Im trying to take the motor out of a 300d but i cant figure out how to remove the motor mounts from the frame. I would prefer to leave them attached to the motor so i can attach a chain to them when pulling the motor out of the car

Repair Links Fast navigation
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/146034-fast-navigation-do-yourself-links.html

In the Repair Links is info on changing the Motor Mounts will give a better idea.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

There are 2 allen-head screws on each mount, by each "ear". You need a set of metric "allen sockets" and some long extensions, usually 3/8" drive. I recall you can get a straight shot down at each bolt, on both sides. The trickiest thing is to not round out the heads, so get quality sockets, spray w/ penetrating oil, and work back & forth to work any rust out of the bolt threads.

Whenever I'm removing a allen head bolt, I make sure to use a dental instrument type tool to clean out all the grease/dirt/grime so the allen wrench seats properly in the bolt. That I spray the head with pb blaster and dry it with a paper towel.

I didn't do this one time when I was remover the vacuum pump and ended up rounding the inside. I had to remove the ac compressor in order to get some vice grips on the bolt.

I was so pissed at myself for not taking the time to clean the allen bolt head. It took my many hour to redo the ac after removing the compressor.

The transmission cooler line usually always have dirt/grime in the heads.

pete

be sure to unbolt the engine shocks - the shafts have a little flat spot where you can put a 7mm open end to keep them from spinning while you loosen the nut underneath.

See the pic. If the Allen Head Wrench is flat on the end it allows more of the Hex to make contact with the Allen Bolt and less likely to strip the Bolt Head.

Attached Thumbnails

   

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Great point. I need to make sure I have the flat head allen wrenches.

Thanks for the pics.

pete

Pound the allen head in a little to seat it after you have cleaned the head and sprayed with something to loosen the rust. Note: WD 40 is water disperser, not a rust eater or lubricant. Think Kroil or PB Blaster. Do not skip this step.

Your engine shock mounts are also likely shot. They are expensive for what they are but can be refurbished. The engine shocks themselves are likely OK. Remove and examine before ordering parts.

Edit: you will want to put new gaskets in every place you can get to while the engine is out. Include the oil filter housing, remove the manifold on the passenger's side down to the long block, do the oil oan and turbo drain - everything. Elring makes a gasket set that had all of the parts & seemed to seal my 617. Use "The Right Stuff" in small amounts where appropriate. There is a thread "leak free 617" or similar that I used for inspiration.

A Source of Mercedes information on youtube has a vid showing where the trans leaks. I would research & at least freshen the trans and stop the leaks while it was out. Perhaps seal the turbo while it is in your hand. Adjust the waste gate upon installation.

__________________
85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

From your post, let's clarify what you are trying to remove. It sounds like you are trying to remove the motor support arm and not the rubber mount. The rubber mount is between the support arm and the chassis.

MB provided access holes underneath to ease removal but, as others have mentioned, ensure the hex cap screws are nice and clean to avoid stripping them out.

__________________
Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )