Motor Mounts W123

[preese47]

Need to know if motor mounts are the same/ or interchangeable for the turbo/NA on W123 models?

[Zacharias]

Yes they are.

Lemforder (also sometimes available branded as Phoenix, which is who actually makes them) is the preferred brand, unless you want to repeat the job in 6-12 months (or less, in some peoples' experience).

[vstech]

Be sure to get left and right sides... Not two of one side...

[Zacharias]

Originally Posted by vstech

Be sure to get left and right sides... Not two of one side...

There are no longer separate right and left part numbers for the w123 mounts. One part number for both sides.

[preese47]

Thanks guys,
Good to know, makes it easier to shop.

Pat

[Diesel911]

On a Turbo W123 Phoenix makes the Mounts the Mercedes Dealer Sells for over $100 each; Lemförder/Lemfoerder/Lemforder grinds off the Mercedes Star but the Phoenix Logo is still there and boxes them; all are made in Turkey.

[BillGrissom]

Consider filling the open cavity w/ liquid urethane or such (many posts). I used black polyurethane caulk (Home Depot), but give it 6 mo to fully cure. I just installed one yesterday on my 1985 since it was sagging after 2 years. I planned later, but had the wheel off, so went ahead. The p.s. belt was getting a little close to the oil cooler line to suit me. You can judge the sag by seeing how far the big allen bolt's head (upward from the bottom, center) is to the frame. Should be >1/2" gap. If the head is sticking out the hole, they are very sagged. It is fun getting all 3 bolts started and tightening the bolt next to the block. The designers could have been more thoughtful.

[mach4]

If you use a pourable two part urethane (Shore A 30) it sets in a couple hours and can be installed the next day. Still good after 70k miles.

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by BillGrissom

Consider filling the open cavity w/ liquid urethane or such (many posts). I used black polyurethane caulk (Home Depot), but give it 6 mo to fully cure. I just installed one yesterday on my 1985 since it was sagging after 2 years. I planned later, but had the wheel off, so went ahead. The p.s. belt was getting a little close to the oil cooler line to suit me. You can judge the sag by seeing how far the big allen bolt's head (upward from the bottom, center) is to the frame. Should be >1/2" gap. If the head is sticking out the hole, they are very sagged. It is fun getting all 3 bolts started and tightening the bolt next to the block. The designers could have been more thoughtful.

Was this with Lemförder/Lemfoerder/Lemforder Motor/Engine Mounts?

[SeattleE300D]

I suggest replacing the transmission mount while you're at it and have the engine lifted up off its foundations. Just a suggestion. My mechanic has always recommended replacing all three mounts at the same time.

[yuke]

Originally Posted by BillGrissom

Consider filling the open cavity w/ liquid urethane or such (many posts). I used black polyurethane caulk (Home Depot), but give it 6 mo to fully cure. I just installed one yesterday on my 1985 since it was sagging after 2 years. I planned later, but had the wheel off, so went ahead. The p.s. belt was getting a little close to the oil cooler line to suit me. You can judge the sag by seeing how far the big allen bolt's head (upward from the bottom, center) is to the frame. Should be >1/2" gap. If the head is sticking out the hole, they are very sagged. It is fun getting all 3 bolts started and tightening the bolt next to the block. The designers could have been more thoughtful.

How true in tne process of engine removal took me about 3 hrs. just about every tool and trick I could think of to get the 2 little allen bolts going downward out just on the drivers side am hopeing passenger side will go quicker. On reinstall I am thinking about replaceing allen bolts with hex bolts to be able to put a wrench on and also grinding the metal holder so you can see the bolts better when removining or installing. I think the designers did not want the diy's working on these cars.

[BillGrissom]

Diesel911,
I bought all mounts via ebay or rock for ~$10 ea, so unlikely they were Lemforder (recall some Anchor boxes). I put 2 polyurethane filled ones on my 1984 maybe a year ago, and no noticeable sag since. As I recall, the driver's side one on my 1985 had the bolt head ~1/4" from the frame hole, which might still be OK, but I already had a filled one ready to go and the tire off. Nothing new, people have been filling motor mounts for decades, ever since they started making them w/ cavities. Many use silicone RTV caulk, but I think polyurethane is more rugged and sticks better. The factory design is probably best for impressing potential customers on test drives, but not for longevity.

yuke,
Best to buy a set of metric allen key sockets. I doubt there is room for a hex head and socket. The outer top bolt is fairly easy w/ a U-joint and a long 3/8" extension (mine is 24" L). I got the inner bolt out the same way, but re-installing had to use an allen wrench w/ wobble end. That was driver's side. Last time I did passenger side, I had the engine bracket off for a weld repair, so was easy to get the bolts in. Leave loose until the engine is resting on the mount.

[tuna]

Use the mounts for a 1977 6.9 and they will out last the car. They are the same size but 10 times stronger. You can only get genuine MB.

[biopete]

Originally Posted by BillGrissom

Diesel911,
I bought all mounts via ebay or rock for ~$10 ea, so unlikely they were Lemforder (recall some Anchor boxes). I put 2 polyurethane filled ones on my 1984 maybe a year ago, and no noticeable sag since. Nothing new, people have been filling motor mounts for decades, ever since they started making them w/ cavities. Many use silicone RTV caulk, but I think polyurethane is more rugged and sticks better. The factory design is probably best for impressing potential customers on test drives, but not for

And now all the newer 1990s plus cars have filled mounts from the factory. Vw, Mercedes , probably others. what do they fill them with?

[Mölyapina]

I thought that the motor mounts were hollow to help the engine slide under -- instead of into -- the car in an accident. Would filling them help compromise that?