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  #1  
Old 01-02-2014, 03:33 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Cecil county, MD
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300SD U JOINT replace advice

Gentleman

This is my first post but have belonged to BW
for seven years. My question pertains a to
The replacement part # for the the u joint by
The center bearing. In the process in restoring
My 300SD's suspension and decided the driveshaft
Needing refreshing. Got it out ok, but MB does
Not carry a part #. Anyone done this u joint on a 126?
And where did you get it?
Any info
Greatly appreciated. Great info and site BTW!!
Les

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  #2  
Old 01-02-2014, 04:16 PM
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Location: West of Ft. Worth. TX
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This thread should answer most of your questions. When I did mine, I found the most difficult part was getting the stakes/crimps sufficient enough to hold the new u-joint in place.

Drive Shaft U-Joint Is Staked/Crimped In Place, Now What To Do?

Be sure to mark everything real well to maintain balance of the shaft pieces.
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84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )
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  #3  
Old 01-02-2014, 05:31 PM
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Location: Cecil county, MD
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thanks Sam!
Just ordered one from parts train. It looks like it has c-clips on the inside. Will post my findings. Hope it works
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  #4  
Old 01-02-2014, 07:46 PM
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Centering of the u joint is critical.

The inner portion of the yoke might not be machined where the clips would ride, this can allow the bearing caps to be shifted to one side. The shifting will either allow the shaft to spin off center or walk back and forth if the caps are too far apart.
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  #5  
Old 01-03-2014, 11:35 PM
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Welcome to the Forum Les. Iam signed up on BW, but not over there much.

I had the U-Joint replaced on the 240D, I took it to a Drive line shop that does MB shafts. They machined out the Stakes, and used a Mustang U-Joint with the "C" clips. Replaced the center support bearing and the Bushing in both ends of the shafts for $300.

I also had them do the 300D when I put in the 4-spd. Shorten the shaft, U-joint, center support and end bushings for the same price.

They are the experts, and I wanted it done right.
I`ve done U-joints with the clips, but not messing with the MB one.

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #6  
Old 01-04-2014, 08:46 AM
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85 300D 4spd+tow+h4
 
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Did any of you really need new u joints? Out of all the high mileage benzes I have owned (7 now?), none have needed u joints.
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  #7  
Old 01-04-2014, 08:49 AM
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REALLY???
of the 50 or so I've gone through, EVERYSINGLEONE has had a tight spot in the motion of the u-joint. none have been loose or damaged, but ALL have been stiff to rotate all the way through their motion. that to me could show a vibration at some point.
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  #8  
Old 01-04-2014, 09:59 AM
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All of the one`s I have pulled in the yards as well as my own, have had that notchy feel moving the joint.

Both of the joints I had replaced, had a slight looseness in the joint. moving it by hand (even when removed from the vehicle) I could feel the joint move. even though the Drive Shaft is mounted solid on both ends and in the center, there will be some vibrations even though small that the joint wears in one small area.

As the center support bearing rubber piece ages and sags a bit, the joint will have a bit more of a work out.

Charlie
__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #9  
Old 01-04-2014, 10:00 AM
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For this type of setup, u joints don't flex much in operation. This reduces the wear area to a small portion of the journal. Also, grease tends to squeeze out of the roller contact area further increasing wear.

If the drive shaft isn't removed, everything will continue to work smoothly, if the drive shaft is removed and replaced, it is nearly impossible to get it back to the original location. The joint is now operating in a different location and can vibrate / buzz.

I'd say it is pretty rare that these joints fail in the traditional sense of losing all grease, grinding the rollers to dust then becoming loose since flexing is low and they are protected from weather.
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  #10  
Old 01-04-2014, 10:08 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Cecil county, MD
Posts: 40
I guess I am victim of over maintenance, per say.
Saw Kent's video on ************** on the drivetrain inspect and noted him saying of knotching in the u joint. Mine was slightly doing this, so a replacement was in order. Did not know it was unavailable via MB, however the whole front section for 585$ is.
When thinking about it, The drive shaft does not flex much with exception to engine movement. These u joints have a plastic pin in the center of each needle bearing, or it may be metal. Thus, maybe one could remove to grease with a needle bit?. And, no clips "c" or cir clips but a permanent yoke score. I was able to get it out okay, just hope the new one that is coming in the mail will work. It shows inner c clips.
I have done many u joints having serviced Broncos and trucks/cars alike. I will post my findings with pics. HAs anyone done this with an aftermarket u joint with inner clips not having to rebalance, successfully? Worse comes to worse, Ill have to seek a driveshaft shop.
The ***** is, I already have the center bearing on and new boot.

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