I'm heading to a junkyard in the next day or two that has some 300 series turbo cars with engines, and I'd like to pull an injection pump, not only to have as a spare, but also to save it from being scrapped when the car eventually gets crushed.
I tried, with no success, to remove one in a yard a year ago, so obviously I am doing something wrong.
I have the tool to remove the injector lines from the pump. Other than that, I only have "normal" hand tools (I'm a mechanic, so I do have a lot of variety to choose from).
If anyone can advise a 'down and dirty' way of getting the IP off without spending half the day just removing that one part, I'd appreciate it.
Can I just remove the lines, somehow remove the gear from the shaft (leaving gear on the timing chain), and unbolt the IP from the engine case?
Thanks.

You're on the right track.

Remove fuel supply and return
Remove hard lines
Remove any electrical wires
Remove
Vacuum pump( might require removing belts)
Unbolt the gear( it's a left hand thread)
Then remove the 3 bolts that mount it.
Remove

Also buy the timing gear. Those are worth something if you can buy them cheap.

Sort of correct!

On the 61X family of engines there is no need to remove the vacuum pump and there is no left-hand threaded bolt to remove. Those details are relevant to the OM60X engines.

OM61X engines use an internally splined sleeve to connect the timing device to the IP . The IP is held in place with three 13 mm bolts which thread into the block arranged more or less in a circle at the front of the IP and screw forwards towards the front of the car.

The most difficult part of removing the IP is a same 90 degree support bracket at the rear of the IP that bolts to the block. It is very difficult to get any wrench or socket on either of the bolt heads and it is very difficult to get much of any swing of the tool once you do get a tool on a bolt. There are wrenched called Half-moon style which are shaped sort of like a banana and there is a wrench usually described as for VW injection pump removal that has a 90 degree bend of its shaft that make removing the bracket a bit easier. At the rear of the 617 turbo IP you will have the oil cooler lines that restrict your ability to get at the pump's rear end.

Once you get the IP unfastened it is a bit of a Chinese puzzle to maneuver it out of its place because the oil filter housing is quite close to the rear of the IP and you need about an inch and a half of rearward movement to get the nose of the IP to clear the block.

Cutting the oil cooler lines at the oil filter housing makes it easier, removing or destroying the oil filter housing makes it easier still.

If you are speaking of the 1985 300TD Wagon. 617.952 after you remove the Hoses and tubes connected to the Fuel Injection Pump and Fuel Supply Pump and pop off the Linkage on the Throttle Arm there is a Bracket in the rear bottom of the Fuel Injection Pump.

The Bracket has 2 Bolts holding it to the Block and a single Bolt and nut at the top of the Bracket which is the Bottom Rear of the Fuel Injection Pump.
I would try removing the 2 Bolts from the Block part first and then go up and remove the 2 Nuts holding the Front of the Fuel Injection Pump.

The Nut between the Engine and the Fuel Injection Pump may need a U or S shaped Wrench to turn. But, I did good with a bunch of 3/8" Extensions with a 1/2" Swivel Socket on it. A U-Joint or an Extension with that is made so the Socket can swivel may also be able to be used.

After that move the pump to the read while at the same time pulling the rear of the Fuel Injction Pump towards your Body/the left Fender.
Getting it back in with the timing marks lined up is not as easy.

If you just feel the need to remove that rear Nut and Bolt at the bottom rear of the Fuel injection Pump remove the Oil Cooler Line at the Oil Filter and do what is needed to move it out of the way.

There is also a Spring going to the IP Throttle Arm and to the Bracket.

For mor info:
Repair Links
DIY Links by Parts Category - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum
PeachPartsWiki: Do It Yourself Articles - Mercedes Vehicles

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thanks for all the input, I really appreciate it!
I know one of the cars is an '84 300D, if that helps with removal tips.
i was planning on removing the oil cooler lines and the filter housing. I wanted to save the cooler lines as spares, and just removing the filter housing for more access room to get at the IP.
Looks like I'll be filling the tool box with all the weird random sockets, extensions, and L shaped and U shaped box wrenches too.
Thanks again.

Every time I hear the phrase "crash course" in relation to an automotive matter, I start snickering...I don't need help crashing, I can do that on my own.

Sorry, I have nothing more useful to contribute than that. Good luck with the pump.

Agree here.


I would add that if you remove the vacuum control valve and the rack damper, that 'Chinese puzzle' becomes negligible.

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There has been more then a few threads started, stating it is not a good idea to just store an ip pump on a shelf. There is really no way to properly store a used ip. Its more or less, just find one when you need one....not buy a spare, these ip's usually last longer then the car unless ran on any type of alternative fuel another consideration, you need to take into place when pulling an ip.

I would also not pull used oil lines, buy them or even install them. That is a piece that can kill your engine in a matter of seconds. Buy new or rebuild the existing ones.

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