If you just bought this NEW 200k mile car what maintenance would you be doing? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

yvairguy · #1 01-08-2014, 11:47 PM

I did some searching and can't really find what i am looking for. I have surfed into a few things that i have done like cleaning the banjo bolt on the intake manifold, of course all filters and fluids, checked brakes and will be flushing the fluid soon.

anyway is there a "maintenance punch list" anywhere of everything you should do or check on these cars, stuff like i didn't even know there was a filter for the power steering pump until it turned up when i was reading about something else. I mean short of RnR on ever nut and bolt is there a list of things you would check or do on one of these cars before you gave it to your daughter or wife to drive?

uberwasser · #2 01-09-2014, 12:05 AM

If unknown maintenance records, assume the following needs to be done...

Most of it will be checking things, only replacing if needed. Definitely change all fluids thouigh.

Oil change
Coolant change to MBZ or Zerex G-05 coolant
Power steering fluid and filter change
Brake flush with new fluid, check lines and pads
Transmission fluid and filter change
New fuel filters
Pull and clean or replace tank strainer
Pull and test glow plugs with direct 12v power, check glow fuse and function of relay
Test for vacuum pump output with vacuum gauge
Replace any non-copper fuses with copper ones
Adjust valves, replace valve cover gasket while you're at it
Replace primer pump if it has the old style with the white plastic top
Change diff fluid
Lube throttle linkages
Check flex discs for any cracking, replace if needed
Check axle boots for splits/leaks
Check the various fuel lines and injector return lines for leaks
Check oil cooler lines for wetness, drips
Check transmission cooler lines for same
Check belts
Test alternator output with multimeter
Verify good motor mounts, motor shocks
Check front suspension and steering components for excess play
Check wheel bearings for play

Some additional items I did personally when I bought my car as preventative maintenance:

Replaced water pump
Replaced original radiator and upper and lower hoses

I think that covers a lot of the items that can either lead to them being stranded or lead to vehicle or engine damage.

Marshall Welch · #3 01-09-2014, 12:51 AM

I forgot that you were going to do the fluids, but I'll leave that in anyhow. Sorry if redundant with above reply, better too much than too little information. I think you'll enjoy working on these cars.

Condensed Sticky Thread > Do It Yourself Articles - Mercedes Vehicles
A wealth of information here.

Condensed Sticky Thread > Mercedes Factory Service Manuals > Model 123 > Disk 2 > Select your model/year > Maintenance Manual > Maintenance Manual Index

The Maintenance System Sheet is a useful checklist, but on the Startek info website link appeared broken. Basically the same checklist should be in the Owner's Manual for your car.

Would start there, on the maintenance manual index.

If you have service records, would determine when each of ALL fluids were changed- engine oil, power steering fluid (can use ATF), transmission, differential, brake fluid, COOLANT. Get those done if they are due or there is any doubt.

I'm big on engine cooling system, I'm biased because it was neglected in my car, and still has rust, despite several flushes with de-rusting per FSM. When was thermostat last changed? Mercedes recommends changing it every other coolant change, which should be done at least every 3 years, and I think a lot of us change the coolant more frequently than that.

A few things to get you started; these are covered in the Maintenance Manual:

Look under the hood for: coolant leaks, check condition of cooling system/heater hoses, clamps; check the fuel return lines running between the injectors for leakage- if the cloth braiding is soaked with fuel, they probably need replacement. Biodiesel seems to accelerate their demise. Biodiesel is now added to petroleum diesel fuel, up to 5%, at least where I live. Clean and lube the throttle linkage joints- service manual/owner's manual says use hydraulic fluid (ATF).

Would check brake pad thickness, inspect drive train, including drive shaft flex disks, exhaust system. The flexible fuel supply and return lines connecting at bottom of the fuel tank underneath car might not have ever been replaced, and can start to leak. See biodiesel above.

Clean the retractable antenna regularly! I think there is an active thread on this topic. Some people start with Windex, then alcohol, then lubricate with the Hirschmann lube wipes, or a tiny amount of ATF. I usually clean with brake parts cleaner sprayed on a paper towel, followed by wiping on thin coat of 3M silicone lubricant. Hirschmann makes wipes with the lube on it; it is rumored to be silicone-based, but don't necessarily believe everything you read on the internet.

Glow plugs ! Have they ever been changed? Does the glow plug light come on when you turn on the ignition? If not, that's a sign that there are probably two bad glow plugs. There are tutorials online on how to check the glow plug system. It's not that hard, and something you can learn to do yourself. If the car fires right up in winter, when the engine is cold, the glow plugs are probably OK, at least for the time being.

Fuses - would probably replace, including the 80A fuse in the glow plug relay- it's the metal strip that screws down with a Phillips head screw on each end. Glow plug relay should be on the inside of the left (driver side) front fender/wheel well in the engine compartment. It's a taller than wide black box that has a top that lifts off.

Startek info.com has an index of Mercedes approved fluids- coolant, engine oils, transmission, differential fluids, etc. For coolant, I think it's fair to say that most of us think you should use either the Genuine Mercedes coolant, or Zerex G-05.

You can purchase the Factory Service Manual CD set of 2 from MB USA for ~$20.00, then install it on your computer, and there is an indexing program you can download- it's much easier and faster to access it from a hard drive than directly from the CDs.

Edit to add: check voltage regulator on the alternator, and replace it if the brushes are worn down. The voltage regulator is accessed from the rear of the alternator. There are tutorials on how to do this.

yvairguy · #4 01-09-2014, 12:57 AM

Well his "complete maintenance records" leave off about 15k before i bought it judging by the window sticker for the last oil change. also the odometer stopped working not long after i bought it so not sure if it is an on again and off again odometer.... so i figure that last maybe 15 to 25k are kind of a crap shoot.

I was thinking about installing an hour meter, only because i already have one, and maybe go by hours on the clock for the maintenance from here on out.

yvairguy · #5 01-09-2014, 01:04 AM

2 bucks for the factory service manuals??? did i see that right?

sixto · #6 01-09-2014, 01:05 AM

x2 but first I'd check service records if available. I'm not going to service a transmission that was properly serviced 5K miles ago. Then I'll add a check of the air filter and servicing the SLS if it's a TD. You can start with the maintenance schedule in the owner manual and the get yourself a copy of the maintenance volume of the FSM. Check your car using the owner manual page by page.

Check for fluid leaks and cabin leaks as you get to know the car. Replace sticky door checks. Lube door, hood and hatch hinges. Clean and lube the sunroof. Beyond the suspension, look for rubber and plastic bits beyond their prime (hoses, vacuum lines and connectors, weatherstrips, snubbers, etc.). If it's not a native Californian, check for rust. Replace that 30 year old spare!

Sixto
87 300D

yvairguy · #7 01-09-2014, 01:32 AM

yep California car, I had the floor and plastic and lots of trim off today and there are some repairs that were done very well that i doubt anyone would ever notice other than the fact that the paint gives you some clues. My thought now is the guy might have been a drinker and or blind and drove by braille.

all good suggestions, i'm making a list that should keep me busy for a few days on this thing, i think i can get some lift time at a friends shop so that's one of the reasons i want to kind of have a list of everything to check ahead of time.

yvairguy · #8 01-09-2014, 01:34 AM

oh and it was also a desert car so the plus side is not one speck of rust, downside i will sooner or later be replacing most if not all the rubber parts on the car

sixto · #9 01-09-2014, 02:15 AM

$150 for a PPI is probably a good investment for someone so diligent.

Sixto
87 300D

barry12345 · #10 01-09-2014, 02:27 PM

As a general rule if the car is going in to daily service check over everything you can. Up on a lift is a good place to start.

Almost for certain at least a valve adjustment check should be included. Plus the stretch condition of the timing chain and slider. The trip up on the lift should be some indication if the car was generally kept up or just driven.

Marshall Welch · #11 01-10-2014, 02:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yvairguy

2 bucks for the factory service manuals??? did i see that right?

Sorry, that was a typo - it's $20. I corrected it.

jay_bob · #12 01-10-2014, 02:54 PM

One more item, relevant only to the OM60x powered cars (mid 80s and up 124/126/201/210)
- Check and replace if needed the belt, belt tensioner lever, shock, and spring.