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  #1  
Old 02-01-2014, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yvairguy View Post
Replaced the capacitors and bench tested the pulled parts, one bad capacitor in the bunch. i had the glove box out and there is another nice little aluminum box that says "temperature control unit" or something like that.......... wondering if it needs some help there too, if that would help the erratic nature of the system.

Oh and the cruse control works awesome, however the speedometer just started hopping at low speeds, like below 5 MPH so i guess a speedo cable may be in my future too....
Yep! There's a few caps in the temperature regulator as well:
000 822 09 03 - 126 First Generation Temp. Regulator - Imgur
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89 420SEL 210k
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  #2  
Old 02-01-2014, 03:43 PM
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you know i fixed this thing and i was thinking, what i really need is an oscilloscope so i can really bench test this thing and see what else might be marginal, i have been away from stuff like this for awhile and holy smoke this stuff has gotten so much cheaper, pocket Oscope for around 100 bucks, and some of the PC based stuff crazy cheap
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  #3  
Old 02-01-2014, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yvairguy View Post
you know i fixed this thing and i was thinking, what i really need is an oscilloscope so i can really bench test this thing and see what else might be marginal, i have been away from stuff like this for awhile and holy smoke this stuff has gotten so much cheaper, pocket Oscope for around 100 bucks, and some of the PC based stuff crazy cheap
I bought a Rigol DS1052E scope for like $300 does quite well for what I do with my repair work and stuff around the car/house/etc.


Its not like what we have up at work though...
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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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  #4  
Old 02-01-2014, 06:56 PM
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Yep most of the stuff i remember was HP and tektronix. but that was 20 years ago, amber and green CTR's, if i remember right i had one that had colors for the 4 channels but it actually wasn't a very good scope it really was only good for 2 channels, funny how this stuff is starting to seeeeeep back into my memory.
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  #5  
Old 02-01-2014, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by yvairguy View Post
Yep most of the stuff i remember was HP and tektronix. but that was 20 years ago, amber and green CTR's, if i remember right i had one that had colors for the 4 channels but it actually wasn't a very good scope it really was only good for 2 channels, funny how this stuff is starting to seeeeeep back into my memory.
The Tektronix we got are the first new scopes the department has bought in 15 years or so. Before that they had some LeCroy 4 channelers, some Fluke ones too. New tech is very impressive.
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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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  #6  
Old 02-01-2014, 07:00 PM
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Oh and i have come to the conclusion that the old girl is just barn sour, i used it to run about 40 miles worked awesome, used it on 2 little about 10 miles stops on the way back worked great, was heading back home and it just started running away, i don't don't mind tinkering and all but i don't think i have the patients to tweak this thing every 70 miles :/
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  #7  
Old 02-01-2014, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by yvairguy View Post
Oh and i have come to the conclusion that the old girl is just barn sour, i used it to run about 40 miles worked awesome, used it on 2 little about 10 miles stops on the way back worked great, was heading back home and it just started running away, i don't don't mind tinkering and all but i don't think i have the patients to tweak this thing every 70 miles :/
Are you talking about the cruise control system? If you'd like, I'd be happy to go over your amplifier and actuator. I offer free testing.

Just let me know!
__________________
Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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  #8  
Old 02-02-2014, 02:09 AM
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Originally Posted by JamesDean View Post
Are you talking about the cruise control system? If you'd like, I'd be happy to go over your amplifier and actuator. I offer free testing.

Just let me know!
Yep it wouldn't hold speed on the way home it started running away. I appreciate that but I will probably take another stab at it, I'm not the type to give up easily
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  #9  
Old 02-02-2014, 02:55 AM
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Originally Posted by yvairguy View Post
Yep it wouldn't hold speed on the way home it started running away. I appreciate that but I will probably take another stab at it, I'm not the type to give up easily
Best advice I could give you is to replace the electrolytic caps and carefully reflow every joint. I knows it a pain but its really the best way to make sure all are good. Also be sure to strip off the conformal coating, soldering through it makes the job way harder and messier.
__________________
Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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  #10  
Old 02-02-2014, 03:45 AM
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Originally Posted by JamesDean View Post
Best advice I could give you is to replace the electrolytic caps and carefully reflow every joint. I knows it a pain but its really the best way to make sure all are good. Also be sure to strip off the conformal coating, soldering through it makes the job way harder and messier.
Yep i got it cleaned up, my solder joints are pretty good and the rest of the board did look good but you never know, especially not being able to test it any way other than sticking it back in the car. I use to do a lot of soldering and assembly back in the day for stuff that was actually mounted in battle tanks so my soldering skills are still pretty good. a lot of what we did was so low in production that everything was hand populated, and hand soldered. Back in the day it also seemed that a high percentage of the flow soldered boards that we DID have built for us had to be reworked. Really one of the new parts might have even failed...
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