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  #16  
Old 04-08-2014, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zacharias View Post
He needs rear. Front and rear are not the same.

Even Mercedes OE rears were NLA last time I checked.

Majority of sites I checked recently only carried URO front ones (some say APA but APA = URO).
Hmm....I wasn't aware of that. Good to know. Another unobtanium part to squirrel away. Another 5-10 years, some of these parts will be as rare as hen's teeth.

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  #17  
Old 04-08-2014, 07:21 PM
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Saddens me. I'm afraid in about 5 years or so everything will be slowly becoming NLA even more so than now. They will be the W116s of the road I'm afraid.

Looks like everyone is now starting to pick up 603 W124 wagons and sedans and the 606s.
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  #18  
Old 04-08-2014, 08:31 PM
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I may have found another retailer with some in stock. I will let you know once I actually have the part in my hands. My first call was to Pelican Parts, to support this forum, but I was told they were not available. I may have a used one somewhere in storage too, but it would be a pain to find right now. I have never driven a W124, but I love my W123 and I really hope the part support for us does not dry up. I am hoping to daily drive mine for many years to come.
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  #19  
Old 04-08-2014, 11:33 PM
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Interchange with fronts

I have been told by another well-known supplier that the rears are now NLA, but just use fronts. The biggest difference is the two detents vs just one.

I have a front door check in one of my rear doors. Works fine; you just get two stops.
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  #20  
Old 04-08-2014, 11:47 PM
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Thanks for confirming that.
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  #21  
Old 04-10-2014, 03:09 PM
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The part came in today and easily swapped in. I do not know how many more are out there, but you can send me a PM if you want the details.

Shane
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  #22  
Old 04-17-2014, 03:32 AM
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I checked with our local MB Dealer on their wholesale site for the front and rear Door Checks.

www.benzpartswholesale.com

123-720-05-16 front door $211.20

123-720-03-16 rear door $211.20

The 123 Coupe uses the same door check as the Sedan rear doors.

Charlie
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  #23  
Old 04-17-2014, 03:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
I checked with our local MB Dealer on their wholesale site

123-720-05-16 front door $211.20

123-720-03-16 rear door $211.20


Charlie
shoot i would have to do the wrangler fix like posted above, unless i had a cherry car or i was intent on restoring it
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  #24  
Old 04-17-2014, 11:03 AM
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If the noise from your door strap is a loud snapping metallic sound, it could be like my 83 where the failure was a crack in the door jamb and failure of a weld behind that is not easy to repair without cutting and welding. I elected to do a simple but effective repair using 2 sheet metal screws to jam the loose hinge/crack instead of cutting and welding and it has held for 3 years. If your's is like mine, you may want to give this a try.

door check loud clicking sound


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  #25  
Old 04-17-2014, 11:37 AM
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If all else fails, take the door check out of the car, clamp it in a vise, and take out the ball and spring. What you will end up with will be a door check that limits how far the door can open, but lacks the detents. In other words, it is sufficient to prevent the door from being damaged by a gust of wind, but you will have to hold the door open as you are entering or exiting.

There is an old thread on here somewhere, which, I think, may have pictures of how to remove the ball and spring.
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  #26  
Old 04-22-2014, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JB3 View Post
mine has been making a ton of noise too, do they really freeze up in the open position?

I was just ignoring it, but its volume is no longer easy to ignore as it snaps around.

Any good procedures on replacing this, or is it something straight forward and obvious?
Yep, happened on my w126 a few weeks ago (the design is similar) it was making a grounding sound for a while and I didn't have time to get around to replacing it.....until the door stuck open, then I quickly found time (fyi if the door sticks open there is NO way you'll get it shut without breaking something) The grease had all but dried out. I had a spare but I was fortunate in that I was able to repair the existing unit.

I put the door check in a vice and was able to slowly close it and re-grease it. (I needed a punch to hit the bearings down in order for it to move) it took a careful 15 minutes but I was able to get it moving again.

I now know to:
A. Toss a bit of grease into the door checks any time I have to open a door panel
B. Not let odd noises go for too long
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  #27  
Old 08-19-2014, 09:15 PM
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Today my drivers door stuck open. It is rather unsettling. Fortunately it happened at home, so there was no driving-home-with-the-drivers-door-wide-open.

Taking apart the door check, the two check balls are held apart by a spring, but each ball is in a plastic bushing. one of the plastic bushings cracked, allowing the ball on that side to sit just slightly askew, and therefore would not compress.

Found a new door check on ebay for $15 with free shipping. on order.

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