Anyone have experience replacing the two external shift rod bushings on the W201 AT 722.4? I have metal on metal on the forward bushing.

I had an intermittent cyclical noise, then the shifter got substantially looser. I think that as the bushings failed, the linkage rubbed a bit on the balancing disc on the driveshaft.

The rear bushing is easy to get to. I can see a circlip on the front one, but looks tough to get to. There looks to be a big electrical connector to the transmission just under the front one - is that something I could easily take off to get room, or is a connector that often breaks?

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W201 1989 190D

There is a tab on the electrical connector that needs to be rotated a bit to allow the connector to be removed, then it pulls straight out from the neutral safety switch it's attached to.

Unless you have very thin long fingers it is probably easiest to remove the shifter lever, there is a bolt 10 mm head and 10 mm nut that holds the shifter lever to the shaft. Then with the shifter lever off you can replace the plastic bushing fairly easily and get the metal clip into place that secures it(if you live and drive in the rust belt the clip might need replacement). Then you can maneuver the lever back into place, make sure the plastic stud from the NSS fits into the hole on the shifter lever (that's how that works, when the shifter lever moves the NSS arm rotates with it and the contacts within the NSS open or close respectively) and then reinstall the securing bolt and its nut.

There is very little room to work on this sometimes a wooden wedge can be driven between the tranny and the tranny tunnel forcing it a 1/2 - 1 inch over to one side to get just enough to get things done.

The rear shifter rod connection is "easier" but it is sometimes easier to remove the shifter from above, replace the bushing attach the shifter rod and metal clip and then drop it down through.

There are two problems aside from enough room and access to the end connections, with replacing these bushings basically. One is forcing the bushing into place, they are forced into a hole so that each of the two molded ridges end up on either side of the stamped metal receptacle. That can be done with pliers of some sort ( there are special modified types sold on eBay for the purpose) or some people use a socket , a nut and bolt and a few washers to assemble as a sort of "press" to get the bushing in place. Getting the bushing warm and more pliable helps, as does some sort of lube.

The second problem comes once the bushing is in place and the stud from either the shifter (at the rear) or the stud that is the front of the shifter rod( at the front) is in the bushing, getting the metal clip into position to snap in place can be very frustrating. This is because the new bushing's overall width is almost too wide, it usually requires putting some pressure to push the stud far enough through the bushing to get enough of the stud to extend far enough out so that its groove which the metal clip fits in, is exposed enough so that the metal clip can snap into place. I no longer fight the bushing's elasticity, I cheat and trim the bushing's overall width by holding it against a belt sander for a moment or two to make it the tiny bit thinner so that the clip can be put in place more easily.

Excellent advice, thanks.

Re: tool, is this what you meant?
10" Long Transmission Bushing Repair Pliers Mercedes BMW | eBay

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W201 1989 190D

Can someone tell me where the 10mm nut and bolt are, to remove the plate at the transmission into which the bushing fits? I've been under the car for 1 hour and can't clearly identify it.

PS - Not an image from my car - I don't have any of that oil

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W201 1989 190D

I just did this job on the 190DT. I used Kent Bergsma's kit (go to"**************" dot com and search shifter bushing kit), which makes the job a whole lot easier.

It includes the pliers, and also includes a clever tool for removing and installing the clips. I know some will say this is no big deal, but on my car, access is so tight, I never could have done it with my hands. There's also a video on the site that you will find helpful. But here are some tips:

For the front, you need to remove the rear transmission mount and drop the transmission. Slide a jack under the pan with a wide board to spare the pan. Raise it up just enough to take the weight off the mount. Undo the two bolts on the mount, and the bolts on the exhaust support. Remove the mount, and slowly let the tranny drop. It can't drop down too far, because there' s a cross member that will block the driveshaft. But even the two inches that it drops are absolutely priceless for access.

To do the rear bushing, I removed the switch panel from the center console. I undid the four bolts (10mm wrench) that hold the shifter in place (shoot some oil up from the underneath the car, to get the bolts free). That will give you tons of room to do the rear.

For both front and back, the tools will make all the difference. With the clip gadget, a simple twist will remove and reinstall the clip, even deep in the tunnel. And the pliers allow you to reach right up and press the bushing in place. I know it's expensive, but if you were paying for the job, it would cost a whole lot more.

MX Frank -

Thanks. Yes, got Kent's kit. I didn't realize you needed to drop the transmission to get it, but will try that. Wish I had done this a month ago when I was replacing the flex disc and transmission mount!

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W201 1989 190D

Got it done tonight. I learned a couple things:

- On my 722.4, there are two bolts, but no nuts, that hold the neutral safety switch in place.
- Having the shifter in park, as opposed to neutral, places the front bushing and the arm much closer to the ground, and thus, you can fit the pliers up. I was originally trying to get it in there with the transmission in neutral, which places the NSS in the furthest from the ground location.

I have now moved the shift lever up and down through the gear (felt good).

Any other adjustments needed before I lower, turn the car on, and test for reverse?

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W201 1989 190D