no wimpy jacks, when a big 4x4 will do just fine.

Safety first. Man crushed while working on his car

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #36  
Old 08-08-2013, 04:07 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
Posts: 9,673
I was searching for the article I mentioned above of the jack slipping and falling on the guy. there is a ton of info on this happening on the following thread. This post in the thread shows the Pin type of jack Stand which I believe is the safer of the two type of jacks. the ratchet type are the only one`s that seem to be sole.

The Pin type stand has a flat base instead of the 3 or four legs most have and looks much sturdier.

Man Crushed working on car


Man Crushed working on car


Charlie
__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #37  
Old 08-08-2013, 06:59 PM
KAdams4458's Avatar
Mmm! Diesel!
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Snohomish, WA
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I have to admit that I have a pair of 2-1/2 ton ratchet stands that I picked up from NAPA a few years back for about $80... Far more than the Harbor Freight stands cost even today. I use them almost exclusively when I had to be under a car. Why? Well, the warning labels aren't in Engrish, and they were made in Taiwan. I just trust Taiwan steel more than China steel, and I didn't want to be the guy that dies under a car when a stand that has "Al ways whear saftedy glassses" printed on it lets go and gets me crushed.
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My '77 300D progress thread

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  #38  
Old 08-08-2013, 08:43 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: West of Ft. Worth. TX
Posts: 4,186
For a lift jack, Arcan. Yes, it weighs nearly 100 lbs but for the money, it's hard to beat and close to bulletproof. I also work in gravel and sandy soil a lot so a good sheet of 3/4"x2'x2' plywood does the trick for jacking.

For jack stands, I currently use Torin but as expected, they tend to sink in the sandy soil. However, I have had my eye on these: Hein-Werner Jack Stands — 3-Ton Capacity, 2-Pk., Model# HW93503 | Jack Stands| Northern Tool + Equipment They have a small tab enclosing the bottom of the leg to slow down the "sinking". Made in the U.S.A. to boot. These are nice but twice the price: ESCO Jack Stand — 3-Ton Capacity, Model# 10498 | Jack Stands| Northern Tool + Equipment
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84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )
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  #39  
Old 08-09-2013, 07:17 AM
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All Smoke No Spool
 
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Location: Orange Co, NC
Posts: 131
I looked at aluminum jacks of many flavors but they dont inspire much faith unless your price budget is $250+. I believe my current weighs about 70-80# which isnt light but has two easy lift points. Some things i would rather be heavy, lifting and rigging fall into that category.
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  #40  
Old 08-09-2013, 08:10 AM
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Thanks guys. Getting a little old to crawl under the car
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  #41  
Old 08-09-2013, 08:35 AM
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lied to for years
 
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Location: Elizabethton, TN
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Talk about Aleee I can't get down,because I need help getting up.Everything hurts.Going to the bathroom the first thing in the morning kills me.I need a bed pan.Until my pain meds take hold.Getting old is not for sissy's
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  #42  
Old 08-09-2013, 08:43 AM
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I'm another one who has used a Harbor Freight floor jack for about 12 years with good results. I use auto-parts store ratchet jack stands rated for about 5000 lbs, I figure even if they're not really up to that kind of weight they should be plenty strong enough to hold up a corner of any of my cars.

When I take a wheel off to go under the car, I put the whole wheel under the car too at a spot the car could theoretically rest on if the jack fails. Once I get the car sitting on the jack stand, I put the floor jack back on somewhere nearby so it can support the car if the jack stand fails.
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'97 E300D 239K miles
'85 300D 203K miles (sold Sep 2012)


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  #43  
Old 08-09-2013, 09:12 AM
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Location: Barrington, RI
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While it's probably better than I need, the Arcan ALJ3T looks like a good choice....$207. About the last thing in the world where I'd be concerned about saving money. And maybe some Torin stands...or maybe not...some bad reviews.
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91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
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  #44  
Old 08-09-2013, 09:33 AM
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All Smoke No Spool
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Orange Co, NC
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Now what i would love to see is a ratchet lock integrated into the side of a floor jack. Seems simple enough to engineer and no repositioning needed.
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  #45  
Old 02-08-2014, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
Always put a piece of scrap plywood between the jack stand and the car for a non slip interface.
Have any pictures? How thick of plywood? Is plywood better than a solid plank?

Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post

I have two 3/4" rods that fit into the jack Holes, and have a 15deg bend to make them level. I jack up the car, and then set the jack Stands on these. works great. then there isn`t the problem as to where to place the stands under the vehicle.
Have pictures? Did you make them yourself? Or have a source? I like this idea!

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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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