My buddy Dave (he runs the local repair shop) came over and we decided that the S-10 needs glowplugs, even if manual ones. I've had to give it a shot of starting fluid to start when cold (starts right up after it runs a couple of minutes) and over time that isn't good. The plugs were there to hold in the squeeze but I pulled and cleaned all 5. Number 4 was a stinker but would have been easier if I'd pulled the throttle linkage - but I didn't. The rest were simple enough.

Anyhow, I then proceeded to find out that I must have tossed the wiring harness. I still have the controller harness and controller but the 5 circle connectors and their wires are elsewhere. So I built a new harness with 12 gage wire. Tomorrow I'll hook them up using just a Ford-style solenoid and a push button. I'll try "count to ten" and see how that works.

I have a solenoid coming that should make for automatic shutdown when the power is killed. I HOPE that gets here tomorrow but might be Monday - I'll have to wait and see.

Once I get all this hoo-ha hooked up I'll take pics and post them in my build thread.

Anyhow - a couple of questions:

1) Is the 12 gage wire big enough for the glowplugs? From what I remember it's way bigger than was in the stock harness but I'd like input.

2) I'm planning to run the power to the Ford solenoid with some (I think) 8 gage wire that I have. Any issue with that? It'll come off my terminal block on the right front fenderwell and run about 6 feet to the solenoid, so not too long of a run. Looking at the M-B controller, the wire I have is AT LEAST as big as the biggest wire going to the controller. Or should I just run battery cable?

Thanks

Dan

That is minimum spec.

IMO: Anything from 6 AWG - 12 AWG by code.

.

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1985 300SD
1983 300D
2003 Volvo V70

https://www.boldegoist.com/

I go by 300Dman over on Benzworld.
This thread has a pic some where in it on how I wired the Ford type Solenoid in My Volvo Diesel.
Manual Glow Plug Switch - Mercedes-Benz Forum

I also have posted a crude hand drawn wiring diagram on Benzworld and also at Peachparts several times. They might show up if you search for Volvo.

I have no idea what the S-10 GP system looks like or how it works.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

You can gestimate the wire size by looking at the old Wires.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Post 18 has the wiring diagram.
Manual Glow Plug "timer" switch

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thanks. That's exactly where I was going with this, showing that great minds think alike. (or dead brains like mine)

The S-10 GP system looks EXACTLY like a OM617! That's what I have in there.

Dan

FWIW: I have not had a lot of luck with the Ford Solenoid under constant usage. I have had one fail open and one arc shut (Short).

I put in an 80's GMC GP solenoid, and it has been good since.

__________________
72% 1992 FJ80 + 17% 1983 OM617 + 10% 85/87/92 4Runner + *Eclipse/GMC = 100% Truck
(*<1%)
Build Thread: http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/a-humble-fj80-om617-r151f-swap.759554/

My experiences:

Note that my conversion is an offroad/utility/zombie assault vehicle and some of my compromises are different than would be used for a straight race truck.

I used 4awg from the battery to a 100A fuse, then to Ford starter solenoid, then out to the engine where I ran 12awg wires less than a foot to each GP. It's worked fine.

I haven't had any issues(knock on wood), but do carry a spare solenoid and the tools to switch it out. Every single person I know who drives Fords that use this solenoid carries a spare solenoid for this reason. We can also jumper past it with jumper cables if needed.

Use spade terminals to connect to the GP's instead of ring terminals, then you only have to loosen that little bitty nut on the end instead of removing it entirely. Dropping one of those nuts may not be a huge deal on a smooth concrete shop floor. Changing a GP on gravel or with snow or mud on the ground so that you can start your truck in mind numbingly cold weather, and dropping one of those nuts becomes a much bigger deal.

One thing MBZ does with their wiring harness that I wish I had duplicated was run a separate conductor for each glow plug, instead of a main line to the motor and then branch out from there. Testing my GP's with a multimeter requires disconnecting each GP. With the Mercedes harness, you can just unplug a connector and test the GP's at the connector - much faster to track down a troubled GP. The wisdom of this system was brought to me last year when I had to diagnose and replace a faulty GP during lunch break with 8" of snow on the ground and more coming down.

Oh, and I ran in indicator light in the dash to tell me when the GP's are on because I used a toggle instead of a button or momentary switch. I power the indicator light from the output side of the solenoid, so it'll tell me when the GP harness is actually energized, not just when it SHOULD be energized.

__________________
617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

I learned a bit about the "Ford-style" solenoids by chatting with our "good" (Car Quest) parts store guys.

There are identical-looking solenoids that are made for momentary use (like for a starter) and for continuous use (like for a snow plow). The continuous ones are almost exactly twice the price at a shade over $40 US. We determined that for my use of about 10 seconds the momentary one should work fine (not unusual to crank a starter for 10 seconds or more). If it poops out I'll trade in the momentary one for a continuous-duty unit.

OM617 - like you, I tend to overkill everything. If some is good more is better. After looking it up on line, my #8 power wire and #12 wires to the glowplugs should be hunky-dorey. Remember, the coldest I'll be using this is about 50*F and I'm guessing that in warmer weather I won't need the GPs at all. I'm going to start with a 60 Amp fuse and see how that goes. My fuse holder will go up to an 80 amp. Wish I had a big ammeter!

So I THINK everything will be OK but I sure value everyone's input - especially folks who have slain this dragon.

Dan

50 degrees, you'll be juuuuuuuuuust fine.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

-x2 on the having a light off of the energized side. That's how I knew mine was shorted on! Talk about frantically going for the battery terminal! At first I thought the Momentary switch, that I use to trigger it, was stuck.

-The first Ford relay I had did last quite awhile; I pulled it from an 80's pickup in the yard (Maybe factory part; unknown). The second welded together in short order (~1 month; Cheap parts store product line.) The GMC one I'm currently using is the cheap parts store line:

(BWD GPR1 - Relay - Multi-Use | O'Reilly Auto Parts)

__________________
72% 1992 FJ80 + 17% 1983 OM617 + 10% 85/87/92 4Runner + *Eclipse/GMC = 100% Truck
(*<1%)
Build Thread: http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/a-humble-fj80-om617-r151f-swap.759554/

I have a system kill switch on the rear below the tail light (as required for tech) AND one in the dash. I can kill battery power in a second from outside OR inside the truck! I'll think about that light, though.

Dan

I forgot for a moment that yours is a race truck! I think I read this somewhere else, but does that mean that your vacuum solenoid for fuel cut-off is open when not energized?

__________________
72% 1992 FJ80 + 17% 1983 OM617 + 10% 85/87/92 4Runner + *Eclipse/GMC = 100% Truck
(*<1%)
Build Thread: http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/a-humble-fj80-om617-r151f-swap.759554/

I'm currently building a solenoid system that will act on the linkage, forcing the linkage to the "STOP" position when power is removed. The solenoid was pricey but dead simple with no point of failure. I'll post pics when done, probably today or tomorrow (I'm getting close).

I had built a vacuum system with a VW pump but it was ugly and complicated - hard to explain to the tech inspector.

Dan

The system in installed and working great. Pics and details are in my build thread.

Dan