Hey tangofox007 you are right. I have a lot of trouble reading the crappy, out of focus FSM.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

thanks for the feedback.

so far I disconnected:
clock
trunk light
roof light front + rear
hazard switch
antenna
visor mirrors
radio

and it still popped #2 when i held down the window button after it was all the way up or down

which leaves:
diagnostic
switchover valve seat back arrester
warning monitor term 5

however, i dont know what or where any of these three things are...

i also switched out the hazard switch, and both center window switches for really clean looking ones i got yesterday from the junk yard...

still blowing.

i kind of doubt anyone wired it wrong but not ruling that out.

i think im going to have to cut into the wire sheath in the door hinges and look for frayed wires but the windows work with both doors all the way open so im doubtful...

i really thought new switches would fix it... :/

does anyone have a better copy? this kind of makes me want to stab my eyes out.

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This is the correct diagram but unfortunately you won't find a better copy unless it is an original printed copy (never seen one myself). I'd trust the FSM more than Haynes. With the FSM, you should be able to restore the wiring to factory, wires have wire color as well as diameter. If you are doing any re-wiring, make sure to disconnect the battery first.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Fuse 2 should have nothing to do with the windows and vice versa. (In the case of my '82 300D, the windows work fine with Fuse 2 completely removed.)

It seems that you are somehow getting window power to the wrong side of Fuse 2. (Otherwise, there is no reason why a Fuse 2 failure would affect window operation.) I think I would run a new "hot at all times" wire to terminal 30 on the window relay. If the problem persists, look for a short in the wire from the relay back to the fuse panel. (Fuse "b" and Fuse 2 are located next to each other.)

Another thought: remove fuse "a" and operate the fuse "b" windows (and vice versa) and see if Fuse 2 still blows. If it only blows on one pair, the problem will be narrowed by half. If Fuse 2 blows on both, it seems that the problem has to lie in the fuse panel or its associated wiring.

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

I suspect a butchered up wiring and it seems to be the case. If you want to get the wiring back to stock then get a Haynes manual. It is not that difficult if you can read schematics. It is always a NO NO to use higher rating fuse. I just found out #2 fuse is a white fuse which is 8A. I do not have the 300D car here and my memory is failing me when I thought it is 16A.

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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.