Cruise control no bueno. HELP - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

yvairguy · #16 02-01-2014, 03:43 PM

you know i fixed this thing and i was thinking, what i really need is an oscilloscope so i can really bench test this thing and see what else might be marginal, i have been away from stuff like this for awhile and holy smoke this stuff has gotten so much cheaper, pocket Oscope for around 100 bucks, and some of the PC based stuff crazy cheap

JamesDean · #17 02-01-2014, 05:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yvairguy

Replaced the capacitors and bench tested the pulled parts, one bad capacitor in the bunch. i had the glove box out and there is another nice little aluminum box that says "temperature control unit" or something like that.......... wondering if it needs some help there too, if that would help the erratic nature of the system.

Oh and the cruse control works awesome, however the speedometer just started hopping at low speeds, like below 5 MPH so i guess a speedo cable may be in my future too....

Yep! There's a few caps in the temperature regulator as well:
000 822 09 03 - 126 First Generation Temp. Regulator - Imgur

JamesDean · #18 02-01-2014, 05:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yvairguy

you know i fixed this thing and i was thinking, what i really need is an oscilloscope so i can really bench test this thing and see what else might be marginal, i have been away from stuff like this for awhile and holy smoke this stuff has gotten so much cheaper, pocket Oscope for around 100 bucks, and some of the PC based stuff crazy cheap

I bought a Rigol DS1052E scope for like $300 does quite well for what I do with my repair work and stuff around the car/house/etc.

Its not like what we have up at work though...

yvairguy · #19 02-01-2014, 06:56 PM

Yep most of the stuff i remember was HP and tektronix. but that was 20 years ago, amber and green CTR's, if i remember right i had one that had colors for the 4 channels but it actually wasn't a very good scope it really was only good for 2 channels, funny how this stuff is starting to seeeeeep back into my memory.

yvairguy · #20 02-01-2014, 07:00 PM

Oh and i have come to the conclusion that the old girl is just barn sour, i used it to run about 40 miles worked awesome, used it on 2 little about 10 miles stops on the way back worked great, was heading back home and it just started running away, i don't don't mind tinkering and all but i don't think i have the patients to tweak this thing every 70 miles :/

JamesDean · #21 02-01-2014, 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yvairguy

Oh and i have come to the conclusion that the old girl is just barn sour, i used it to run about 40 miles worked awesome, used it on 2 little about 10 miles stops on the way back worked great, was heading back home and it just started running away, i don't don't mind tinkering and all but i don't think i have the patients to tweak this thing every 70 miles :/

Are you talking about the cruise control system? If you'd like, I'd be happy to go over your amplifier and actuator. I offer free testing.

Just let me know!

JamesDean · #22 02-01-2014, 10:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yvairguy

Yep most of the stuff i remember was HP and tektronix. but that was 20 years ago, amber and green CTR's, if i remember right i had one that had colors for the 4 channels but it actually wasn't a very good scope it really was only good for 2 channels, funny how this stuff is starting to seeeeeep back into my memory.

The Tektronix we got are the first new scopes the department has bought in 15 years or so. Before that they had some LeCroy 4 channelers, some Fluke ones too. New tech is very impressive.

yvairguy · #23 02-02-2014, 02:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamesDean

Are you talking about the cruise control system? If you'd like, I'd be happy to go over your amplifier and actuator. I offer free testing.

Just let me know!

Yep it wouldn't hold speed on the way home it started running away. I appreciate that but I will probably take another stab at it, I'm not the type to give up easily

JamesDean · #24 02-02-2014, 02:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yvairguy

Yep it wouldn't hold speed on the way home it started running away. I appreciate that but I will probably take another stab at it, I'm not the type to give up easily

Best advice I could give you is to replace the electrolytic caps and carefully reflow every joint. I knows it a pain but its really the best way to make sure all are good. Also be sure to strip off the conformal coating, soldering through it makes the job way harder and messier.

mannys9130 · #25 02-02-2014, 03:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamesDean

I had the same problem on my 300D. When I first bought it the cruise didn't work. I refreshed the amplifier and it was really uneven and liked to surge up and down. I swapped the actuator and that made no difference. I bought and installed a new speedometer cable and that changed everything.

About 40,000 miles later that actuator started to get really bad though, I swapped back to the original unit that came with the car and all is good now.

If you've got poor speed control and the amplifier hasn't been touched, that's probably the first thing I would do.

I offer free actuator testing too so you can just send that in if its easy to access. The m102/3 and om606 are the more difficult motors. The 603 might be a little more difficult too. I've never worked on a 601/603 so I can't say.

The OM601 in the 190D is REALLY easy to remove the actuator. It is mounted on the side of the cylinder head above the exhaust manifold. A bunch of 10mm bolts hold it on.

I actually removed my cruise actuator. I took it off for a few reasons. The first is, I don't ever use it. I feel uncomfortable when I take my foot of the gas and the car keeps going.

My car is also a 5 speed, so I just shiver at the idea of having cruise. The second is I am jumping at every opportunity to save weight. I have removed the spare tire (old and flat) and the jack (which will kill you) as well as the windshield washer reservoir because I need to revamp it with a new nozzle and new tubes. I thought about taking the rear seat out, but I couldn't live with that big of an eye sore! The third is, it really cleans up the look of the engine bay and opens up a lot of empty space. That came in handy when I revamped the cooling system and had to remove the block drain.

I have the actuator packaged up on the parts shelf if I ever want to reinstall it or if I sell the car.

https://i1.ytimg.com/vi/7BfErJ3LZkQ/hqdefault.jpg

yvairguy · #26 02-02-2014, 03:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamesDean

Best advice I could give you is to replace the electrolytic caps and carefully reflow every joint. I knows it a pain but its really the best way to make sure all are good. Also be sure to strip off the conformal coating, soldering through it makes the job way harder and messier.

Yep i got it cleaned up, my solder joints are pretty good and the rest of the board did look good but you never know, especially not being able to test it any way other than sticking it back in the car. I use to do a lot of soldering and assembly back in the day for stuff that was actually mounted in battle tanks so my soldering skills are still pretty good. a lot of what we did was so low in production that everything was hand populated, and hand soldered. Back in the day it also seemed that a high percentage of the flow soldered boards that we DID have built for us had to be reworked. Really one of the new parts might have even failed...