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#1
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Unfortunately I can't put competitors links on here but if you type in mbpartsworld it should pop up their site in google. Are you able to use the EPC? That is the best place for diagrams...plus its free....
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#2
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Alright...alright...remember when I said the 78 is getting jealous? This is proof!!
I wanted to toss the towel at the car today....I wanted to get the power steering pump sealed, installed, radiator, hoses, fans and finish some misc electrical wrap under the hood...but...all that has to wait now... First the seal wasn't correct for the pump shaft....I got the one that said for zf pump....well its to big....searching around I think I found the correct one part number 0189976047, if I can get a confirmation it would be fantastic.... ![]() ![]() So then I then I move to do some hopefully final degreaseing....which was on the driveshaft and pulley.....I then finish up there and go to install the balancer and pulley...what the? Wrong bolts errrrrrrrrrrr! I ordered the ones Squiggle Dog posted on his thread I mention a few pages back....guess they are not the same from a turbo to non turbo....grrrrrr again! Anyone know if I can just go pick up 10.9 grade allen bolts at the local hardware store to replace them with? I don't really want to order 20$ more worth of special mb bolts... ![]() Then the other day I shot the alternator with brake cleaner to attempt to remove more oil splatter from it....Well today it would barely turn! Since it is a lifetime one and non original...I couldn't get the damn screws they used out to take it apart....very upsetting...I then go and grab the 3 in 1 oil and attempt to get to the bearings with it....wouldn't work...Then at the very last moment...it unfroze and began to spin again...well thank you lol I didn't want to go argue for a replacement on top of all this work... ![]() Well I guess the good news is that I got the drive line degresed and all the old parts off it. And thankfully I do have the right center bearing! I wanted to save the old one but couldn't get the center support off it...Pretty much destroyed that... ![]() My friend from down the street came by and we got to shoot the crap about these cars...I love that I am not the only one madly in love and denial about these cars. He kept telling me that I did an excellent job on cleaning the engine, and all the problems he is having with his cars...Always makes one feel better when they are not alone...He has and also agrees, you need a pair of these cars....as that weekend repair will always take a month... Well popped a pill, time for a hot bath....well till the neighbor calls the cops again because I am being to loud in the shower....actually complained once because our steps squeak to much....oh the fun of living next to a 5yo child...:p
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#3
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Squiggle Dog has a W116. If you used a part number for your 123 that he used for his 116, I am not surprised at all that it didn't fit.
Brake cleaner is a powerful degreaser. You "degreased" the bearings inside which is why it wouldn't turn. I really hope the brake cleaner didn't melt the enamel off the windings. That would suck if the coils are shorted inside... That alternator will probably fail in the very near future. Not a good idea to have sprayed it. BTW, if you think carburetor cleaner is bad you should avoid brake cleaner too. Just as "toxic" as carb cleaner.
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'84 190D 2.2 5MT (Red/Palomino) Current car. Love it! '85 190D 2.2 Auto *Cali* (Blue/Blue) *sold* http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/302601.png http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/sideview.png |
#4
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Sorry I know what I did, and what caused it....hints to why I tried to open it... Yep I know it will, probably not because of this but because of the voltage regulator brushes being worn....If I get 6mo/year out of it...I'll be happy....I have a digital voltage gauge wired into the car to keep an eye on voltage....Please don't start talking amps, discharge or other odd electrical crap...I am not getting into it... I am not getting into this....
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#5
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" I am not getting into this.... "
Too late Jason ; That ship sailed a while back ![]() I* enbjoy reading your similar struggles as mine , I think it's a good thing overall and IMO there's NO ' denial ' about it ~ I'm keeny aware I could go buy a $1,500 prius P.O.C. and drive it until it died then repeat . Life's too short to compromise on what one drives .
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-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#6
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Okay! Six new new bolts ordered! Part number 000912008072 Also got two more sway bar bushings, and fingers crossed right seal for the power steering pump seal....
I just see how I mixed up the part numbers for the bolts. Back on post 398, I listed the original bolt part number but it being NLA and the substitute the ones squiqqledog posted. I should have double checked before ordering, I see on the epc there are three part numbers for the correct bolts and two are NLA but the middle part number is still available....So that is how I messed that up, to many "replaced by" part numbers. I also went back and looked at the w116 photos he posted, I see the vibration damper is thinner on the w116...hints to why the bolts I ordered are two short..... I did get more parts in today! Always nice to get new parts in the mail...Ah the control arms are really nice! Can't wait to see how the ride improves with new arms...Oh and that two hammer trick to remove the ball joint better work! lol Getting ready to pick a friend up in Utah tomorrow and then go to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon...Will be a fun day with the 78...So she better! be happy that she gets to go to the canyon ![]() ![]()
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#7
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Woo HOOOO More parts! I think I can get my driveline installed again!
![]() ![]() Pressing the bearing into the carrier bearing was a PITA! I had thought I could simply push it in but not the case. I used a pair pliers, still not good enough, I then had the bright idea after I bent the carrier to use the old bearing to press it in...DUH moment! I got it in thought and fixed my mistakes....I'll be adding to my box of tools now, for future replacement.... I ordered a Mercedes Genuine Gasket for the fuel tank neck....Hoping this one doesn't melt like the cheapie one I had before... Going outside now to get a few things installed to make me feel as though I am accomplishing things... Did get two nice brand new tires for the 78 today too!! I still need six more lol but ohhhh new tires are so nice! We made a plan to try and get two new tires every paycheck...I got three season tires for 125$ mounted...pretty good in my book!
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#8
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Well I got the driveshaft in yesterday. Amazing how easy things go together...Just the time it takes to put it all together right...UGH!
![]() ![]() I also managed to tidy up the engine bay a bit, tied wires down, replace a heater hose, cleaned the spiders n corrosion out of the glow plug relay, clean a few connectors and try to find the electrical tape again... I opted not to rebuild the exhaust hanger, I undid it abit and all the mounts were still good so I will save the kit for the 78 which I know needs it badly.... I finally got the jack stands out from out of the rear! And moved to the front...Know how hard it is to change from a car ramp to a jack stand? UGH! No oil, no radiator and so I couldn't just drive it down... Got the front tires off and the UCA's off....I think they are just fine...What do you think? ![]() ![]() ![]() Tomorrow after coffee n pain pill I will put the new torsion/sway bar bushing on the firewall, clean the ends of the bar and install the arms....Still waiting on two bushings so can't button this up yet... Want to install the after market cruise control too at some point..
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#9
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Looking mighty good! .
Can you write up info on the sway bar bushings ? . One of my cars has soft ones and I'd like to replace them , with Polyurethane if possible . TIA ,
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-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#10
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I can try but the best is the FSM Section on replacing the Torsion Bar. I don't remove the booster, it takes more time to get a wrench in their but its possible. Pretty much, its just keep weight off the front tires, remove battery tray and then the U bracket that holds the bushing/bearing onto the torsion bar, add some dish soap, place the bushing over the torsion bar and then tighten. The one under the booster is the same. http://mb.bolinko.org/wis/w123/CD02/Chassis/32-300.pdf
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#11
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Lets see all of today was mainly trying to get the new parts installed on the front end...
First I had to relocate the black widows... ![]() Next it was time to remove the torsion/sway bar bearings/bushings on the firewall. I've learned that my tricks of removing the bushing and not the brake booster was a bit more difficult on this one and with these bushings. My clutch line was really in the way. But I did it! I love the lets look at how bad these bushings are and the new ones. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Got dark and my friend down the street stopped by to see what I was up too...and compare w123 problems. Its dark now, tomorrow I will finish torquing everything to spec.
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#12
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Lets see today, a little bit of wrap up and got the new oil pan in...
![]() First I had to clean out the pine needles out of the oil screen... Took awhile to get all the crap out of the oil screen, who knows how much ran out with the water/cleaner... ![]() ![]() Yep there are also a few seeds in there! ![]() Had to take a picture of the the new control arms! Can barely push the front of the car down now...So nice to have new rubber! FYI...I really really and again REALLY hate this spray on under coating some previous owner had sprayed on EVERYTHING under the car.... Also checked the valves again, had one tight intake valve...Also filed down all the towers that the studs run through to bolt down the valve cover...They were all worn all crazy from over tightening of the valve cover over all these years...
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#13
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Impressive work , i'm all eyes .
Congratulation ! |
#14
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Thanx ! .
Those old bushings looked like toast . Do you have to remove the coil springs ? . I'm sure these are kaput on my Coupe as I hear the occasional clunk sound . RE : the oil screen : what else was in there ? looks weird .
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-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#15
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Quote:
The spring only needs to be removed to do the lower control arm bushings. You need a spring compressor for that...I've heard the rear's can be removed with out a compressor, but the fronts can kill you... That clunk, could also mean your torsion bar/sway bar end has broken off. It is very common as the water/salt gathers there and rusts out the end. Could also be the UCA, I was hearing a squeak from the passenger side before all these, I had just played it off as being oil sprayed onto the suspension from the front main seal. Now I am curious if it was caused by the UCA... Those pics of the debris is all I could gather, who knows what else fell out during the wash. I believe, totally theory here, that all the debris is from the oil filters as I have read they use raw cotton with all sorts of stuff in it.. What's inside that MANN oil filter? Taking it to bits...
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