Hi All. I am trying to replace the tie rods on the 124. How do you remove them? I took the nuts off of the inner and outer, but isn't budging. Smack with hammer? Do I need to loosen anything along the rod? Thank you.

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1977 Volkswagen Golf GTi (sold)
1981 Audi 5000S Turbo (sold)
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1984 Saab 900 150k (sold)
1984 Volkswagen Scirocco GTX 1.8T 20V
1985 Mercedes Benz 190E 2.0 160k(sold)
1986 Mercedes Benz 190E 2.3-16 188k (sold)
1988 Volkswagen Fox 161K (sold)
1990 BMW 525td (Sold)
1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 100k
1994 Saab 900 SE Turbo 55k (sold)
1996 Volvo 855R 140K
2001 VW Jetta Wolfsburg 16k (sold)

Tie rods are usually pretty easy. Nothing special about a Mercedes tie-rod. It is a tapered fit, which is why they don't just pull out when you loosen the nut. If you smack with a hammer you need to smack it on the outside of the spindle, not on the stud. If you are just replacing the inner-outer tie rod assembly...I would prefer to use a tie rod fork over hitting the outside of my spindle with a hammer. Some may disagree but it makes it really easy if you are not trying to save the old ones. You just slide the fork under the boot and hammer on the end of it. The tie rod will just pop out after a couple of whacks. They only cost about $10, or I think Advanced auto might even have one you can rent for free: Autocraft Tie Rod Separator AC565/W1204P: Search no more for the best Tool Sets at Advance Auto Parts .

They have other types of separators too. I did mine on the 87 a couple of weeks ago...it was easy. Just make sure to carefully measure how long the old assembly is and get the new one as close to the length as you can. You will then need to take it in for an alignment.

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See video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KSTaOfP7nwc

See link:

Rental Tools | O'Reilly Auto Parts

You can rent one for free at most auto stores.

Keep in mind this tool will ruin the rubber boots on the old parts. So if you have any need to re-use the parts, you'll want a different sort of tool. More like this:



It's a tie-rod/ball joint separator that uses pulling tension instead of hammering force.

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You'll need to use a tie rod fork to hammer out the tie rods.

Looks like this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_18337.jpg

That's all that needs to be done to remove the. Remove the nuts and then use a fork to separate them.

A pneumatic hammer and fork makes quick work of them

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Rented the fork. Outer one popped out, but inner has a knuckle from some other part that interferes with the fork sliding through enough to remove it, it gets almost there (about halfway through the fork) and then contacts the knuckle. Might need to get that pulling type for the inner one..

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Meek

1977 Volkswagen Golf GTi (sold)
1981 Audi 5000S Turbo (sold)
1982 Volkswagen Rabbit LS 145k (sold)
1983 Volkswagen Rabbit GTi 150k (sold)
1984 Saab 900 150k (sold)
1984 Volkswagen Scirocco GTX 1.8T 20V
1985 Mercedes Benz 190E 2.0 160k(sold)
1986 Mercedes Benz 190E 2.3-16 188k (sold)
1988 Volkswagen Fox 161K (sold)
1990 BMW 525td (Sold)
1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 100k
1994 Saab 900 SE Turbo 55k (sold)
1996 Volvo 855R 140K
2001 VW Jetta Wolfsburg 16k (sold)

Tool pictured in post #3 will work on the front suspension. Been there done that.

As stated above, be sure to set the lengths the same as the old, using the threaded adjustment features.
This will get you close enough to be able to drive it (immediately) to the alignment shop.

Note: while you are there, check the condition of your ball joints, if they are worn it will cause the suspension to collapse in a dramatic way.

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both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
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1987 300TD sold to vstech

There are lots of ways to separate ball joints and rod ends. A fork is at the top of the list of worst choices.

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I did my W210 today on the driver's side.
Simply removed the nut and would up with a couple of hits with a ball-peen hammer on the threaded end and it was out.

Counted the turns of the threads and turned the new ball joint the same number of turns. Drives straight. I have an appointment for a fresh alignment.

Question. . . is it good enough for the alignment marks to be in the green or should they be perfectly centered. Just how picky should I be.

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The one with the Red Arrow at the top left from Harbor Freight. It is hard to find this tool in the Harbor Freight Catalog but it is in the Store. Some People have said it is a casting and is prone to breakage.

A lot of Auto Part Stores sell or free rent the one at the lower right of the first picture with the Red Arrow.

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