Cool! Methinks I'll be following your lead soon... the VP in my 'SD has 211k on it, so I need to replace it anyway.

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"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes

1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."

Looking forward to how you mount your pump and how loud it is.

I have that exact pump solid mounted to the inner fender and by golly the whole county knows when it kicks on. It's loud and a different tone from the engine, can clearly be heard above the straight piped exhausted and the usual diesel clatter.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

Thanks for this post. I've been kicking this idea around but you have a prettier solution than I've come up with. I'll only need it for shut off in the S-10 but I want it to be fool proof (given my level of "fool" that'll be tough).

What is that switch used on? Is it something I can scrounge at PnP? And is the VW pump Diesel-only or do lots of Vdubs have them?

Dan

If you only need a shutoff solution, this is gross overkill. Use a vacuum pump from a Benz that is used for locking and unlocking. Dirt cheap readily available and low enough draw you shouldn't even need a relay.

There are no vacuum switches used on these pumps in their native installation. There is a vacuum sensor that is tied into the ECU that activates a relay when needed. Same exact operation as the electronic controller in post 1.

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

For shutdown I'd guess the saab (and many other euro gasser) cruise control assist vacuum pump would be fine.

If someone wants I can yank one off a parts car and measure the vac.

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It should also be fine for the lock/unlock function as well as climate control...just not brakes.

In fact there's no reason why someone couldn't set up a two circuit system with the brakes having its own pump and isolated from the majority of the potential leaks.

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

Thanks for posting this. I'll be following your progress. Does the car you took the vac pump from have a vac reservoir and vac switch? Have you looked into whether removing the cam driven vac pump will cause any issues with what drives it (the timing device)?

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Yes for only the shutoff there is also a lot of electric Small Vacuum Pumps on eBay that are used for the Crusie Control. Lots of Ford ones available.
I did the below and it worked but I finally got around to fixing the leaks in the locking system and I left it in the Engine Compartment but disconnected it.
Electric Vacuum Pump for the Door Locks
Add On Electric Vacuum Pump for W123 Locking System

Unfotunately the Power Brake Booster needs; If there is such a thing the Vacuum Pump has to created enough Vacuum Volume/displacement to keep the Booster Functioning even after repeated Brake Pedal applications.
A tiny Vacuum Pump is not going to do that.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

211k? The VP in my 300sd has 321k and works fine....I'm not worried. I had it off around 280k and it was in perfect shape inside. We have several 617's with original pumps and high miles with 0 issues.

I think there's a lot of VP paranoia around here, how many have actually had one fail? I replaced the one on my OM601 with a new engine mounted one because the original had 250k on it and was the exposed bearing variety. The new one has closed bearings and has been working great for 6k so far...

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

where is this mounted in the VW application? does it have a special mount to cut down on noise?

I want one too

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There are some threads on this. I bought the Saab vacuum pump and two different vac cut off switches and a couple of relays. Used saab pump came with full mounting bracket assembly, including the rubber anti vibration bits.

It's on hold as I have the 300CD for sale, but since I have everything to do it I'm considering tossing it on the 240 tomorrow.

240's pump is fine I'm just looking at getting rid of that little bit of drag, and the potential bearing bomb. Since the 240 uses the pump only for brakes, it won't be running a lot. 300 uses it for climate, trans, seat backs, brakes....probably not the best first candidate.

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Eric, CPO, Submarines, retired.
Here's a sig line...
Mine: '68 Corvette LS1/4L65E, 83 240D, 2000 GMC 4x4, 08 FLSTC Anniv
Hers: '72 Corvette 454/4spd, '99 MB SLK, '93 Metro vert, 78 240D, '92 Silverado, '65 Fjord Rustang, '59 Fjord Fairlane, '17 Slingshot.

It's mounted on the drivers side toward the front right next to the ABS module. It has three rubber mounts for vibration isolation.

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

One of Our Members installed 2 New Vacuum Pumps and ruined both of the. The reason was the Timer Bushing was worn and when the Piston and Arm of the Vacuum Pump came down it evidently did not get stopped by the Timer Cam but hung on the Piston and cracked the Piston.

The Bushing issue seems to be the more common reason for the VP Failure on the 617.952.
There is no clear answer why the Bushing seems to were faster on some Cars then others. I suspect it has to do with the past owners Oil Change record.

Another issue one of our Members mentioned is that if you have been driving your Car a long time and have not fixed your Vacuum Leaks the Vacuum Pump is working more then it would if you leaks were cured. That might increase wear on the Timer Bushing.

I think the Oil Change issues is also why some people have a not of Timing Chain Strecth compared to others with the same milage.
But, thoses are guesses.

My question What in particular causes vacuum pump failure?
What in particular causes vacuum pump failure?

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel