The windows should work just fine with Fuse #2 not installed. Mine certainly do.

Or did you mean to say Fuse #12, again?

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

What should happen is that the thermal switch in the window motor opens, preventing the other "picks" from occuring. Ever notice that the window won't immediately reverse after being fully opened or closed? Then you hear a faint "click," and then the window then operates normally.

__________________
When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

I meant fuse #12.

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

I am offering a scenario to the OP on why fuse #2 blows all the time with window switch pushed down for a while. #2 fuse is red and is rated 16A nominal. It is a hefty fuse, unless the OP put a white one in there. If the 'thermal' switch in the window motor is working then why the fuse would blow unless the thermal switch breaks at a higher current. It is never good practice to hold down the switch for a long timw. So don't tell be what 'should' and 'should not' happen. Actually I do not notice anything except someone try to lecture me. You are better than that!!

__________________
Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.

hi again,
first of all thanks for the input

just to clarify:
*talking about all four windows working normally and all four individually popping #2 when reach all the way up or down
*also pops #2 if you roll more than one window at a time
*i had a friend sitting shotgun blow the fuse on accident yesterday so its not from operator error its definitely looking like a wiring thing. (ahem tangofox you were right)


pulled fuses a and b... windows still worked and blew #2 when reached all the way up or down.

pulled relay... windows still worked and blew #2 when reached all the way up or down.

pulled fuse #12... windows still worked and blew #2 when reached all the way up or down.

the rabbit hole just got deeper.

going to hunt down a haynes manual in my area.

What size is your fuse #2?
Do your windows work without the key? Is it a Euro?

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Its a white ceramic/brass 8A fuse.
They work without the key, yes. Its a code 494 California version.

Change fuse #2 to 16 A and it should not blow anymore. Euro W123 windows work without the key so they are wired differently. Maybe yours was modified to Euro?

It's a nice feature to have so don't work too hard to get rid of it.

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Unless someone (or a combination of someones) winds up operating multiple windows simultaneously.

__________________
When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

I cant find any info on modifying the window wiring or Euro wiring modification

i had a 16A in there and a 25A when i was testing it and ran out of 8As and it still pops just not as easily.

there were a lot of additions to this car like factory alarm, 3rd brake light, alpine stereo, cell phone so i wouldnt put it past whoever did that stuff to modify the windows.. i think the alpine and cellphone were dealer mods. but again, i can't find any info on "euro wiring" or anything like that. it seems like a weird mod to make especially without leaving any indication that it was done on the fuse designation chart. where are you getting that euro info?

FWIW:
fuse a - no connections
fuse b top - no connections
fuse b bottom - red/blue
#2 bottom - 1 red
- 2 red labeled "Sicherung 2" which i think is the alarm
- 1 red/white
- 1 red
- 5 tied together - 3 red
- 1 red/white
- 1 red/white/yellow
#2 top - cant see
#12 - cant see

going to cross reference this with the haynes. and see if i can get to the back of the other fuses but its really awkward to get behind the panel.

I suspect a butchered up wiring and it seems to be the case. If you want to get the wiring back to stock then get a Haynes manual. It is not that difficult if you can read schematics. It is always a NO NO to use higher rating fuse. I just found out #2 fuse is a white fuse which is 8A. I do not have the 300D car here and my memory is failing me when I thought it is 16A.

__________________
Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.

This is the correct diagram but unfortunately you won't find a better copy unless it is an original printed copy (never seen one myself). I'd trust the FSM more than Haynes. With the FSM, you should be able to restore the wiring to factory, wires have wire color as well as diameter. If you are doing any re-wiring, make sure to disconnect the battery first.

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

What info? If you are referring to windows working w/o key, it was from a UK forum member Alistair, and also from my personal experience driving a Euro 300TD owned by a local forum member. I have not seen a Euro wiring diagram.

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

still got to pick up the haynes manual and take a look

arent the factory service manuals like 200$?

i just cant figure out how or why someone would change the wiring in this way.
it they "Eurofied" it or whatever it seems that there would be some documentation as to what "Eurofying" it really was (besides just arbitrarily screwing up the wiring so the windows roll with no key and confusing the next owner)

i put a 25A fuse in as this seems to be the closest logical solution...

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BTW here is my fuse designation USA Version

Id like to see something more than just speculation and hearsay on this "Euro window" thing.

According to these other two attached Euro fuse charts, one in German from a 300CD and one in English from a 200D, the only difference is the headlight wiring.

This means the wiring i have is not "Euro" but rather just screwed up.

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