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Beru Glow Plugs = Unobtainium in the U.S.A. ???
I've looked and looked, but I can not find any Beru glow plugs for the '98 & '99 E300 Turbodiesel (606.962) anywhere in the U.S. The (supposed) U.S distributor has shown them as 'back ordered' since I first started looking in June.
The '98 & '99 E300 Turbodiesel's use a GN-948 glow plug, which has a different electrical connector than the GN-860's that are used in the '95 E300 (OM606.910) The Botch (typo intended) glow plugs are readily available, but I really don't want to use them due to the narrower hex section. The consensus seems to be that the Beru's have better QC and last longer too. It seems the only other choice would be to order Beru's from Germany via Fleabay - but that has it's own potential pitfalls. (No recourse against counterfeits / knock-off's.) The other choice would be to modify the wires with the older style ends, but that seems rather extreme. Does anybody have any suggestions? Has anyone been able to purchase any recently? Or am I just going to have to bite the bullet and go with Bosch? Crossing my fingers...
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Current rolling stock: 2001 E55 183,000+ Newest member of the fleet. 2002 E320 83,000 - The "cream-puff"! 1992 500E 217,000+ 1995 E300D 412,000+ 1998 E300D 155,000+ 2001 E320 227,000+ 2001 E320 Wagon, 177,000+ Prior MBZ’s: 1952 220 Cab A 1966 300SE 1971 280SE 1973 350SLC (euro) 1980 450SLC 1980 450SLC (#2) 1978 450SLC 5.0 1984 300D ~243,000 & fondly remembered 1993 500E - sorely missed. 1975 VW Scirocco w/ slightly de-tuned Super-Vee engine - Sold after 30+ years. |
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If you get the old Glow Plugs out and use a Never-seize type compound on the threads of the new Glow Plugs you should not have any of the corrosion issues that cause the originals to stick.
Also I believe People have said the originals that came with the Engine were Beru Glow Plugs. If that is true they are the ones that are snapping off. The other 2 issues that cause the Glow Plugs to get stuck are Carbon Buildup around the tip likely caused by worn Injector Nozzles or low Compression and Carbon getting past the sealing Shoulder on the Glow Plugs. No one has said what causes the Carbon to get past the sealing shoulder area. Guessing Plugs not tightened properly or their was some warping in the Cylinder head that causes it. Not unlike the warping that causes precombustion chamber sealing area leaks. None of the above problems are actually caued by the Glow Plugs themselves. You might try UK eBay for the Berus.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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Someone on the Forum must be using Bosch. Perhaps they can report on how they are getting a long with them.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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The Beru catalog recommends putting "mounting grease" (theirs, of course) on both the threads and the shaft. I would only hope that their recommended torque spec (22 Nm) was updated to reflect the lube on the threads. If that was the original *dry* torque spec, and they subsequently recommended the "mounting grease" without updating the torque spec, well... I think you get the idea. (!) Just as an FYI for anyone looking in the future, the Beru catalog also lists a "Failure Moment" of 45 Nm. So perhaps it may be a good idea to use a torque wrench set at 40-42 Nm as a 'limiter' while squeaking the old ones out. Thanks for the input!
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Current rolling stock: 2001 E55 183,000+ Newest member of the fleet. 2002 E320 83,000 - The "cream-puff"! 1992 500E 217,000+ 1995 E300D 412,000+ 1998 E300D 155,000+ 2001 E320 227,000+ 2001 E320 Wagon, 177,000+ Prior MBZ’s: 1952 220 Cab A 1966 300SE 1971 280SE 1973 350SLC (euro) 1980 450SLC 1980 450SLC (#2) 1978 450SLC 5.0 1984 300D ~243,000 & fondly remembered 1993 500E - sorely missed. 1975 VW Scirocco w/ slightly de-tuned Super-Vee engine - Sold after 30+ years. |
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With the EGR tube on my '98 gone, I can have the plugs accessible and changed in about 30 minutes. Since it's that easy, I have never bothered replacing all of them at once.
When I bought the car, I pulled and checked all of the plugs and then applied silver anti-sieze and reinstalled them with the proper torque. Since then, I have never had a problem replacing them as they go out. Call me crazy but I just use whatever brand of GP I can find. I have used Bosch, Beru, Autolite and NGK without problems. Here's a cross reference I found on line of all of the OM606 GP model numbers from manufacturer's around the world: ACDelco 118G BERU 0100226210 BERU 0100226235 BERU 0100226457 BERU 948MJ BERU GN948 BOSCH 0250201038 BOSCH 0250201048C CHAMPION CH177 DELPHI HDS354 DENSO DG-106 GENERALMOTORS 88900727 HKT B-082 HKT B-099 MARELLI UX17A MERCEDES 11592001 MERCEDES 11592101 MERCEDES 1592101 NGK DP16 NGK Y-925J NGK Y-925R OPEL 88900727 PSA 596035
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-Evan Benz Fleet: 1968 UNIMOG 404.114 1998 E300 2008 E63 Non-Benz Fleet: 1992 Aerostar 1993 MR2 2000 F250 |
#6
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I've always used Bosch in my 602's and had good success. Haven't had to replace any yet in my 606's but am interested if there's a compelling reason to choose one brand over another.
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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles 06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU 91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion 19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi Fourteen other MB's owned and sold 1961 Very Tolerant Wife |
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NGK always had a stellar reputation, at least according to the folks on every previous Mercedes discussion group I was on. People do not seem to like them here (bit of a moot point, given they are hard to find anyway).
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Mac 2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d “Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22 |
#8
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FWIW the MB dealer uses Bosch for our cars in the vast majority of cases (this according to the MB parts dept. in Midlothian, VA).
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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles 06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU 91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion 19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi Fourteen other MB's owned and sold 1961 Very Tolerant Wife Last edited by shertex; 12-31-2014 at 12:49 PM. |
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And that's a good confirmation that the anti-seize is doing it's job well. I would think it's probably a good idea to NOT apply it to the flared/conical sealing area. If that were to preclude a metal-to-metal seal with a small amount of goop between the surfaces, and then the goop later was melted out or displaced by combustion pressure, that tiny little gap could (theoretically) allow soot to get compacted into the bore space. Or am I overthinking it? Quote:
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Maybe I should look at the smaller hex head on the Bosch plugs as a "feature". It will be a torque limiter to avoid snapping the plug by rounding off the hex instead.
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Current rolling stock: 2001 E55 183,000+ Newest member of the fleet. 2002 E320 83,000 - The "cream-puff"! 1992 500E 217,000+ 1995 E300D 412,000+ 1998 E300D 155,000+ 2001 E320 227,000+ 2001 E320 Wagon, 177,000+ Prior MBZ’s: 1952 220 Cab A 1966 300SE 1971 280SE 1973 350SLC (euro) 1980 450SLC 1980 450SLC (#2) 1978 450SLC 5.0 1984 300D ~243,000 & fondly remembered 1993 500E - sorely missed. 1975 VW Scirocco w/ slightly de-tuned Super-Vee engine - Sold after 30+ years. Last edited by RunningTooHot; 12-31-2014 at 12:56 PM. |
#10
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In my 99, the PO replaced the plugs at 70k and car is now at 161k. He says "I use Beru as the Bosch seem to fail sooner."
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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles 06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU 91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion 19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi Fourteen other MB's owned and sold 1961 Very Tolerant Wife |
#11
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BTW I have found a parts supplier that has the Berus in stock. Since Pelican doesn't have them, is it kosher to say who it is?
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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles 06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU 91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion 19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi Fourteen other MB's owned and sold 1961 Very Tolerant Wife |
#12
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On my car, I have a resistor spliced into the MAF circuit to bypass that and a resistor/diode combination spliced into the wiring to bypass the EGR. For the anti-seize, I apply it to the threads and a tiny bit to the seal taper. My theory is that this minimizes the torque differential between the threaded section and the taper and allows the plug to seat better.
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-Evan Benz Fleet: 1968 UNIMOG 404.114 1998 E300 2008 E63 Non-Benz Fleet: 1992 Aerostar 1993 MR2 2000 F250 |
#13
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Good point on the torque differential. Note that Beru suggests putting the compound on both the threads and the main body (but obviously not the heated tip.) Thanks again - and I wish everyone a Happy & Healthy New Year!
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Current rolling stock: 2001 E55 183,000+ Newest member of the fleet. 2002 E320 83,000 - The "cream-puff"! 1992 500E 217,000+ 1995 E300D 412,000+ 1998 E300D 155,000+ 2001 E320 227,000+ 2001 E320 Wagon, 177,000+ Prior MBZ’s: 1952 220 Cab A 1966 300SE 1971 280SE 1973 350SLC (euro) 1980 450SLC 1980 450SLC (#2) 1978 450SLC 5.0 1984 300D ~243,000 & fondly remembered 1993 500E - sorely missed. 1975 VW Scirocco w/ slightly de-tuned Super-Vee engine - Sold after 30+ years. |
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1999 Mercedes E300TD daily driver sold at 238K miles 106K miles were mine, rust worm got it :-( 2006 Mercedes CDI new daily driver! 56,000 miles May 2016 now 85,625 Apr 2018 and Apr 2019 101,000 miles Apr 2020 109,875. March 2024 135,250 |
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I have used the typical Never-sieze Compounmd on all kinds of thing during the 18 years I was a Diesel Mechanic. 6 of those years was at the Naval Shipyard were we delt with a lot of corroded stuff. Unless an item is immersed in Water the Never-sieze keeps them from rusting/corroding more they they were when you got them and works great on high heat applications. I have also never seen the stuff cause any issue that could be traced to it as the cause. I have Never-sieze on my Glow Plug Threads as well as the Injector Threads. When I installed a new Exhaust Pipe and Catalytic Converter the Clams all got Never-seize on the Threads. It is also cheap and available at most Auto Part Stores
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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