Battery Died - Size for new one? Can-Tire warranty - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Graham · #1 04-25-2014, 05:16 PM

My 1985 300Ds battery seems to have died

I had it disconnected all winter and car did start when I hooked it up a few weeks ago. It was a bit weak, so I charged it fully 2 days ago. But today, if it wasn't for the good compression, I would have been stranded. Checked voltage when I got back and it was just over 10V. Have it back on charge and will do a load test once charged.

Questions 1.
I always have a heck of a time getting battery in and out of car. I have to totally remove the air cleaner. The battery seems to fit the tray properly but perhaps it is too high? Invoice says it is a 49-850. What size battery do y'all use?

Question 2 (for Canucks)
The battery is a CT Motomaster Eliminator. Comes with 3 year free replacement warranty. After that warrantied for another 6 years on a prorated basis. I bought battery on Oct 29, 2010. So I have had 3 1/2 years out of it. If I understand the warranty, I will have to pay 3.5/9 = 38.9% of cost of new one. Anyone had experience with CT warranty?

Zacharias · #2 04-25-2014, 06:03 PM

Graham, I have a friend who owns a garage and he advises his customers to buy anything BUT Canadian Tire batteries.

To answer your question, from what I have heard customer experience with Cdn T warranties on tires, tools, everything, varies between locations as they are most/all franchises. Some franchise holders don't like dealing with warranty (for example the guy who owned the one near me, until last year). Others are more professional. Bear in mind the pro-rating on the warranty is calculated off the full list price (even if you bought your current one on sale).

WalMart sells a relatively decent battery for $115 or so. I have one in my 300d. Interstate is $200+ but has a good reputation.

Graham · #3 04-25-2014, 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zacharias

Graham, I have a friend who owns a garage and he advises his customers to buy anything BUT Canadian Tire batteries.

Not surprising. Its a Canadian pasttime to dis Crappy Tire

But they are convenient, open 7 days a week and you can get warranty honoured anywhere in country.

CT sell several grades of batteries. I am sure the cheapest ones are not good. The one in question is an Eliminator and cost $128 in 2010.

I once found a web site that listed just where various sellers obtained their batteries. Many came from same factories and many of those were from companies owned by Johnson Controls. Exide filed for bankruptcy last year, apparently because they lost the Walmart account. The article I read said that Walmart in Canada sold batteries from a different source than Walmart USA which at the time sold Exide as their better brand.

Its almost impossible to know what and what is not a good battery these days. I figure if CT offers a 9 year warranty, the batteries can't be bad.

If I get another battery, it will have to be be an Eliminator, because that is what the warranty covers!

But is battery bad? See separate post.

uberwasser · #4 04-25-2014, 07:29 PM

I've had great luck so far with Duralast Gold size H8 batteries from AutoZone. They are 1000CCA for $125. Three year free replacement, two year prorated. And they do honor warranties. They even keep a database of battery purchases referenced back to your phone number so you don't have to keep the receipt.

sixto · #5 04-25-2014, 08:23 PM

Your car takes a Group 49 or DIN H8 battery. Looks like the previous battery was rated at 850 cranking amps.

Sixto
MB-less

Graham · #6 04-25-2014, 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixto

Your car takes a Group 49 or DIN H8 battery. Looks like the previous battery was rated at 850 cranking amps.

Sixto
MB-less

Yes, it is no doubt a Group 49. But do others have same problem getting their batteries in and out of car? I checked dimensions of battery and they do match the Group 49 dimensions of 13.9x6.9x7.6.

I have tested the battery out of the car. It seems to charge back up kind of fast. Went from barely being able to turn engine over to full charge in about 2 hours. I put load tester on it and voltage drops from 12.5 to 11 and hold steady. Still in green of tester scale (just) indicating battery is OK.

I guess I better try and see if I have a current leak somewhere.

dude99 · #7 04-25-2014, 10:04 PM

Having worked previously at the CT parts counter (quite some time ago, terrible place to work) I can honestly say, DO NOT BUY THERE BATTERIES!!!!!!!!!! they are s**t, utter s**t..... Either buy an interstate (my preference) or go to a Lordco and buy an AC Delco.

yvairguy · #8 04-26-2014, 01:37 AM

pull the rubber that seals the hood to the firewall enough that the battery is easier to pull out.

i had to buy a battery fast and the only place that had one was walmart.... not a bad battery even with the abuse of the glow plugs taking it down to nothing a couple times

Graham · #9 04-26-2014, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yvairguy

pull the rubber that seals the hood to the firewall enough that the battery is easier to pull out.

i had to buy a battery fast and the only place that had one was walmart.... not a bad battery even with the abuse of the glow plugs taking it down to nothing a couple times

I tried everything including squishing the rubber seal, but couldn't get her out without removing the air cleaner. Not such a big deal, but just wondered if others had same problem.

Regarding who makes which types of batteries, I found the reference I mentioned upthread:

Lead-Acid Battery Manufacturers and Brand Names List 2014

If you look under Exide, it shows that they make or made Eliminator and Nautilus batteries for Canadian Tire as well as Everstart for Walmart (US)

uberwasser · #10 04-26-2014, 11:02 AM

It is a tight fit on the turbo cars. It's kind of like the fuse cover lid in that there is one specific way it will slide in and out.

On the N/A cars I have found it to be much easier.

BillGrissom · #11 04-26-2014, 12:07 PM

My batteries aren't easy to get in & out. You need to tilt them a certain way (like the fuse cover). I also slide the rubber seal off the firewall lip (easy). My 85 CA 300D is much easier since I installed an 82 replacement engine and got rid of the big heat shield that was there for the higher turbo (always had to remove that contraption, 85 CA only). I am also using the H8 battery instead of the original Frame 49. It is ~10 lb lighter (helps a lot) and maybe slightly smaller. Also $20 cheaper at Autozone.

Every time I did like you, putting a discharged battery on the 10 A charger and finding it fully charged in 30 min or less, I took it to Autozone and had it load tested and found it couldn't "hold a charge". They did say several batteries I tested once were OK, so I don't think they are faking the test to sell you a battery. I always get their Gold ones w/ the better warranty. Not sure if they are actually better quality or you just pay for the warranty.

Graham · #12 04-26-2014, 01:14 PM

Thanks for input on battery installation. I have a Group 93 battery out of my E320. It would go in a lot easier (5/8" lower height). But it doesn't test out under load

I recharged the 300D battery and did a series of load tests and it always stays at 11V under load. This should be good. I hooked it up to the car and measured current leakage on negative. It is only 10ma. That should not run battery down.

I suppose battery could have internal current leakage. But car started this Spring after sitting for 3 months with battery disconnected.

If the battery is good, perhaps problem is on starter connections. I have not ventured down there but will have a look.

I will also do a voltage test while preheating and when cranking. Hard to do though, because car always starts on first touch of key. No coil wire to disconnect

UPDATE: Checked voltage during start (with wife helping!). During glow, voltage drops to about 11.2V. As soon as key turned, engine starts and voltage does not go down any further. With rpm increased a bit, meter reads 13.3V or so. So seems normal.

Thinking starter connections or starter itself?? Can I access the connections if I put car up on ramps?

Starter is original, but was once rebuilt. I recall having shop do it and that access was not easy!

uberwasser · #13 04-26-2014, 01:28 PM

You can tie the STOP lever down to stop fuel flow. Then you can crank to your hearts content. Just keep the health of the starter in mind.

Graham · #14 04-26-2014, 02:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uberwasser

You can tie the STOP lever down to stop fuel flow. Then you can crank to your hearts content. Just keep the health of the starter in mind.

Thanks for tip - Wouldn't have thought of that!

Quote:

The voltage regulator might be on its last legs. Keep one in the car since it's easy to replace anywhere.

Sixto
MB-less

I will have to see if battery loses charge after several stop starts. Having spare regulator certainly won't do any harm.

Graham · #15 04-26-2014, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uberwasser

You can tie the STOP lever down to stop fuel flow. Then you can crank to your hearts content. Just keep the health of the starter in mind.

I used this trick to test the starter with newly charged battery. First time, it was slow and hesitated but finally spun up. Did some other stuff and tried again. Now spinning freely. Same when I started car.

Wondering (hoping?) that starter was just sticking after having sat idle for 3 months. Have put everything back together, so time will tell!