1965 190Dc Possible head gasket failure. Diagnosis help.
 

Five minutes after starting up this morning I was on a divided highway doing about 50 and plumes of white smoke started pouring out the back of the car. I had some loss of power intermittently with the plumes. Oil pressure and temp looked okay so I limped home (five to eight minute drive).

Got it in the garage and shut it down. There was coolant sprayed around the engine compartment. Oil level looked the same and I didn't see water on the dipstick. I had some pinhole leaks in the radiator before but there was water in a number of places and my radiator overflow had quite a bit of water in it. There were wisps of evaporating coolant coming off the hot parts of the motor.

What steps shall I take to diagnose this tonight? Drain the oil and look for coolant? What else might it be besides the head gasket?

Could the smoke have been coming from the engine bay and NOT out of the exhaust pipe?

I'd say you have to get everything dry under the hood and then start it up. If I were a betting man, I'd say NO to the head gasket and yes to a coolent leak in either a hose or the radiator.

It's possible, and of course I want that to be the case. The loss of power led me to think it was water in the compression chambers.

I know the radiator went from pinhole leaks to something more major. I guess I'll know when I start it up after work and see if anything comes out of the tailpipe.

X2 on a coolant leak and not a head gasket.

Got home and shined a flashlight into the radiator, nothing much in there. Checked the dipstick and saw nothing but oil on there. I added a gallon of coolant and glowed it up. First try it's acting as if seized and not turning over. Second try it started and no smoke came out of the tailpipe in 30 seconds so I shut her down. I looked it over again and the tried again and now it's acting as if it's seized, starter's working hard and it's not budging. Looks bad guys.

remove all four injectors and inspect for water in cylinders. hopefully its just hydrolocking, better than the engine actually locking up due to bearing failure or something like that.

This seems probable. I'm going to try to get this done this morning. Shall I try to turn it over with the injectors out?

Before cranking, lay a towel over the injector holes to capture the evidence.

Before work this morning I removed the fuel lines from the IP and the returns. What's the proper socket size for removing the injectors? I'll have to pick up a set of long sockets in the proper sizes.

The nuts holding the return lines were on there really good so I assume the injectors are going to be stiff as well. Is it appropriate to use a breaker bar here?

Any other tips are appreciated, I'm in new territory.

FYI
 

If coolant entered the oil pan................

The dip stick shows what is on TOP........

Oil floats on water = the oil pump pickup may be in coolant..........

Remove the drain plug, one quart off the bottom will verify this issue..

If there is no coolant in the oil, the bearings should be OK = proceed with cylinder head inspection and gasket replacement.

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http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/325016-1980-240d-cracked-cylinder-head-cavitation-damage.html

Here is a good thread to review, to overcome the FEAR FACTOR of a cylinder head gasket.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/325433-1985-300td-head-gasket-repair.html

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The first quart of liquid out of the pan was water. What's next? How much for a rebuilt 190D motor? Am I there yet?

Oh, I see $7k from mercedesengines.net

:sad2:

Answer
 

#1. Drain the cooling system.
#2. Drain the oil.
#3. Get the cylinder head off this weekend.
#4. Clean the oil filter housing.
#5. PRE SOAK the new oil filter before installing.
#6. Fill engine with CHEAP fresh oil.
#7. If there are no cracks and the the cylinder head is not warped:

#8. Be extreme; cleaning the parting surface of the engine block and cylinder head, until there is no possible trace of old gasket.

#9. Replace the cylinder head gasket.
#10. Install the cylinder head.
#11. Re-fill the cooling system.
#12. Try to start and run the engine.
#13. Run the engine for 3 - 5 minutes, change the oil and filter.
#14. If the oil comes out with no contamination you have done all you can.
#15. If the oil is still contaminated, repeat steps #2, 4, 5, 6, 12, 13.....

If the engine does not develop a true rod KNOCK within Eight hours or less of driving, 95% odds there is no serious damage.


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If time, money and work space is not an issue, I would consider:
* Pull the engine.
* Remove the cylinder head for cleaning, testing, rebuild or replacement.
* Flush the engine oil galleries, the procedure is described in this thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/324783-1992-300d-2-5-vacuum-pump-failure-ball-bearings-fell-into-timing-chain.html
* Replace the rod and main bearings, again the procedure is described in this thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/324783-1992-300d-2-5-vacuum-pump-failure-ball-bearings-fell-into-timing-chain.html

Essentially this would roll back 50% of the engine wear factors at least 40 years.
NOTE: The remaining prime wear factors are rings, wrist pins, cylinder sleeves.

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Sir, you are my hero. I will begin Saturday afternoon after I pick up some additional tools and some cheap oil.