even if it had the adapter of the correct OD and ID if you used it in cojunction with the supplied stepped Metal Discs it is not going to fit.

I never finished the below adapter and did My Joint without it. I found out dormison had done it long ago and since then this year one of our members did the same but finshed his.
I believe he said the length needed to be 3/4"; if so mine is too long. Also as many have said the Tubing OD is a little too wide.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I used the Autozone free rental C-frame tool on my 1984 300D to install the lower ball joint. Like many, it felt like it would bend or crack the tool, though it did work. Since then, I bought the Harbor Freight press on sale for the next pass (so far I changed 1 of 4 LBJ's on my 2 300D's). I will use RollGuy's smarter method of tightening the screw, then hitting it down with a hammer, repeat.

BTW, I removed the old ball joint, similar to funola, except I didn't bury the top in the ground, I just held the spindle upside down on the driveway (top sitting on an old brake pad), and beat the LBJ out w/ a framing hammer. No real rust. The new one measured slightly larger, which is why it was such a bear to press in.

Did you need to remove the boot, for it to fit the AZ press?

If you don't mind, which HF kit? Last time I looked they had several. (Red or grey case will probably do it....)

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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

Brought mine to the dealership and the service writer said to leave a $20 in the trunk for the tech since it would take him longer to write me up than to actually do the work.

I bought a Harbor Freight C Press, a Pit Bull C Press and I rented a Autozone C Press.

The Autozone Press turned out to have a dented area so I could not have used it. The Autozone Press was the best fitted and finshed of the 3 Pesses.

The Harbor freight one was the cruder of the 3 but worked.

All of them were made very close to each other in size and the Screws were interchangable none seemed to have any advantage over the others with the exceptin that the Disc that come with the Harbor Freight one are way cruder. But, I am still gald bought them.

I used one of the C Presses on My Volvo U-joint job and that is one of the things they can be used for.
If you look back at some old Manuals they were used to press out King Pins. I am thinking that the use as a Ball Joint Press came along later as older Cars did not have Ball Joints.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I never thought to use the Spacer Tube as shown on the Bottom of Steering Knuckle. I used a Pipe Union but only at the end of the Job.

Using the C Press for Ball Joints
http://www.w124performance.com/images/W123_stuff/W123_suspension/ball_joint_press1.jpg
http://www.w124performance.com/images/W123_stuff/W123_suspension/ball_joint_press2.jpg

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

The boot was off. I didn't try with a boot. I recall it would have sat on the rubber, which wouldn't work well. Indeed, I didn't even use the boot that came w/ the new ball joint (forgot manuf, but not high-priced German). I put new polyurethane boots on, like I do on all my cars, I recall from an Energy Suspension for a 60's Mopar (my other cars). The thin rubber boots that come on most ball joints don't seem to last. I re-used the ball joint on one side, but replaced the boot. Both upper ball joints were fine (see very little force), so I just re-booted them. I recall posting the details.

It would take some time to search for the HF kit in my cluttered garage. Once I put some cars back together, that will improve. I recall it is a grey case.