Hi there, I've seen a couple comments on waterless coolant, some swearing by it, where I'd noticed some corrosion of aluminum bits I thought it would be a good idea. Of course like many of these things you research them fully, BUT you don't get the real picture till you buy it and read the instructions, warnings, and troubleshooting.

Number 1: It says, it really doesn't like bypass thermostat setups, isn't that what's in our cars? It says to use a full-flow thermostat ideally one made by them.

Number 2: It says to block off the weep hold in the water pump (or use a water pump by them).

Number 3: It talks about blocking the overflow tube outlet, apparently if there is an issue with vacuum being created and losing coolant.

Does, anyone with experience with this stuff, know the scoop.

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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission.

I run it in my signature car and it works great. I also run it at zero pressure. It's a little bit of a PITA to install, as you'll need their prep fluid and a refractometer to verify that you've removed all water from the system. It worked fine last winter, and so far, this summer hasn't bothered it at all. Check this site and watch the Jay Leno video. Home » Evans Cooling. They don't want to sell direct, they'll refer you to a dealer.

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'83 300D, 126K miles.

I watched the Jay Leno video. That's quite an endorsement. What's Leno's involvement with Evanscooling? Does he have any financial interest?

Sounds like a good product. I will look into it further and may give it a try.

What are the negatives if any of Evans coolant other than price?

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

It was Leno's video that got me on board with it. And I like the idea of a zero pressure coolant on a car nearing 40 years, even though I've replaced every hose on it.

I'd expected the prep part of the conversion, they talk about that extensively on the web site. My system is bone dry, from servicing, block is dry, heater core is flushed and dried with a slow flow of 10 psi air. The radiator is new, and the hoses are all new. So that part is not a problem, it's the other things that I found out about only after buying the stuff, and ready the installation instructions. I don't object to it, I'm just wondering if it's all worth it now, seems like a lot more hassle, than "make sure your previous coolant is all gone".

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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission.

No opinion just information. I have a 240d that I expect used it at one time. It was no longer present in the coolant system when I purchased the car. You can draw whatever conclusions you like to from that.

Could have been a bad hose or other issue that caused it's removal. Unfortunatly I never knew at the time of purchase or may have asked the owner some questions.

Found two empty jugs of the evans brand still in the trunk in a box with many other things when I got home. Personally I might consider it for a cast iron block and head engine that was marginally running hot unless I could find some cause easily rectified.

I personally at this time have no reason to have anything for or against it.

The MSDS indicates that its primary ingredient is ethylene glycol rather than the more commonly used propylene glycol (probably EPA inspired, doncha know) which is much less toxic.

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62 220sb
67 250S
72 280SE 4.5
74 280C
77 300D
82 240D
85 190E 2.3
86 300E RIP 12/28/09
85 300SD
92 300D 2.5
00 E320 Current
Over 1,000,000 miles in Benzes, Since66

....and a whole passel of BMW 2002 and Tii

Please tell about " the other things that I found out about only after buying the stuff".

It would seem getting rid of every bit of water in a cooling system is not an easy task. How critical is 100% water removal? There is moisture in the air and will slowly infiltrate an open Evans coolant system. How bad is that little bit of moisture in the Evans coolant long term?

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

They say water should be under 3%, they have a flush, which I assume is some kind of alcohol or something that disperses water.

The other things are:

Number 1: It says, it really doesn't like bypass thermostat setups, isn't that what's in our cars? It says to use a full-flow thermostat ideally one made by them.

Number 2: It says to block off the weep hold in the water pump (or use a water pump by them).

Number 3: It talks about blocking the overflow tube outlet, apparently if there is an issue with vacuum being created and air being sucked in.

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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission.

Looks like the same/similar to Mercedes/Zerex G05 product.

http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/zerex_g05.pdf

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62 220sb
67 250S
72 280SE 4.5
74 280C
77 300D
82 240D
85 190E 2.3
86 300E RIP 12/28/09
85 300SD
92 300D 2.5
00 E320 Current
Over 1,000,000 miles in Benzes, Since66

....and a whole passel of BMW 2002 and Tii

I buy Sierra Anti Freeze at Tractor Suppy,I run it 100%,its the same thing really as Evans PG.

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

Just to be clear Ethylene Glycol is regular antifreeze/ brake fluid. Propylene Glycol is less toxic. I think the stuff is propylene. Otherwise it would be just regular antifreeze.

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Chris
84 280sl
82 300d euro

It's not at all the same. The M-B/Zerex is a ethylene glycol formula you mix with water.

Even's and yes, Sierra is propylene glycol that runs with no water at all.

Ethylene glycol is poison and propylene glycol is used as a food additive...so very different stuff.

Prestone is making a propylene glycol coolant now too, but still has it mix at 50/50 to 30-70 and has other chemicals that make it still dangerous they call it "lowtox" but not exactly the same, though it is cheaper.

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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission.

It is the same stuff, and is the same price. Did you do anything else to convert? Block the weep hole, or etc?

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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission.

Number 1: It says, it really doesn't like bypass thermostat setups, isn't that what's in our cars? It says to use a full-flow thermostat ideally one made by them.

Number 2: It says to block off the weep hold in the water pump (or use a water pump by them).

Number 3: It talks about blocking the overflow tube outlet, apparently if there is an issue with vacuum being created and air being sucked in.
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I didn't see this in any of my instructions. That may have applied to their earliest product which was made strictly for racing applications. Regarding its toxicity, "The U.S. CPSC has not granted a waiver for Evans NPG+ with respect to labeling requirements for products containing ethylene glycol. Evans NPG+must be regarded for purposes of handling and disposal in the same category as a conventional ethylene glycol based antifreeze."

IOW, even though it's less toxic, it's still considered EG for safety purposes.

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'83 300D, 126K miles.

I doubt it shares NPG's 370* boiling point.

A little research shows that it does. I wonder what the other differences are.

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'83 300D, 126K miles.