Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #16  
Old 02-28-2015, 11:25 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: WV
Posts: 2
Mine has 95k miles, the R would wallow side to side over small bumps, and would need frequent steering coorection while driving. Don't believe the bounce test. Mine was fine and passed the bounce test. So after changing the front struts, the ride is firm, and it drives straight. I will have the rear replaced soon.

Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 03-02-2015, 08:09 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: ottawa, ontario, canada
Posts: 256
I run two stroke oil, TC-W3 non synthetic has lower ash content then diesel fuel itself from what I research, 1:200 is a good guideline but I am closer to 1:250. I also use plenty of fuel conditioners, PS white bottle, whatever else I can find on sale (usually contains Xylene, petroleum distillates, tri eythlene 1,2,4 something or other-avoid alcohol). I have owned it for 60k miles (08 R320 CDI), it has 120k total. I run the best fuel I can, usually 47-48 cetane. I change the oil at 6k mile intervals. I use an oil flush product every couple of oil changes. Why so often, I have done some research and the DPF regen cycle adds a ton of fuel through the engine, I don't like the idea of diluted oil, plus there is thought that the oil cooler seals are failing from excessive blow by, and longer intervals lead to more blow by as the oil degrades. There were also some talk of engine failures from oil sludge. I have noticed the oil starts to go down around 5-6k miles hence I change it rather then top up. I notice the same thing on our tdi VW, it will start to use oil once it gets to a certain mileage.
I have recently removed the EGR for inspection, it was clean without any buildup of carbon, nothing like the photos online!
I don't use ATF, it swells rubber parts I would not want to find out what is rubber in the 642 fuel system.
Yes to diesel purge, however it is impossible to run it off the can, there is an intank fuel pump and pressure sensors and such feeding the high pressure fuel pump. Prefill the new fuel filter with it, dump the rest in an empty fuel tank?
Change the air filters often, you will understand why once you have changed them a couple times 40k is way too long.
Now for biodiesel, B5 is the max according to warranty concerns. My understanding is the DPF regens and results in oil dilution, the byproducts of biodiesel are really bad for the engine internals and end up in there each cycle. Higher concentrations just make the problem worse. This is the only reason I have found that makes any sense, and usually what the dealers are blaming oil sludge on.
All North American 642 engines have a DPF.
Talk with any injection specialist and they will comment that fuel is dry, adding something to help will maintain your injectors and pumps. Parts are not serviceable on these engines, and at $4000 for a set of injectors, plus thousands more for pumps and sensors/rails you get the idea!
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 03-30-2015, 06:12 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 2
Good Advice

Quote:
Originally Posted by clacker View Post
I run two stroke oil, TC-W3 non synthetic has lower ash content then diesel fuel itself from what I research, 1:200 is a good guideline but I am closer to 1:250. I also use plenty of fuel conditioners, PS white bottle, whatever else I can find on sale (usually contains Xylene, petroleum distillates, tri eythlene 1,2,4 something or other-avoid alcohol). I have owned it for 60k miles (08 R320 CDI), it has 120k total. I run the best fuel I can, usually 47-48 cetane. I change the oil at 6k mile intervals. I use an oil flush product every couple of oil changes. Why so often, I have done some research and the DPF regen cycle adds a ton of fuel through the engine, I don't like the idea of diluted oil, plus there is thought that the oil cooler seals are failing from excessive blow by, and longer intervals lead to more blow by as the oil degrades. There were also some talk of engine failures from oil sludge. I have noticed the oil starts to go down around 5-6k miles hence I change it rather then top up. I notice the same thing on our tdi VW, it will start to use oil once it gets to a certain mileage.
I have recently removed the EGR for inspection, it was clean without any buildup of carbon, nothing like the photos online!
I don't use ATF, it swells rubber parts I would not want to find out what is rubber in the 642 fuel system.
Yes to diesel purge, however it is impossible to run it off the can, there is an intank fuel pump and pressure sensors and such feeding the high pressure fuel pump. Prefill the new fuel filter with it, dump the rest in an empty fuel tank?
Change the air filters often, you will understand why once you have changed them a couple times 40k is way too long.
Now for biodiesel, B5 is the max according to warranty concerns. My understanding is the DPF regens and results in oil dilution, the byproducts of biodiesel are really bad for the engine internals and end up in there each cycle. Higher concentrations just make the problem worse. This is the only reason I have found that makes any sense, and usually what the dealers are blaming oil sludge on.
All North American 642 engines have a DPF.
Talk with any injection specialist and they will comment that fuel is dry, adding something to help will maintain your injectors and pumps. Parts are not serviceable on these engines, and at $4000 for a set of injectors, plus thousands more for pumps and sensors/rails you get the idea!
This is good advice. I would add a couple of simple things.
Engine oil has gotten to be very confusing. Europe has its own spec on oil. Oil that is rated "E9" is the toughest. It is extended service. Turbocharger & DPF approved. I like Redline's 15W/40 Diesel oil. It is ester and E9. Change it every 5000 miles. No additives, because they mess up the DPF. Fuel dilution is a major problem.
Change the Air Filters every 15000 miles. Dirty air filters on the OM642 will cause excessive crankcase pressure. The filters are actually very dirty in 15000 miles.
The "Oil Separator" will need to be replaced at about 60000 miles. There is a thin rubber diaphragm inside that splits open and dumps oil into the Turbo air intake. The part has been updated many times by MB. When a part number has been superseded many times, it is a major clue that the part is a known problem. Generally speaking, the seventh & eighth numbers in the part number is where to look. Each time MB changes the part they add one number. e.g. 01, 02, 03 ect. This not always 100% true, but very common.
Blow-by is the big problem. Anything that reduces Blow-by is good.
Never use Bio-diesel!
The Turbo is exhaust driven. It gets stupid hot. If you let the engine idle for 15 seconds before shut down, it gives the turbo a chance to cool off. If you shut it off as soon as you stop, the heat in the turbo "cracks" the oil molecules. It's called "Coking". If you drive in the mountains, the turbo should have a Garrett oil pump installed to pump cooling oil through the turbo until cooled down. (Garrett made the turbo for MB. MB went cheap and didn't buy the turbos with a oil pump.)

Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:42 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page