Sorry - I meant the locking ring is loose. Yes, the injector actually threads into the pre-chamber (you're correct ol' great one!). I made a socket for tightening the locking ring, but I need a real one. There is plenty of fuel welling up around the locking ring with champagne like bubbles in it.

Just made another check - I started the engine (it's been sitting now for about 30 monutes) - it runs and idles nice and smooth, I did not apply throttle. I pulled the return hose from the temp fuel bottle and watched the flow (electric pump is shut off) - it flows evenly at a low rate. After about 2 minutes the engine starts to run rougher and rougher untill it finally dies. The entire time I continue to have an even flow from the return line. Does this show that my lift pump is working ok, or does the low flow rate mean it needs a rebuild. I don't have another working 603 to gauge this against.

It shows the lift pump is working basically.Or in itself is not causing what you are experiencing. Close off that return line to eliminate a totally failed pressure relief valve on the injection pump line causing issues as a test. No harm will be done on a factory lift pump . On an electric pump I am not as sure about damage to the electric pump.

Car may still have contaminated residual wvo components in the fuel system that could have hardened up with time. I doubt that the solvent flush you have been using would address animal fat residue properly if present. The lift pump on an ex veg oil burner may need cleaned out properly and the piston and bore inspected for damage as well or being partially gummed up.

At some point I would give that injection pump a good 24 hour solvent soak in place. Cars that have been on wvo may need a really good fuel system cleaning. The residual stuff turns into a form of glue with time.

I may be mistaken in this but it is my understanding that the injectors are not the same in the #14 head as they are in the #22 head.I was lead to believe that they did not even fit in!
One of the more experienced guys will be able to confirm or disprove this,i have yet to replace my #14 head so no real knowledge here.

__________________
Red Green "This is only temporary,Unless it works!"

97 E300D 157000 miles
87 300TD ?141k? miles

Correct. Vertical injectors, prechambers and lock rings aren't interchangeable with their inclined counterparts. There are different glow plug part numbers but they can be made to work in either application, not that they should. Vertical vs inclined is technically independent of the head. A #17 or later casting can host vertical injection. I don't think inclined prechambers will seal properly in a #14 head and there's no practical reason to find out.

Sixto
87 300D

Oh crap! I'll take one out and post a photo tomorrow.

Trouble is, these fit right in. The FSM details that heads with vertical injectors have slotted retaining rings, but heads with inclined injectors have a splined retaining ring (each with their own special tool). I have 4 heads here, one 14, a 17 and a pair of 22's. I'd have to check my 17 head, but all of the others appear to have inclined injectors yet all have the slotted retaining rings. I'm confused.

Could the wrong injector cause the symptoms I have listed here?

My 22 head came with the prechambers and retaining rings already installed (though the #6 ring is loose). No injectors were included, only the injector hard lines. Soooooo, is there a problem installing injectors from a 14 head in a 22 head?

Vertical -



Angled -



How can the injectors interchange? Maybe I read wrong or failed to confirm that the lock rings are not interchangeable. There's no way to run splined lock rings with vertical injectors since the injectors thread into slotted lock rings and splined lock rings have no internal threads. Will slotted lock rings work with inclined injectors and prechambers?

Sixto
87 300D

I do indeed have vertical injectors installed in slotted lock rings. I will pull one out tomorrow and feel with my finger to see if there are more threads inside.

Hi All!
I couldn't help but notice the statement by the OP:

We checked the IP tang alingment when I thought I had the cam out of phase - it shows up around 14 degrees ATDC. The cam was out of phase by 180 degrees, but that got fixed.

Does a 603 really run IP timing at 14 degrees After Top Dead Center? I'm not an expert on 603s, but if it does run 14 deg after TDC, its the first engine I've EVER run across that does. Have you actually set the IP start of delivery timing?

If the IP timing is supposed to be 14 deg Before TDC, that would explain the total lack of power.
I reserve the right to be wrong. But I just thought maybe I could help...
Cheers!
Chris

14* ATDC is the reference timing spec for the RIV method. An arbitrary tang aligns with an arbitrary hole in the IP case when the crank is at 14* ATDC. It has nothing to do with start of delivery which is closer to 24*BTDC. Why they couldn't use TDC as the reference timing spec is beyond me. Wouldn't it be nice to remove the cam and IP at the same time?

Sixto
87 300D

Aaaaa, I see! Thanks for the explanation sixto!

I'm paranoid now, this morning I'm going to recheck my tang alignment. I actually think the FSM states 15* ATDC.

Regarding my temp fuel tank tests, what should I expect to happen if I pinch shut the return line (if everything is working properly)?

I may be looking at pulling the IP for a good soaking and an absolute resetting of timing. As you know, I did fiddle with the timing a lot. I read the FSM for this procedure and it doesn't look too bad, I just need that locking tool.

I'm paranoid now, this morning I'm going to recheck my tang alignment. I actually think the FSM states 15* ATDC.

Regarding my temp fuel tank tests, what should I expect to happen if I pinch shut the return line (if everything is working properly)?

I may be looking at pulling the IP for a good soaking and an absolute resetting of timing. As you know, I did fiddle with the timing a lot. I read the FSM for this procedure and it doesn't look too bad, I just need that locking tool.

If you shut off the return line. Fuel supply pressure in the injection pump could go higher. There is a remote chance that the relief valve is staying open. This test eliminates it as a probable suspect is all.

If relief valve is open your symptoms are possible. If the relief valve is normal there will be essentially no difference. Other than it proves your lift pump was providing enough pressure to open the relief valve already.

The important thing is that the way the lift pump works there is no possibility of damaging anything. The lift pump generates a certain pressure then basically idles there. This is not rocket science.

Besides the extensive sitting problem with possible wvo contaminates it is more likely that it is something you have done. This based on the engine was running well prior to the head change.

We have all experienced this in our lives in many ways. I call it dealing with the most obvious first. Just this week I had to go over some extensive electrical wiring to find what I had done wrong. Basically it involved just double checking everything in those circuits again till I found my misteak. When I found it I could only assume my mind was on something else when I wired it.

Make sure your exhaust gas recirculation EGR is not wide open all the time as well. Or opening up when it should not be. Essentially I expect whatever the difficulty is it is probably pretty minor in nature at this point.