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#16
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ahh, that's good then. I figured you were taking the car to the shop to have the joints swapped... SCARY!
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#17
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Quote:
If it is true there is a lot of Rick Folks in Florida perhaps the Labor Rate is High there.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#18
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They are probably uro then, do yourself a really big favor....install lemforder parts....this way they won't need changing again in 5000 or less miles...
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#19
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I just did my uppers and lowers and tie rods yesterday. No issues with the spring, just left it there.
I did completely pull LCA and then spindle, and let the indy press the old ones out I used the autozone rental tool to press in the new ones. Easy peasy. $25 each to press out the old lowers. Still better than me futzing around with it, and wife ran them out to the shop while I did the uppers. Probably one of the more rewarding and fun jobs on the W123. Used a simple pickle fork on both upper and lower BJs and tie rods (I have a 3 pickle fork set).
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Eric, CPO, Submarines, retired. Here's a sig line... Mine: '68 Corvette LS1/4L65E, 83 240D, 2000 GMC 4x4, 08 FLSTC Anniv Hers: '72 Corvette 454/4spd, '99 MB SLK, '93 Metro vert, 78 240D, '92 Silverado, '65 Fjord Rustang, '59 Fjord Fairlane, '17 Slingshot. |
#20
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Quote:
the 123 has an enormous spring that must be safely compressed if you are removing the LCA...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#21
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Quote:
However, I bought that kit at least 4 Years ago. It could be URO uses Rubber Boots not.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#22
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^^^^ my uro tie rod boots completely rotted in less then 5 months......but the other tie rod assembly bought at the same time and is also uro is fine.....and I had uro on my other Benz for years with out an issue.....but my current experience.....I will not use any more uro parts
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#23
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definitely would not buy anything uro that was related to the safety or comfort of the car. i ended up with URO window runs and the quality is maybe 25% of mercedes and the window is already rattling again after not even a year.
the UCAs are lemfoerders purchsed right here on PP
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1981 NA 300D 310k miles |
#24
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Don't put a jack stand under the LCA or knuckle. Both will be able to move and to tilt. I can't imagine a more dangerous way to support the car for this job. I put a jack stand under the "frame" so the car is securely supported, then use a bottle jack under the knuckle or LCA to raise it the inch or two as needed to ease the job.
The internal stops in the shocks are sufficient to prevent the spring from hyperextending, but parts fail, and that'd be a pretty nasty failure to be surprised by, so don't assume it'll just work. I can't do the hammer thing to pop a ball joint for my life, and I never did much like the forks, so I got one of those ball joint poppers from NAPA. It squeezes on the ends of the threads of that ball joint, so back that nut off just far enough to prevent the tool from mushrooming those threads (makes nut easier to remove after popping joint), but not so far that it'll pop off and go flying when the joint separates (just in case). From the factory, the Mercedes engineers decided it would be a good idea to install one of the bolts that hold the UCA to the car backwards, so as to make the job as hard as possible. If you're unlucky, you'll have to pull other, unrelated parts (brake booster?) to remove the bolt. If you have to do that, please reinstall the bolt the correct way for your own future sanity. More than likely, some previous sane mechanic has already done this for you. When installing the UCA, I find that raising the knuckle a bit to put upward pressure on the UCA ball stud helps add enough friction to get the nut on without spinning the ball. To avoid pre-stressing the rubber UCA bushing, don't fully torque that bolt until after you've dropped the car back onto the ground and bounced the bumper a few times.
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'83 300DTurbo http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-us/318559.png Broadband: more lies faster. |
#25
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i was able to do the passenger side today. the UCA that was on the car was meyle...i looked at the previous owner's invoice from the mechanic and he was charged $120 a piece for the UCAs... 7 years ago?! did meyle used to be high quality back then? i know they are crappy now. that doesnt include labor. wow.
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1981 NA 300D 310k miles |
#26
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Quote:
Sorry, I'm not always quite here.
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Eric, CPO, Submarines, retired. Here's a sig line... Mine: '68 Corvette LS1/4L65E, 83 240D, 2000 GMC 4x4, 08 FLSTC Anniv Hers: '72 Corvette 454/4spd, '99 MB SLK, '93 Metro vert, 78 240D, '92 Silverado, '65 Fjord Rustang, '59 Fjord Fairlane, '17 Slingshot. |
#27
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also ironically enough i also did the passenger side sway bar bushing.. and i used a meyle, made in china. gulp.
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1981 NA 300D 310k miles |
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