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  #1  
Old 10-29-2013, 01:00 PM
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window bushing replacement 300 SD

Hello found that my rear window on my 85 300 SD would not go up because the plastic bushing broke by mistake I ordered a sliding jaw # 126-720-00-42 i do not know where this even goes and is not what I need which is a bushing # 126-720-01-42. I realize now that I have to grind the old pin out that this bushing attaches to and then have to pin the new one in which probably requires removal of regulator or just use a clevis pin or proper bolt and bushing instead am I on the proper track with this repair?

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  #2  
Old 10-29-2013, 01:56 PM
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I have done this job 4 times already. No grinding. Just punch it dead center and use a drill press to drill out the old busing from the arm. Install the new bushing facing the correct direction. I use a 7mm socket under the plastic side of the bushing to brace the metal core of the bushing while I peen the other end. Prop the armature up and peen against an anvil or vice. Easy job. Don't let people make you think it is something difficult. It should take you no more than an hour to R&R the regulator. Add 30 minutes to grease the slide and for door panel dis/assembly.

Don't waste your time farting around with other "fixes" for the slide bushing. They don't last.
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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
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Old 11-06-2013, 08:08 AM
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regulator bushing 85 300

Took your advice Eaton took out regulator slide mechanism and also motor and ground and removed old pin and replaced and peened new one in. I would not remove the motor wires next time as when I replaced them got them mixed up and took awhile till I got them right again next time I would just take 3 bolts out holding motor to slide mechanism and just let it dangle in there with wires attached. Job took a couple of hrs. with taking door skin off and everything but next time could probably do it 30-45 min. now that I know what I am doing. Window works fine now. Its a shame that a $4.50 plastic part can cause so much trouble.
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Old 11-06-2013, 09:13 AM
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take pics and wires go back where they belong. I would never try bushing install without having regulator on the bench. 85SD has disconnect plugs. 84SD does not.

Buy a couple of extras when you have a free shipping order. You will be glad when the other side quits
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.
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  #5  
Old 11-06-2013, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eatont9999 View Post

Don't waste your time farting around with other "fixes" for the slide bushing. They don't last.
mine has held for 5+ years, but i can't remember what all i did. i know i used one of those lock nuts with the vinyl threads on one end and i think i used all stainless hardware. that window goes up and down a few times a day, since it's the only one in my car that moves. (ouch)
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1982 300sd from craigslist $800 greased on one tank with NO CONVERSION in the Hot Texas Sun. (currently dead & awaiting engine damage investigation and/or longblock swap)
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  #6  
Old 11-06-2013, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yuke View Post
Took your advice Eaton took out regulator slide mechanism and also motor and ground and removed old pin and replaced and peened new one in. I would not remove the motor wires next time as when I replaced them got them mixed up and took awhile till I got them right again next time I would just take 3 bolts out holding motor to slide mechanism and just let it dangle in there with wires attached. Job took a couple of hrs. with taking door skin off and everything but next time could probably do it 30-45 min. now that I know what I am doing. Window works fine now. Its a shame that a $4.50 plastic part can cause so much trouble.
I'm glad you got it fixed! I always take the regulator out so I can bring it into my garage where all my tools are. I use a drill press, so I can't exactly do that with the regulator in the car. At least it is a $4.50 part and not required to replace the whole regulator. Sure, it is a PITA but at least you don't have to worry about it again for long time. They did last 25-30 years. Can't say that for many other regulators.

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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
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