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Old 09-13-2014, 10:32 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
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Flat-towed 1985 300D w/ custom brackets

Last Labor Day we flat-towed our 85 300D (4500 lb GVWR) 505 miles to San Diego, behind our 2002 Town & Country (5800 lb GVWR, AWD w/ factory tow package). No problems performance-wise. The 300D tracked perfectly. We have an instant mileage display in the T&C, which showed ~21 mpg on flat land at 60 mph vs ~23 mpg normally. Thus, we saved ~$75 in diesel (26 mpg @ $3.85/gal), plus nicer to have the family in a single vehicle, as RV'ers do. I couldn't even tell the 300D was behind us other than a slight thump when braking, and kept wondering why a fool in an old diesel was tail-gating us. The minimal mileage drop showed that the engine and tranny were hardly taxed on flat land. On the steep climb up the I-5 Tejon Pass grade (4400 ft), I kept the speed to 45 mph to be safe, but the engine temp stayed fine, even on that 95 F day.

We were bringing the car to my son to swap with the 1984 300D which had a front-end problem (future post). I needed the minivan in case we needed to tow it back. It was nice to verify that the tow bar was an option.

To be safe, I disconnected the drive-shaft in the 300D. After removing all 6 bolts, I noticed I could have left 3 bolts and the rubber disk on the drive-shaft side. I wired it to the exhaust. In addition to the bolts, one must pry the drive-shaft forward aggressively to barely clear the inside tube on the differential's pinion. I read of concerns with the rubber disk failing and the car "pole vaulting" on the drive-shaft. Must have been other cars since impossible in my 300D. I re-installed the driveshaft at 4 am in a Walmart parking lot (nice to RV people) by driving one side on a curb and jacking the other. I towed with the engine idling the remaining way to the University. If I did again, I would leave the drive-shaft in and the engine idling the whole way. If you question that, RV'ers often install an electric pump which circulates the fluid in automatic cars so they don't have to remove the drive-shaft (or install a decoupling kit). I used temporary tow lights, plus turned the 300D running lights on after dark.

Finally, most wonder about the brackets. I have a Valley tow bar (1st photo), but not the brackets that came with it (disappeared on my car that was stolen). I found that trailer leaf hangers fit fine (have on another car), and surprisingly, the bolt holes fit the outer 2 bolts on the 300D bumper attachment. I did have to cut the sides down with a hacksaw. I tried just that bracket, but the sheet-metal is too weak and found it bent when braking, not helped by the long brackets and already being at an angle. I should have added a brace to keep the tow bar arms from spreading, since the bolts at the front of of the tow bar don't stop that. I later added a chain for that purpose. To pickup the 3rd bumper bolt (RollGuy suggestion in earlier thread), I installed a 1/4" th steel plate (also trailer spring part) behind the hanger bracket, as shown in the photo. It took hours to fit, grinding the sides down and cutting holes (not easy in 1/4" steel). It would have been better to start with a smaller plate.

Worked fine, but later at home I welded the two parts, using my $90 Harbor Freight flux-wire welder, which worked great (blue on reverse side showed full heat penetration). The last photo shows it welded and sand-blasted, ready for paint. It would help to add a little triangle brace towards the 3rd bolt, or a top plate, but the 1/4" steel seems fine as is. It is easy to remove the front bumper. Just unscrew the 3 nuts on each side and pull it out (leave rubber side covers on the car). Next time I need to tow, it is just bolt and go with these brackets.

BTW, I tow-bar'ed the 1985 car home from work ~5 yrs ago after the engine failed. I drilled holes in the bottom of the bumper to attach the same hanger brackets. I got it home, but found one aluminum bumper shock mount broken at the car side. Seems the tow bar pushed upward on the bumper when going up a curb and that aluminum bracket can't take much bending force. That is why I went with a "remove bumper" solution. I left the heavy 1985 bumper at home and switched bumpers in SD.

Attached Thumbnails
Flat-towed 1985 300D w/ custom brackets-valley-tow-bar.jpg   Flat-towed 1985 300D w/ custom brackets-bracket-car.jpg   Flat-towed 1985 300D w/ custom brackets-bracket-welded-sand-blasted.jpg  

Last edited by BillGrissom; 09-14-2014 at 09:19 AM.
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