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  #1  
Old 04-17-2002, 01:48 PM
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steering column lock and a key hard to turn//i did search

god i'm in a bad mood. i've read the threads on the subject and am not smart enough to absorb. first what i have learned. bad to have key not turn to #1 position. and the whole lock assembly is made up of three components. the tumbler - the item the key enters (?); the electrical switch; and lastly, the steering column lock. my question. can i remove a potentially failing steering column lock and toss it and not install a replacement. that would leave me with the tumbler and the switch /aka the item that has all the electrical connections. tumbler is cheap. switch too. comparitavely the steering column lock is pricy. would not be bothering you good people had i won the big game! thank you.

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Old 04-17-2002, 03:43 PM
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janko,

I cannot answer your question directly, but in my experience (pretty limited compared to a qualified MB mechanic) the tumbler section is the part that sees the most wear. It is pretty normal for the lock, when engaged, to put some load on the tumbler section so it is hard to turn. You have to turn the wheel slightly to unload the tumbler so the key turns easier. If that does not help, it may be the steering lock itself, unless the tumber is really worn. I have had the entire mechanism fail so that I could get the steering wheel unlocked but the starter would not engage. I replaced the assembly as a whole, figuring I did not want to get involved with the job again the next week to fix the next piece. In the end the the only part that really seemed worn out was the tumbler. Hope this helps, Jim

Edit: The car I replaced the mechanism on was my 190E, not a
Diesel, but I think the basic hardware is pretty similar.
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1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
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Old 04-17-2002, 04:40 PM
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I have also found in some cases it is just the key itself that is worn out. I know it sounds simple but sometimes the simplest things cause the most problems. Making a copy from the worn out one is not usually a good idea but if you have another key it's worth a try...or you can get one from an MB dealer. (assuming that it's the original ignition)
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Old 04-17-2002, 09:27 PM
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Here's the scoop:

Most likely, the tumbler is worn and no longer permitting you to turn the key. This is worse if you have a brass (replacement non MB key). If you do, get to a good indy or dealer and order a new key (or two) -- they are about $18. MB keys are steel, but do wear out eventually -- had to get a new one for the 220D this year.

Keep the MB key alone or with only a few other keys on a light ring, too -- a big bundle of heavy keys and other stuff hanging on the tumbler causes faster wear.

I'd also replace the tumber. Here's how:

Find a small hook or screwdriver you can get under the trim ring around the keyhole -- the inner one with the I, II, III marks on it. It's chrome, at least on all the ones I have. You will also need a 1.5mm dia stiff wire or jewelers screwdriver (available at Radio Shack, etc).

Insert key and turn to position 1 (steering unlocked, ignition off). Hook the trim ring and pull up to the key.

Turn key back to position 0 and remove key. Pull trim cylinder off. This reveals the lock slot/hole for the latch that holds the tumbler in place.

Insert wire or screwdriver, insert key, turn key to position 1, and pull key and tumbler out.

Put new key in tumbler (when you order a tumbler from MB by chassis # it will be identical to the original -- W123 and later chassis car tumblers are usually available from the US distributor and come with a new key. Older cars, and maybe some W123s will require ordering from Germany and DO NOT come with a new key).

Insert wire or screwdriver into new tumbler, turn to position 1, insert tumbler into lock, turn to position 0, remove wire or screwdriver. Tumbler will latch into place. Remove key and wire.

Replace trim cylinder, push down as far as it will go (it won't latch), insert key, turn to position 1, and push trim cylinder down.

Done.

You may need to remove the rosette, too, on some models -- it is held on the back by three bent tabs, and you may need to pull the instrument cluster out or take the bottom dash panel off. Not necessary on the W115, but I don't know about the others.

DO NOT wait until you cannot turn the key! You will have to take a dremel tool and grind out trim cylinder and tumbler -- takes my indy mechanic about 4 hours.

Peter

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