How do you safely charge the battery in a 98 e300d? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

83w126 · #1 02-14-2015, 04:46 PM

I am pretty sure there is air in the fuel lines because it wouldn’t start after sitting in the driveway over night. It was running before though, so I rolled it out in the street and have been trying to get it started, but the battery is starting to die. I am not sure what to do now, because if I understand correctly, either charging the battery with it connected or leaving it out of the car for too long will cause all kinds of other problems (reprogramming keys, potentially triggering the anti theft system, etc).
I am really kinda frustrated, I spent $5k on this car and only put about 900 miles on it, and now I don't think I have the skill to get it running again, and I don’t have thousands of dollars to throw at a shop, so I am likely going to have to sell it as a parts car and lose several thousand dollars. I probably should have kept my 300SD, it wasn't that great either, but at least it always stayed running.

shertex · #2 02-14-2015, 05:27 PM

I am not aware of any difficulties in connecting a battery charger to the car. You can jump start the car...why wouldn't you be able to charge it? Look in your manual and you will see where to hook the leads in the engine compartment.

jay_bob · #3 02-14-2015, 08:10 PM

Agreed. Connect a battery charger on standard rate (~ 10 A) to the + terminal and the rear engine lifting lug. The + terminal is in a black cube on the left side of the engine bay near the fuse box. It has a + on the cover that lifts up and reveals a brass stud.

Or just pop out the back seat cushion and go directly across the battery.

Let it go about 8 hours or so.

Tomorrow:

If you can, push the car so that the front is lower than the rear. That will help gravity do its job to get fuel from the tank. Check to see if any fuel is leaking from the low pressure side of the system and correct that. You may have to put the car back on the flat again to avoid getting a bath in fuel if you end up separating the lines to fix any issues. Remember that the low pressure fuel line connectors have a white clip. This clip should not be pushed all the way to the end of its travel, that is the "release" position. The clip should be left in the middle of its travel, it will float back and forth.

Remove the plastic cover over the top of the engine (8 Allen head screws 6 mm IIRC).

Using a 14 mm open end wrench, carefully loosen the nut on the top of each injector about a half turn.

Have a friend crank the car. 20 seconds max, rest for 60 seconds between tries, wait 5 minutes between groups of 3 tries. That is the most conservative regimen to avoid harming the starter.

While cranking, watch the joint between the fuel line and the nut at each injector. As soon as you see fuel coming out steadily tighten each nut back down. You have to do this to release the trapped air between the delivery valve and the injector. Otherwise the trapped air will not let any fuel get to the injector. Don't worry if you can't get through all of them in one crank cycle, that is ok. Once you have purged a high pressure line, it will stay purged as long as you don't introduce air back in the system from the low pressure side. Hence why you have to fix the low side first.

These really are great cars, don't give up on it! I bought mine in March 2013 and have since put 25k miles on it, I am up to 221k.

dieseldiehard · #4 02-14-2015, 08:26 PM

Jay Bob's advise is correct.
I would not jump start the car from the under the hood + terminal though, it looks too small to carry the starting current not to mention the glow plug current. Its useful if you plan to replace the battery or charge the battery. I've used a small gel cell connected the brass hex terminal just to keep electronics alive while disconnecting the battery under the back seat.
Also, I suggest charging the battery overnight, putting a big jumper clip on the battery + terminal is dangerous because its close to the cross member that is grounded, sparks can fly if you slip (don't ask me how I know!)
83W126 I sent you a PM (private message) but never heard back. If you need some help I maybe close enough to drop by, etc. look for your messages or send me your tel# if you wish
Reid

shertex · #5 02-14-2015, 08:47 PM

I too would encourage you to push through this obstacle. I have two of these cars and, other than a few quirks and minor issues, have had a combined total of 29,000 trouble-free miles since I bought them.

83w126 · #6 02-14-2015, 08:52 PM

I ended up just jumping it from under the hood and I got it to start, so I went and filled the tank and parked it on flat ground, so hopefully it will start easily next time. Tomorrow I think I will pull the intake and swap the 2 fuel lines that are leaking, and hopefully not find anything else broken. I think if I am going to keep it I need to change the transmission fluid before I do much more, because the transmisson doesn't work quite right when its cold, and I for sure can't afford to rebuild it.

shertex · #7 02-14-2015, 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 83w126

I think if I am going to keep it I need to change the transmission fluid before I do much more, because the transmisson doesn't work quite right when its cold, and I for sure can't afford to rebuild it.

Your 98 still has a drain plug for the torque converter....you will be able to replace close to 8 quarts.

biopete · #8 02-14-2015, 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieseldiehard

Jay Bob's advise is correct.
I would not jump start the car from the under the hood + terminal though, it looks too small to carry the starting current not to mention the glow plug current. Its useful if you plan to replace the battery or charge the battery. I've used a small gel cell connected the brass hex terminal just to keep electronics alive while disconnecting the battery under the back seat.
Also, I suggest charging the battery overnight, putting a big jumper clip on the battery + terminal is dangerous because its close to the cross member that is grounded, sparks can fly if you slip (don't ask me how I know!)
83W126 I sent you a PM (private message) but never heard back. If you need some help I maybe close enough to drop by, etc. look for your messages or send me your tel# if you wish
Reid

That's what that terminal is there for under the hood. As well as supplying power for test equipment. It says in the owners manual. I jump it from there all the time. Also , I've always taken the battery out of the car to charge it. You may need the radio code. I've never had any problem with keys or immobilizers or anything. If you do, something else is wrong. I don't want a battery blowing up in my backseat, not likely but every manual always says remove battery from car.

jay_bob · #9 02-14-2015, 11:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shertex

Your 98 still has a drain plug for the torque converter....you will be able to replace close to 8 quarts.

Correct, search the forums for the proper procedure. It requires a specific MB spec fluid. Do not put regular ATF in this transmission! It is the wrong viscosity and it will ruin the transmission.

You will also need a special "dipstick tool" because the car comes with no dipstick in the filler tube.

MB made it a little more difficult than it needs to be since the original design intent was that the transmission was going to be "sealed for life". Yeah not so much. The revised recommended change interval is about every 50k.

83w126 · #10 02-15-2015, 12:18 AM

I found the dipstick tool for $35 so I already got one, and the filter, gaskets, etc. The fluid is $$$$ from the dealer, and most other places seem to only sell it by the case of 6, so I hadn't figured out what to do on that yet though.

shertex · #11 02-15-2015, 02:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 83w126

I found the dipstick tool for $35 so I already got one, and the filter, gaskets, etc. The fluid is $$$$ from the dealer, and most other places seem to only sell it by the case of 6, so I hadn't figured out what to do on that yet though.

Find a Shell distributor. You can pick up a case of 12 Shell ATF 134 for about $70.

bsmuwk · #12 02-15-2015, 04:40 AM

There will only be potential issue with the key's rolling codes/immobilizer if the key is in the ignition (engine off, key in any position) and you jump the car (with yours having dead battery). As long as the key is out and in your pocket when you give the car a voltage spike, you'll be pretty much guaranteed of not having any issues.

For future FYI: if your car is the car to be jumped, jumping via the terminal in the engine bay is OK...that's what it's there for. The battery cable system is more than adequate for any sort of 12V testing, jumping, charging, etc. Anything otherwise is paranoia.

How do you define the transmission not working "quite right when cold"?

83w126 · #13 02-15-2015, 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shertex

Find a Shell distributor. You can pick up a case of 12 Shell ATF 134 for about $70.

The only ones I can find are selling a case of 6 for $70. Do you know of a place to get it cheaper?

As far as the transmission acting strange, if it is cold (like below 40 degrees) and the car has sat over night, when you take off from a stop the car will rev up then clunk into gear rather than taking off smoothly, then when it shifts it makes a humming sound. Its not extremely noticeable but enough that it for sure shouldn't do that. Then after about 10 minutes of driving its fine, and if its warmer outside and the car hasn't been sitting all night it doesn't happen at all. Which is also why I didn't know it did this before I bought it.

shertex · #14 02-15-2015, 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 83w126

The only ones I can find are selling a case of 6 for $70. Do you know of a place to get it cheaper?

Dennison Lubricants Welcome to Dennison Lubricants, the premier oil and lubricants distributor, manufacturer and marketer for the New England area is where I got mine in late October. I paid 74.45 including UPS shipping for a case of 12. Others have found similar deals at different distributors.