GregMN's 1991 W126 350SDL Has A New Home - Page 9 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ROLLGUY · #**121** 09-11-2019, 11:16 PM

I have a complete 603 for sale if you end up needing it. Not sure what head is on it, but I will check......Rich

Squiggle Dog · #**122** 09-11-2019, 11:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

I have a complete 603 for sale if you end up needing it. Not sure what head is on it, but I will check......Rich

Thanks! It's good to have options, though I already did so much work to this one.

vwnate1 · #**123** 09-12-2019, 01:38 PM

And therein lies the rub :

He's hobbled by unrealistic financial constraints .

Squiggle Dog · #**124** 09-12-2019, 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vwnate1

And therein lies the rub :

He's hobbled by unrealistic financial constraints .

Yes, the head issue will likely require several hundreds of dollars in repairs, but there isn't really any money to do them. Today I discovered that the timing chain has 6 degrees of stretch in it. Only 3 degrees is permissible, and after 10 degrees the valves hit the pistons. Needing to replace the timing chain is going to add to the expense.

I should have the head off tomorrow, so I can see if it needs to be replaced. I have a line on some replacements, but once again, am working under very tight financial constraints. I tested the glow plugs, and they are all working.

vwnate1 · #**125** 09-12-2019, 11:08 PM

Possibly related, not always an age thing : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGvrmltfMrA&feature=youtu.be

83w126 · #**126** 09-13-2019, 04:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Squiggle Dog

Yes, the head issue will likely require several hundreds of dollars in repairs, but there isn't really any money to do them. Today I discovered that the timing chain has 6 degrees of stretch in it. Only 3 degrees is permissible, and after 10 degrees the valves hit the pistons. Needing to replace the timing chain is going to add to the expense.

I should have the head off tomorrow, so I can see if it needs to be replaced. I have a line on some replacements, but once again, am working under very tight financial constraints. I tested the glow plugs, and they are all working.

I would sell the #18 head I have for $350 plus cost of shipping and packing materials, it sounds like finding a whole different car might be cheaper at this point though. Replacing the head and timing chain is probably going to be closer to $1000 than $200.

Squiggle Dog · #**127** 09-13-2019, 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 83w126

I would sell the #18 head I have for $350 plus cost of shipping and packing materials, it sounds like finding a whole different car might be cheaper at this point though. Replacing the head and timing chain is probably going to be closer to $1000 than $200.

That's a good price, though I'll have to see if it can be done. I don't know about getting a whole different car, unless someone will buy this one... but any other car that is purchased is going to need money put into it, too. Even if we could find another car for under $1,000, what kind of quality could one expect for the price? It would probably be neglected, have bald tires, and leak oil all over the place, and then still need the same amount of money put into it each month.

That's the thing--any old car is going to be expensive to repair and maintain. I factor this in with my own car, which is why I only own one car, other than the fintail station wagon and a donor sedan, but that's on the back burner for someday when I have an actual income.

My roommate is just stretched too thin right now because his hours got cut at work, our house and utilities are very expensive, I'm not working so I can work on his cars and do things around the house, and his other cars don't have air conditioning and aren't roadworthy enough yet that he could reliably get to work in them on a daily basis (he has about a 1-hour commute each way in Phoenix desert heat).

So, when something breaks down (like the fan blades taking out the radiator), he has to put it onto a credit card, which increases his cost of living. And then when there is another problem immediately after (like a bad head gasket or cracked head), there is just no way to come up with that kind of money.

Squiggle Dog · #**128** 09-14-2019, 10:48 PM

The timing chain is stretched 6 degrees. Only 3 degrees of stretch is permissible, and after 10 degrees the pistons will hit the valves and cause damage. So, it must be replaced. This could explain the poor acceleration and smoking.

I started the process of removing the head. First, the intake manifold had to come off, as did the injection lines.

I removed the air cleaner and heat shield for better access to the exhaust system.

The timing chain is held captive by the slider. The top pin is punched out from behind.

The bottom pin is actually a through bolt with a nut.

Squiggle Dog · #**129** 09-14-2019, 10:56 PM

It turned out the head bolts needed a special tool to remove; a 12-point 10mm bit. I got it from NAPA, part number SER2305.

I tapped the bit into each head bolt with a hammer before I put a 1/2" 6-sided socked on the bit, and a 1/2" ratchet with an extension pipe. They are to be removed in the opposite sequence of installation. To my relief, they all came loose without much force. I inserted them into the top of a long overturned cardboard box which had a diagram of the engine and bolt tightening sequence so they wouldn't get mixed up.

There are a couple 6mm hex key screws located down in the front of the head, and then the two bolts that hold on the fuel filter also help secure the head.

Off with its head! I'll have to check the condition of the cylinder walls.

Squiggle Dog · #**130** 09-14-2019, 11:03 PM

Unfortunately, the head is cracked at the #4, 5, and 6 cylinders.

There are some spots where it has corroded.

Cylinder #4 is cracked at the exhaust valve.

Cylinder #5 is cracked at the same location.

Cylinder #6 is just starting to crack between the valves.

So, the head must be replaced as it's not worth welding a #14 head (or even risking running one at all). I'm going to do the best I can to come up with a good head that's within the budget.

vwnate1 · #**131** 09-15-2019, 01:01 AM

Oh, boy, here it goes.....

Either you're going to get $tuck for it or it'll wind up at Pick-A-Part because your roomie keeps crying poor mouth .....

My 1984 300CD just ate up slightly over $3,000.00 I hope when I install the new AGM battery in the morning it charges fine again

.

I'm also keen to see how long this AGM battery lasts, I get 6 years out of a regular flooded cell 900CCA one .

Squiggle Dog · #**132** 09-15-2019, 02:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vwnate1

Oh, boy, here it goes.....

Either you're going to get $tuck for it or it'll wind up at Pick-A-Part because your roomie keeps crying poor mouth .....

My 1984 300CD just ate up slightly over $3,000.00 I hope when I install the new AGM battery in the morning it charges fine again

.

I'm also keen to see how long this AGM battery lasts, I get 6 years out of a regular flooded cell 900CCA one .

Things will get better. I'm here to help and am done mentioning finances. I didn't intend for it to become a topic of discussion; I just wanted to explain the challenge we're facing at the moment.

Wow, what did you have to do to your 300CD? That doesn't sound like a small job.

vwnate1 · #**133** 09-15-2019, 01:30 PM

My 300CD : I located a BOSCH rebuilt injection pump and injectors, because of my injuries I didn't want to do the IP install so a friend who's a shop owner did the IP install and then I attacked the balky 65 ampere alternator, the slip rings were badly worn away (like 3MM grooves) so I replaced it with a junkyard BOSCH rebuilt AL117X unit and installed a BOSCH # 1197 311 028 regulator, and two new belts, Peach parts charged me for the 10 X 1035 MM belts but when I opened the package they were 9.5 MM, oh well, on they went and it now charges 14.2 VDC @ idle, of course when I was installing the new $200 AGM battery I noticed the air cleaner T bracket rear tab was broken off, I replaced it with a Mercedes one last time hoping it'd last longer (nope, back to the cheaper versions) ......

So with the new T bracket I'll order to day the end cost is over $3,000.00 and the car needs a paint job and seats....

It's still cheaper than the payment on a new car but dang this is getting old, the endless fixing of minor things .

My budget is crashed, burned to a crisp, I'll be lucky to be able to buy my son & grand son something for their November birthdays....

No worries, the bills are getting paid and I'm eating fine, just venting .

I could guy buy a wretched Kia or other penalty box vehicle instead .

I quit smoking a while back and that loosened up sufficient $ to keep my old Mercedes .

Squiggle Dog · #**134** 09-28-2019, 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vwnate1

My 300CD : I located a BOSCH rebuilt injection pump and injectors, because of my injuries I didn't want to do the IP install so a friend who's a shop owner did the IP install and then I attacked the balky 65 ampere alternator, the slip rings were badly worn away (like 3MM grooves) so I replaced it with a junkyard BOSCH rebuilt AL117X unit and installed a BOSCH # 1197 311 028 regulator, and two new belts, Peach parts charged me for the 10 X 1035 MM belts but when I opened the package they were 9.5 MM, oh well, on they went and it now charges 14.2 VDC @ idle, of course when I was installing the new $200 AGM battery I noticed the air cleaner T bracket rear tab was broken off, I replaced it with a Mercedes one last time hoping it'd last longer (nope, back to the cheaper versions) ......

So with the new T bracket I'll order to day the end cost is over $3,000.00 and the car needs a paint job and seats....

It's still cheaper than the payment on a new car but dang this is getting old, the endless fixing of minor things .

My budget is crashed, burned to a crisp, I'll be lucky to be able to buy my son & grand son something for their November birthdays....

No worries, the bills are getting paid and I'm eating fine, just venting .

I could guy buy a wretched Kia or other penalty box vehicle instead .

I quit smoking a while back and that loosened up sufficient $ to keep my old Mercedes .

It adds up, doesn't it?

Squiggle Dog · #**135** 09-28-2019, 09:27 PM

Diseasel300 saved the car and gave my roommate a great deal on a non-cracked #14 head from the Diseasel, which had a recent valve and lifter job done on it. He did an excellent packing job and included some much-needed extras such as nearly new Lemförder engine mounts. He's a great example of human kindness.

Now, thanks to Diseasel300's generosity, we can move forward on the project. We found a new Iwis timing chain for $95 shipped and an Elring head gasket set (because I've heard the Victor Reinz ones aren't so good) for $58 shipped, so that's going to do it for the spending (hopefully).

The tie rod and ball joint boots have been ripped open for a while, but we're hoping the car makes it another year so funds can be saved up for all the parts the steering and front suspension will need to have replaced.

I put Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders to free up the piston rings in case they've been sticking at all. I was pleased to see that the cross-hatching is still easily seen on the cylinder walls (though it's not showing up well in the pictures).

There is some scoring of the cylinder walls, but I think adding Restore to the engine oil will fill them in to some extent and will aid in compression and reduction of blow-by. It's nowhere near as bad as the engine in my roommate's 1965 W111 220S--which has deep scoring and there is a definite step on the cylinder walls where the piston rings stop--and yet the engine still runs (though it has extreme blow-by and fouls plugs quickly).

I can see that I'll need to do another cooling system derusting and will leave the oxalic acid in for much longer next time.

Cylinders 1 and 2:

Cylinders 3 and 4:

Cylinders 5 and 6: