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#1
08-09-2014, 03:26 PM
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220D Broken Head Bolt...
I began installing new valve stem seals on my 1972 220D today and found a surprise waiting for me under the valve cover.
One of the head bolts was broken off at the socket head and was just bouncing around in there along with the washer. The car runs well with no signs of a head gasket failure. I plan to finish replacing the valve stem seals today and button it back up, but what are my options regarding the broken head bolt?    
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#2
08-09-2014, 05:57 PM
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Remove w/ left handed drill. Replace, following torque instructions.
__________________
CC: NSA All things are burning, know this and be released. 82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin 12 Ford Escape 4wd You're four times It's hard to more likely to concentrate on have an accident two things when you're on at the same time. a cell phone. www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?
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#3
08-09-2014, 10:04 PM
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Using a drill is the most logical approach. Make sure you know what you are doing.
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#4
08-10-2014, 04:10 PM
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Be sure to use a left hand drill, you can get one at a parts store, it will turn it right out if you're lucky. Another options is just trying to walk the bolt around with a sharp punch and a hammer. It's unlikely that that there's any load or corrosion on the bolt to keep it from turning.
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CC: NSA All things are burning, know this and be released. 82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin 12 Ford Escape 4wd You're four times It's hard to more likely to concentrate on have an accident two things when you're on at the same time. a cell phone. www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?
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#5
08-10-2014, 08:10 PM
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I would pull the head. Without the head, there should be at least an inch of the bolt sticking out of the block. Remove it with a pipe wrench. It's a lot cleaner than drilling, and you will get a chance to clean up any other problems while the head is off. And given that one is fractured, it's a good idea to replace all of the bolts.
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#6
08-10-2014, 10:10 PM
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My Olds diesel did the same thing. Hammer and a punch removed bolt. Replaced with a new one. Was running good three years later when sold.
Nice Mercedes, had one like it.
__________________
 Present 1987 300SDL 1991 300SL 1990 560SEL 2001 ML320 Past 1969 200D 1979-82 1983 300SD 1984-85 1972 250C 1982-02 1995 S350 2011 1997 S320 2012
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#7
08-10-2014, 10:36 PM
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I was able to get all of the valve stem seals replaced yesterday and the car is running better than ever.
I will try to tackle the bolt soon and will report back. Something tells me it won't be easy.
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#8
08-11-2014, 11:54 AM
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Since the bolt is not under tension it may be pretty easy. I like the left hand drill approach.
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#9
08-11-2014, 01:18 PM
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Different Approach
I broke a bolt over the weekend and I was just telling someone this morning about how I would remove it. Weld a nut onto it.
Remove the bracket. Place a nut slightly smaller than the broken bolt on top of the broken bolt Weld via the center of the nut onto the broken bolt --- think of filling in the nut with weld. Use the appropriate sized socket and wrench to remove the broken bolt. Replace with new bolt.
__________________
daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior Cluster Needles Paint New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more
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#10
08-11-2014, 01:32 PM
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as others have suggested, I would:
-Punch then vice grips -Weld(if you know what you're doing) -Left handed drill No matter what you do, cover up everything else so you don't get debris in the valvetrain
__________________
$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges $110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges No merc at the moment
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#11
08-11-2014, 02:21 PM
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If you give me dimensions I should have a bolt in stock for it...used of course.
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.  [SIGPIC]..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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#12
08-11-2014, 10:36 PM
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This bolt is below being flush with the surface. I sometimes also weld a nut on and find the heating effect of the weld seems to help loosen the bolt even more.
In your case the break appears lower than the surface. so I would probably not try that approach myself. If my skill level where higher perhaps I might though. For example I have a wire feed gas mig. I still feel it may hopefully not take much pressure to back this bolt out by drilling and perhaps a simple extractor. I got a really good extractor set that is pretty complex a month ago. One of those cases where they had not been moving at the high asking price by the vendor so he really discounted the kits. Specific parts for all sizes of metric broken bolts including guides to centre the operations.
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