Thanks for making and updating this thread. I'm about to embark on the same project on my 87, replacing the stock #14 head with a #17. Among its many faults the #14 has loud lifters, cam wear, leaks oil front and back, a couple of broken exhaust studs, leaking exhaust coupler between cyl 2 and 3, and leaves some cold pressure in the cooling system. Its currently going 210k miles.

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I hope whatever I can contribute may add value to the next person. The job is not difficult, but can be tedious. I also had a shop crane, this helped tremendously in removal and installation of the head, with the exhaust manifolds installed. Installation was the reverse of removal. Install exhaust bridge pipe/accordion and manifold to the head, torque and then install assembly as unit. With a crane or a second person, you can guide the head back onto the exhaust mounts and block. From there the only exhaust piece to install is the crossover pipe. No need to mess with turbo or any other exhaust piece unless you were planning to do a fix.

If you can move your prechambers from #14 to the new #17, do so completely with lock rings. Do not damage these on removal unless you have a replacement set as your older style fuel injectors screw into the lock rings rather than the prechamber itself. If your #17 is complete with prechambers and injectors + lines, you can just bolt the entire unit onto you engine. If you need a set of good later style prechambers and splined lock rings, I have a set available for sale, if interested PM me.

Best of luck!

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Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)

Thanks for the info and the offer. My #17 head is complete with prechambers, injectors, lifters, cam etc. The seller claimed it had been rebuilt recently prior to a crash. I'm curious to see if i notice much of a diff with angled injectors. I plan to put the injectors on the pop tester and see how they behave otherwise everything should assemble as is.

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Are you saying you're able to remove .97 prechambers without a slide hammer tool and adapter?

Sixto
MB-less

Sixto. Good point, if you are going to remove the prechambers then the slide hammer and adapter are recommended. I had the machine shop do that for me as they were moving all valves and adding new seals to the #17 head I installed, wont get into specific as to why I needed the lock ring tool, but a good investment if you will do this job.

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Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)

Nice thread. I've done this job twice on my '87 wagon, and I completely agree with leaving the turbo attached to the exhaust and the block, only remove the head/exhaust manifold.

My original #14 head was cracked and mixing coolant into the oil. I bought a #17 head with inclined injection, but it came without the injectors. While searching locally for a set of used injectors, I found a #20 head for sale. Bought that, had new valve guides installed and new valve stem seals, supposedly the same machine shop also pressure tested it for cracks and it passed the test. I installed it, and found that it pressurized the cooling system big time. It also had damage to two of the bores for the hydraulic lifters, which the shop didn't catch, so those two lifters would never fully pressurize.

Removed that head, installed the #17 head, found a set of used injectors that were overhauled / balanced by Greazer, and now she runs like a top.

Along the way, I decided to pressure test the heads myself. I pressurized the exhaust manifold, while submerging the head in a heated water tank. Confirmed the crack in the #20 head, and no leaks in the #17 head.

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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC