312D Mercedez-Benz Sprinter wont start - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Diesel911 · #16 11-19-2014, 11:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kibi

Diesel 911 thank you also for that observation that the diesel won't spray as long as the fuel pipe lines are not connected to the injectors.Then I have got 2 questions concerning that.can a finger be able to block the diesel pressure from the injector pump if the fuel lines are not connected to the injectors?.2.if the fuel lines are connected to the injectors and an injector is removed from the cylinder head where it is bolted ,when cranking am I supposed to see the diesel spraying or not.I think your contributions will help us start this vehicle soon,thanks a lot guys.

Never put your finger to block the flow from the Fuel Injection Lines. If Fuel gets injected into your skin it is more then extremely bad; it destroys the tissue.

At cranking there is not much fuel injected.

Kibi · #17 11-20-2014, 12:34 AM

Thanks Diesel911,then with that in mind it means the culprit might be wires from the injector pump to the computer box (ECU) as Stretch suggested.Coz the bus was running fine b4 showing the EDC light but with power,then switched off for a few minutes and refused to start thereafter.With that in mind it shows that its most unlikely for avehicle to develop a mechanical failure,but for a an electrical fault(wires,switches or sensors its possible)

Stretch · #18 11-20-2014, 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kibi

Yes I agree with you Stretch on that the problem might be with electricity surrounding the pump ,I called my son at home to give the number on the pump and the number is 029983231A , I am not sure if it will help to identify the pump and its a Bosch as I mentioned before. The pump has got two sensors ,the other one is on the side of the pump (black and rectangular in shape) bolted by 4 bolts to the pump and it has got 7 wires leading to the ECU ( computer box),the other one is at the back of the pump bolted by two bolts with only two wires also leading to the ECU I think.

That number doesn't help - there should be at least one on an ID tag riveted to the IP.

But whatever - I think a good check of the wiring is a great start. Start with simple continuity checks and progress to something more advanced referring to that FSM link might help.