Quote:
Originally Posted by Rebe
Yikes! I don't have an inch/lb torque wrench with a dial gauge on it. However, I do have a very high quality one. I viewed a pictorial on doing one, and it emphasized the marking of the flange and the nut precisely. In doing this and with my testing procudures with the torque wrench, I feel I should not have any issues. There is an actual torque for the pinion bearing. I ran on to it searching on someone else doing the project several months ago. First, I need to verify if the bearing is good or not. If it is not, I will not attempt the project until this fall. I don't like to tackle a 3rd end in the summer heat!
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There is no specific Torque on the Nut because you are supposed to squash a Sleeve similar to the ones in the Picture. You tighten down on the Sleeve a bit and then take the inch pound torque wrench and rotate the Pinion Shaft and see what type of resistance you get in inch pounds.
What you are doing is pre-loading the Bearings inside and there is no end play that can be checked like on the Rear Wheel bearings that also use a Crush Sleeve.
I did this on My Chevy Van over 1 Year ago but have never done it on a Mercedes. The pic of the Crush Sleeves are the ones from My Van.
The idea is that before you take the Pinon Shaft nut off you take the inch pound torque wrench and see what the bearing preload is. You make the position of the Nut on the shaft, count the exposed threads and even measuer the exosed threads if you can. But, that is only helpful if you use the same Nut again.
The above is a good idea to do even if you have the little Torque Wrench.
So you are trying to return the Nut to the exact same position and the theory is that that should preserve the Bearing Preload. And, that may be so.
I don't know about with Mercedes but on the Van there was a New Bearing Preload and an excepted limit Preload for used Bearings.
06-27-2014, 08:54 PM
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