The over filling would not cause this.
Heads can warp with age or if they are not unbolted /bolted up correctly, this is an alloy head & they are very susceptible to any mistreatment.
it should have been at least checked with a straight edge while it was off. The can chain tower is particually susseptible to being bent out of shape while being removed.

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1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
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1987 250td 160k miles English import
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Ah, very good Thanks on both counts.

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1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."

There is a small / slow oil leak at the front of the head on my OM602 that I haven't fixed because of head gasket related fears.

I recall reading about a sealant on a Jag forum that is resistant to heat, oil, fuel and just might work for this situation, its called Hylomar.

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If it were me... I'd tighten the two bolts that straddle that oil galley (which is a common leak source on the OM60x). I did this once on an OM603 and it reduced the leak from annoying to almost imperceptible. Loosen each about 1/8 turn, then tighten 1/4 turn from that point (i.e., tighten 1/8 turn only). Or, go ask the muppets why it's still leaking, and try to keep a straight face while they make up excuses.

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Looking at page 5 of this PDF would shertex do 16, 20 & 22?

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I don't think Dave is suggesting to pull the bolts completely, not even to measure. Simply back off a tad then tighten a tad and a half. I think shertex said the shop used new bolts.

Sixto
87 300D

Agreed, the comment "Loosen each about 1/8 turn, then tighten 1/4 turn from that point (i.e., tighten 1/8 turn only)" made that clear .

I was simply trying to determine the exact bolts. Gsxr mentioned 2 bolts but the PDF shows 3 in that area.

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Oh, I thought you meant procedure steps

21 and 22 should do it. The passage is on the other side of 20 from 16.



Sixto
87 300D

But, dang, looking at this picture, I wonder if shertex's head had the same pitting that the shop didn't address -



Picture pilfered from '90 300D -- OM602 delivery valve seals and head gasket replacement - Page 3 - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum

Sixto
87 300D

So, if tightening doesn't do the trick, what are my options?

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06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 178k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 145k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete

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Live with the leak would be mine.

Sixto
87 300D

I was thinking 20 and 22, and I think those are the ones I tightened, but 21 wouldn't hurt either...

At this point it is virtually impossible to say what went wrong in the job. I felt victomised a few times many many years ago. This resulted in my doing all my own work. Before that period either the cars where less complex or the mechanical trade had more ethics and knowledge and there were no difficulties experienced by me.

It probably has got worse and worse over the years. Basically too much half assed work done today with few workers really caring. Or people with real troubles on the job in too many cases.

One approach I might consider is to remove one bolt at a time from the problematic area. Check it for not being overstressed. Then take a known good torque wrench and reset it by the correct procedure. Basically at the individual bolt level take the isolated bolt and set it to the total static pressure recommended. Then take your stretch turns by spec.

The shop you used may not have had a torque wrench with good calabraition or may have. So those bolts could be loose or tight or normal but my suspicion is they might be under torqued if this shop does not calibration check their torque wrench from time to time. Or a worker did not look up the spec.

Almost anything is possible today. There of course are still really good mechanics out there. But too many of the other type are giving the trade a bad image for quite some time now.

Who knows? Poor quality new bolts could have even been overstretched already. A poor bolt usually goes kind of easy near the end of the final quarter turn. Its stretch is out of control. Unfortunatly what I have mentioned is but one of many possibilities. Still may be the easiest and cheapest to check yourself.

Also a customer can get billed for new head bolts with the old ones still used is another possibility and where the old bolts where not even checked..

Thanks for the responses, guys. Reminds again of what an invaluable resource this forum is!

Trying to assemble in my mind the possible causes of the problem.

1. Defective or compromised gasket
2. Improperly torqued bolts
3. Warped or damaged head
4. Block and or head surfaces not perfectly clean
5. Re-use of old bolts (even though charged for new ones)

Anything else come to mind?

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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 159k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 178k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 145k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete

19 Honda CR-V EX 75k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife

muppets

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1991 300D