Bad ignition switch? Bad wiring? Bad ground? Starter solenoid issues!
Hi, here is the situation: I began to experience problems with my starter in the 240D over the last few months in which I would turn the key, and just get a single click. I had the battery checked out, and it was putting out 1000 amps no problem, so I assumed it was the starter. I took the starter in for rebuild, and then put it back in the car. The first few times I started the car after the rebuild it was like heaven: that starter engaged every single time, it was spinning fast, I hardly needed a glow.
Now, the old problem is rearing its ugly head again... turn the key and I get click. If I bang the starter with a hammer it engages on the next key turn. If I reduce my glow time to a second or two it usually spins, but then it takes more turns of the starter to get ignition. I had the battery checked again; still putting out 1000 amps. Is it possible that the new solenoid is just bad? The rebuilder says that I might have issues with the ignition switch or the wiring, and the solenoid isn't getting enough current. He said it might need up to 30 amps to engage the solenoid - anybody know if that is true? Seems high to me. I can't imagine that the ignition switch is designed to pass 30 amps, but I could be wrong. The rebuilder says that a common solution is to put in a relay: the ignition switch energizes the relay, the relay sends many amps to the solenoid, the solenoid contacts send hundreds of amps to the starter motor.
So, here's a question: how many volts should I see across a W123 starter solenoid when I turn the key to the start position? Anyone know how many amps it takes to kick the solenoid into the engaged position? Should maybe just order a good German solenoid from the dealer, and say the heck with the rebuild place?
Thanks,
Kurt
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- '79 240D - engine swap complete! Engine broken in! 28-31 mpg! Lovin' the ride!
- '86 190D (W201-126) - 2.5 NA engine, 5 speed, cloth interior, manual climate controls, 33-34 mpg (sold to forum member).
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