It's playing now but I'm not too sure I can help much on this. Your tick sounds a little more pronounced than mine but both yours and mine have the same frequency, about 2.5 to 3 times per second which, if i've done the math correctly is about the same frequency a piston fires at idle.

I know someone will correct me if I'm wrong on that calculation.

When did you notice the knock knocking? I swear I noticed mine after a valve adjustment. I turned some valves on their seats like you're not supposed to do, but it was my first valve adjustment. After adjusting 2 more times in 3 weeks, it's still there.

I even got a stethascope and was able to narrow it down to somewhere near #5 cylinder. Use your screwdriver and listen on the exhaust manifold and see if you hear metal on metal tapping or ticking. I heard that and thought it was a valve not seating evenly.

Does it still have plenty of power?

Willson
85 300CD

I wonder if it may be the vacuum pump?

Since this is a conversion, I can't help much....but having the oil gauge under the hood, I have to wonder if there is a working temp gauge.....synthetic leaks out a lot more then dino and does burn off a lot easier....plus your using a thin oil....not being able to monitor the oil pressure during drive, I wonder if it went low....I am also not positive about the drive line, it is possible it isn't correct and it put more strain on the engine....

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Sounds like a loose valve to me. While you have the VC off, look also for a broken valve spring.

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'83 300D, 126K miles.

Right on, Guys, I will check for broken valve springs. It certainly coincides with the duration of 1 cylinder.

The temp gauge works fine, but is under the hood as well, I will be wiring in the stock gauges with potentiometer to adjust.

She has pretty good power, I haven't had any oil consumption or leaks to speak of (I replaced most of the gaskets with new.) The oil pressure goes to 3+ bar at 2000 rpm, and the FSM lists the limit at 3bar@3000rpm and no more than 0.3 bar at idle. The lowest I see warm is 1.3 bar and now with the Lucas is closer to 1.5 bar.

I was thinking about the vacuum pump too from something I had read on another forum. How would I diagnose? Take off the pump?




(P.S. - I just realized that I have a cheap contact mic for guitar tuning, maybe I will try using that with the bar to localize and record the sound...)

Oh, and as far as the driveline goes, the OM617 is fitted to a R151f Toyota transmission. to the wheels it has a custom built drive shaft, and the system turns freely with no binding with the suspension at full articulation. I also have the MB tach in the cab so that I don't "bog" or "lug" the motor as well. (and Pyro/Boost).



BTW: Does any one have a wiring schematic for the ALDA?

Does the overboost switch on the intake manifold just provide a ground to the VacSolenoidValve, with +B being on the other terminal?
(I would rather adjust the stock system appropriately rather than dismantle them if possible and reasonable.)




For more video fun, here is the 'ol cap blow-by test...

OM617 Valve Cover Cap Blowby - YouTube

not a rod knock. combination of valves too loose and injector/

Just for comparison, I uploaded one of my ticking too. It's not recorded as well as your video, but this is what I hear while driving.

OM617 Ticking - YouTube

I've got another one too sitting at idle where its more noticeable so I can upload that one if anybody wants me to.

Basically, I think we have the same problem but yours is easier to hear.

That does sound very similar!


I would be interested to hear the one at idle, what bar does your oil press. set at at 90C?

What are you running for oil?

When were the valves last adjusted?



Here's a few interesting views on oil...

You guys seem like you might appreciate

It would be interesting to have a larger oil survey...

I have always prescribed to the dino-camp for Toyota 22re's

Hey cadin, I just took a video today and I'm workin on putting it on youtube now. It should be up later tonight.

Pop & blow is on to something about valve clearance. Make sure you get in there and do a valve job so that's ruled out but also look for broken springs. I can only speak from experience and I knew it was advised to keep the valves from turning on their seats while adjusting but I turned a few before I really knew what I was doing.

As for oil pressure, I've never gotten the temp up to 95 except for once when I had air in the system and was in city traffic. I do mostly city driving and she'll get up to 85 after some time driving, at that point my oil pressure is around 1.5 to 1.3 bar.

Your knock is just as noticeable under the hood as it is behind the wheel but mine is more noticeable behind the wheel, which is why I got the stethoscope to hit everything from vacuum pump to torque converter to muffler.

We'll keep at it.

Willson
85 300CD

I built my valve adjustment wrenches out of Harbor Freight wrenches that I heated up with a torch and bent to whatever angle looked right for what I was doing. I ground down the appropriate areas so they were thin enough to only turn one nut at a time, and then hardened the whole thing by heating to cherry red and dunking in water. If you don't have an ox-acetylene outfit, a propane torch will take longer but work fine for bending. Or a camp stove.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

Here's the vid of mine at idle with the tick.

I realize its not as noticeable as yours but its running at about the same rate.

om617 idle tick - YouTube

617Yota, I did the same thing with some store brand Northern Tool 14mm wrenches, well I tried but they weren't "cheap enough." I marked them off, put em in a vise and gave them some heat via propane torch. I ended up breaking them from not enough heat during the bend. But yeah it really is doable with the heat from oxy-ceteline. I found a homemade pair on ebay for $45 about 6 months ago so maybe I lucked up.

Wish I had been on here six months ago, I'd have been happy to bend you up a set for less than $45.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

Alright here's the final one haha, I forgot to rev it earlier.

OM617 Ticks but clock doesn't - YouTube

It's not much of a rev but if you want to put a smile on your face, adjust the Bowden till it shifts at 4500, then as soon as it gets into 4th, man its a beautiful transition.

And you asked about oil, the previous owner used 50 weight oil because he said it leaked with thinner oil, turns out that's true with older seals.

Last valve adjustment was in March, and before that well Lord knows.
Of course all but one were tighter than hell.

I started using 15W40, and yeah she was still leaving her mark but hey that's another reason to do a valve adjustment. After replacing the VC gasket my leak quit. The closest thing to synthetic I've used is Rotella T5 which is 10W40 that I used last winter. All I will use now is any type of CI 15W40 oil year round since it only gets down to low 30s in dead of winter down here in SC.

Waste_Gate, your car seems to have ample power!

I also came across this but for some reason had never seen it before:

life or death 300d knock

What is interesting is that the fellow found a bad main bearing, but the crank and rod bearing were fine...


I Finally got to a valve adjustment this evening, (finished fabricating the wrenches this morning) and all were mega-tight. I adjusted them to the loose side, as one of the local Mercedes gurus recommends; his logic is that they run in the "sweet spot" longer since they tend to tighten over time.

I also have a question for everyone, why shouldn't the valve spring towers be rotated? I just figured the simple method would be to scribe them, but I read on another forum that they have rotators (rotating washers) at the bottom that help to ensure an even seat wear and contact throughout the life of the engine. --What gives? What would it hurt to rotate an assembly that is made to rotate to ensure even wear?

Also, for the Mega-Bonus, does anyone know what size the Hazet valve spring holder wrench is?

The valve adjustment seemed to quiet things a bit, and smoothed out the power, but the knock persists.

I also wonder about air in the fuel filter, I cannot seem to bleed it all out... what is your guys experience with this? I primed it until the valve makes its noise.

Air bubble remaining in the plastic pre filter is normal.