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  #1  
Old 07-07-2014, 07:32 AM
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How do I secure heat shield?

See pic. My heat shield has become detached at three points....so it's prone to rattling. Can anyone recommend a method of securing the shield to the studs?

Thanks.

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How do I secure heat shield?-shield.jpg  
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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 157k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 175k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 144k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete

19 Honda CR-V EX 70k mi
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  #2  
Old 07-07-2014, 07:48 AM
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If there are any threads left on that stud, you'll probably need a big washer under the nut to hold what is left of the heat shield.
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'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
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  #3  
Old 07-07-2014, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxbumpo View Post
If there are any threads left on that stud, you'll probably need a big washer under the nut to hold what is left of the heat shield.
It doesn't look like there is any threading left.
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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 157k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 175k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 144k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete

19 Honda CR-V EX 70k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
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  #4  
Old 07-07-2014, 08:19 AM
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Location: Charleston SC
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Clean off all the rust you can, hold the heat shield in place by bracing with a piece of wood or something, put your washer in place and then wrap wire tightly around the stud (wire is substitute for nut). Coat the whole mess with JB weld, let dry for 24 hours, then check for rattle. If you still have a rattle, try winding some string or twine around the stud between body and heat shield to take up the slack and eliminate the rattle.

Another way: remove the stud, install a new stud. Easy if you are a welder...
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M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC
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  #5  
Old 07-07-2014, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxbumpo View Post
Clean off all the rust you can, hold the heat shield in place by bracing with a piece of wood or something, put your washer in place and then wrap wire tightly around the stud (wire is substitute for nut). Coat the whole mess with JB weld, let dry for 24 hours, then check for rattle. If you still have a rattle, try winding some string or twine around the stud between body and heat shield to take up the slack and eliminate the rattle.

Another way: remove the stud, install a new stud. Easy if you are a welder...
The last thing I am is a welder. Your first solution sounds great...thanks.
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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 157k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 175k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 144k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete

19 Honda CR-V EX 70k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
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  #6  
Old 07-07-2014, 08:44 AM
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It will be ugly, but it probably will work. Not fun, not pretty, but worth a shot. Relatively cheap too!
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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC
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  #7  
Old 07-07-2014, 09:13 AM
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There are push-on nuts that don't require threads too. Should be available at any hardware store or several places online.
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  #8  
Old 07-07-2014, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OM617YOTA View Post
There are push-on nuts that don't require threads too. Should be available at any hardware store or several places online.
Great idea! Reminds me of those single-use things that held the wheels on my wagon when I was a kiddo. They can be pushed onto a shaft, but have a "Chinese finger trap" quality that prevents them from coming back off.
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M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC
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  #9  
Old 07-07-2014, 11:21 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Wilmington, NC by the Atlantic ocean
Posts: 2,530
If you soak that stud in penetrant for a day or two I'll wager that you can run a die over those threads and proceed with a big washer. Remember that you can use a slightly smaller die - maybe a 5/16-18 or so and a matching nut. Because I build stuff like a M-B engine in an S-10 (and this isn't my first weird build) I'm constantly solving these kinds of challenges.

If you don't have a tap and die set this is the perfect time to justify the purchase! Can't have too many tools. BTW - this is NOT the place for HF - pop for Hanson or similar quality. Mine are MAC (made by Hanson) and are at least 30 years old - I've replaced 1 tap out of both sets (English and Metric) and they're still sharp.

Dan
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  #10  
Old 07-07-2014, 11:28 AM
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The push on type nut deal is the ticket because the shield does not weigh much
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  #11  
Old 07-12-2014, 08:46 AM
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A combination of cap nuts, washers, stainless steer wire, and aluminum foil (the last two to close narrow gaps) did the trick. Thanks for the advice.
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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 157k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 175k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 144k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete

19 Honda CR-V EX 70k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
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  #12  
Old 07-12-2014, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shertex View Post
A combination of cap nuts, washers, stainless steer wire, and aluminum foil (the last two to close narrow gaps) did the trick. Thanks for the advice.
Wire brush, RustOleum, and POR-15 to bond?

Grocery store aluminum foil disintegrates in time. However, this gave me an idea on stopping the vibration/rattle on heat-shield located further down the exhaust line on my CDI. -By stuffing some between where some is vibrating and the car 's underside unibody.

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