|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
I Need a Picture
Could one of you guys post a photo (not a drawing) of the turbo to intake manifold connection on a OM617?
The drawing in my Haynes manual is not very useful. My intake has a cast-in step about 260ish degrees around the inside opening. The outlet of the turbo fits loosely in that opening. If it went all of the way around I'd think an O-ring would seal the turbo to the intake but it looks like said O-ring would just blow thru on the part without the step. I wonder if I'm missing a part or if there's a different seal other than the O-ring that I have, which seems to be the right diameter. The turbo seemed to be leaking when I got the car so I'm thinking it was wrong from the start. No telling WHAT the PO did to it! Dan |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Sorry, the turbo is bolted to the manifold on my cars.
The epc drawing shows a straight up and down configuration. There is a "connector" tho.
__________________
83 SD 84 CD |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
Unless my 81 and 83 SDs were different from other 617s, there's a coupler between the turbo and manifold. There's a picture on the bottom left corner of page 126 that shows the coupler hanging from the manifold as the turbo is removed.
Sixto 87 300D |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks Guys!
That adaptor was kinda what I was expecting but mine seems to be a weird deal. Following are pics of the manifold and turbo in the place that it fits. See if this looks familiar to anyone. The manifold looks like what's in the book but the turbo fitting seems like it's the wrong sex. I wonder if Tim's Turbos changed that housing when they beefed up the turbo. If you guys tell me that's not the usual M-B deal I'll Email Tim and see if he has a solution. Thanks again Dan |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
That's a non-stock housing!
You can grind a lip on the outside of the merc manifold, and smooth that step on the inside to be able to use a silicone (or cheap rubber) connector. This is a perfect excuse to buy a w115 intake
__________________
$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges $110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges No merc at the moment |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
you have an air reasearch 60 turbo... nice.
it's about twice the size of a stock turbo... kkk and garret 30's are what use the nipple in the above pic... that turbo is gonna be SICK on this motor! what IP do you have?
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
So far it's stock but that will need to change. Greazzer and I are working out a deal for some 315 injector nozzles and I may run with those and the stock pump as I wait for finances to heal a bit.
Looks like I'll need to work out a way to hook the turbo to the intake. Dan |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
You might be able to put in some rope to seal the inside so you wouldn't get too much on the inside then caulk it with silicone.
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Either a rubber sleeve (think a short hunk of radiator hose) or nip most of the bell off the intake and use a silicone connector - these seem like my best bet. I'll see if the rebuilder has a suggestion.
Dan |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
That will be the easiest way to do it. If you use rubber radiator hose spray WD40 on it first-that causes the hose to melt onto the aluminum part. The downside with rubber hoses is that the heat and oil vapor will break them down in a couple years (of regular use)
__________________
$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges $110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges No merc at the moment |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
I'll go with silicone if I decide to go that way. We ran them for years on the dyno without issue as long as we supported the joint. We used turnbuckles across the connection.
Dan |
Bookmarks |
|
|