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#1
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How do i balance the replacement flywheel?
I got the engine out (617) and will need to replace the flywheel with one that bolts to the Land Rover transmission. It is my understanding that the engine is balanced as a whole with the flywheel.
I'm having hart time imagining how the old flywheel's balance could be replicated in the new one. Can someone please shed some light on it? |
#2
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Before you remove the old one from the engine,mark the flywheel to crank location.
I've got a way to do this using a "aviation" style tire balancer, when I get a chance I'll type it up ( basically it involves adding temporary weights to make them zero then use the weight value to match balance. ) |
#3
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Quote:
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#4
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Most of the engines use flywheels that are neutral.
Some though, do have flywheels that were needed to balance the cranks. After marking the fw before removing have it checked. If its neutral you can simply use a neutrally balanced fw in the new setup. If its not you'll have to have them match balanced and install the new fw in the same position on the crank.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#5
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Another option, but you'll need access to a hoist.
Every town of any size will have a balancing specialist who comes to a factory, etc. and balances stuff on-site. For example, if a shredder gets a new motor or other major component it may not balance up with the existing gearbox or whatever it bolts to. Anyhow, if you can get the vehicle up in the air with the engine running the balancing company can balance the assembly in place and they can take the weight off the flywheel if you give them access. Remember that if you ever need to remove the now-balanced flywheel you'll need to mark it's location so it goes back in the right place. We used these on-site balancing folks a lot in my dyno testing days. Sometimes we'd get a shake in the set-up and they saved our bacon more than once. Dan Last edited by Dan Stokes; 07-11-2014 at 09:20 AM. |
#6
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(1) Mark the FW and crank so you know the orientation of the old FW to the crank. Let's say you make the mark at the 3:00 position on each.
(2) Mount old and new FW on balancing machine as one assembly, facing the same direction. Balance the assembly ONLY removing material from the new FW. (3) Mark the new FW at the 9:00 position (i.e. 180 degrees opposite to the old FW). (4) Separate the two FWs, and now your new FW has been "match balanced" to the old. You also have the orientation marks on the crank and FW, so when you mount the FW, the balance of the FW/Crank/front harmonic balancer has been preserved.
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Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC Last edited by Maxbumpo; 07-11-2014 at 02:07 PM. Reason: Correction to setp (2), and correction to step (3). |
#7
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Wouldn't you need to place them 180 degrees apart and facing the same direction with respect to the orientation marks to get identical balancing? ....or perhaps placing them face to face is the same thing.....I am not sure.
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#8
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Quote:
Thanks for the correction. After thinking a bit more, if the old and new are back-to-back or face-to-face, then the new FW will be 180 degrees out of balance. They should be facing the same direction, BUT the orientation marks still need to be at the same clock position. Another key point is to make sure the bolt holes line up identically, so that you actually can bolt up the new FW so that the orientation marks on the crank to the FW match.
__________________
Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#9
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I think if you marke the Old Flywheel the mark should be targeted to go through the Diameter of one of the Bolt Holes to the Crank.
I think they would make it easier to mark accurately mark the New Flywheel.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#10
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Quote:
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#11
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So I was right the first time? Sheesh...
__________________
Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#12
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Quote:
(3) should read "Mark the new FW at the 9:00 position (i.e. 180 degrees opposite to the old FW). There still is the issue of lining up the bolt holes to ensure the new FW can be mounted correctly...
__________________
Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#13
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Yes!
__________________
Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#14
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My local machine shop match balanced the two 180 out and it worked wonderfully! I actually took awhile to find a shop that knew what I was talking about. I think it isn't done a whole lot anymore, except for forged cranks, where the material is harder. I had to call a local hot rod shop and ask where they get their match balancing done, and viola!
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72% 1992 FJ80 + 17% 1983 OM617 + 10% 85/87/92 4Runner + *Eclipse/GMC = 100% Truck (*<1%) Build Thread: http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/a-humble-fj80-om617-r151f-swap.759554/ |
#15
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pretty good chance its neutral so check it first.
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
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