New to Me EUROBENZO 1986 300d - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

disqo · #16 04-26-2015, 12:38 PM

I would think they left the original flywheel when they swapped the trans unless there was a bigger problem. The car also felt fine to me during the test drive and compared well to my 300TD manual swap that I did with the correct flywheel. I don't know about the A/C compressor, but I have seen those rubber rings used to space A/C lines from other parts of the car. I presume it is to prevent wear through from vibration. The oil cooler lines looked a little wet when I looked at the car and the motor mounts were pretty collapsed. I was thinking I would replace both if I had bought the car.

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disqo · #17 04-26-2015, 12:49 PM

See pic for rubber spacer ring position.

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pj67coll · #18 04-26-2015, 12:52 PM

The thing you are trying to ID is in the correct location for an A/C compressor. Could be an aftermarket one as it's a Euro car and may not have had one from factory. A/C was not standard in Europe in those days. You can still find many 123's and even 116's for sale in Germany and Britain with no A/C.

The grommet thing is used to provide protective spacing around A/C lines.
You can see on on the A/C line on the left in this pic of my 240D's battery area.

- Peter.

rjz5400 · #19 04-26-2015, 01:02 PM

thanks guys, i knew i had seen those before, ill stick it back where it goes. and yes it is aftermarket compressor. from Davia I think. I was trying to see if it was a Sanden as it doesn't look like an R4 and thats the only one I am familiar with.

Yes I spotted the MM and I am going to be replacing the oil cooler lines on both cars soon enough. probably wait till next oil change.

KJenkins · #20 04-26-2015, 07:09 PM

I believe the compressor is a Seiko from Japan. I just bought a euro 300d with a five speed getrag and it has the same diavia kit that you have.

rjz5400 · #21 04-26-2015, 08:44 PM

I believe you are correct, I just this second googled the number from the picture and found this

http://http://www.transteksystem.it/es/audi/1164-seiko-seiki-ss170psv3-13449.html

These seem rare? Well good to know and at least they are still in business.
Progress continues and I'll be making a big order for parts tonight.

rjz5400 · #22 05-02-2015, 10:41 AM

update, i started work on the hinge pocket repair, a little cleaning, Ospho, and some fiberglass. I removed the spring and the under dash area, but i left the hood and hinge in place.

See the pictures, from the inside, outside and my special tool!! I did three layers of mat with a base resin and I plan on spraying white rustoleum flex stopleak in white, as backup and for cosmetics. Will try to get pics again.

I also cleaned the heck out of the area on both sides with a wire and with compressed air. I drilled a hole in the drain plastic also but I think ill just go back and cut that knob right off at the bottom.

Oh yea I forgot I ordered the stuff to refresh the cooling system, rad cap, thermostat, gaskets,coolant bypass hose and all. I also got all new copper fuses a few o-rings, the oil filter gaskets (o-ring, block, and half seal), both the sender and level sender o-ring for the fuel tank, the filler neck body seal, exhaust doughnuts, Shifter bushings,braided fuel lines (return and supply) and oil/air filters.... plus some stuff I am forgetting, OH Yea the dang vacuum line from the pump to the BB. pretty cheap really like 27$

disqo · #23 05-02-2015, 11:07 PM

Great progress!

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rjz5400 · #24 05-07-2015, 12:15 PM

Well I have made a couple more trips to seal up the car. I am going to separate the progress as the forum logs me off on my phone sometimes.
See pics, includes passenger side and battery tray repairs also. Found more trouble when poking around, glad I did!! I think I have treated and sealed up all the rust x2 see the rust oleum leak deal that I ADDED on top of the fiberglass and resin first layer.

This is where the drains meet, the hinge pocket to the engine compartment.

Also got my new brake release handle in the photo

rjz5400 · #25 05-07-2015, 12:20 PM

Next up is the EGR removal. Won't go into too much detail as it is covered in another thread

And setup and painting of air cleaner

rjz5400 · #26 05-07-2015, 12:32 PM

Lastly and most exciting!!! See the removal of the passenger side under dash and kick panel to facilitate drying and fiberglass repair

See what is revealed?!? The blower, HAH so even though it is factory non ac the fan is off near the normal place, thanks davia.

For posterity, I haven't taken it out yet as it is working fine, when I have more time I will and check the contacts, brushes, and oil/grease bearings as called for. I did notice it looked Very similar to my old 240d blower which I repaired easily.
This is the best part, I (and I assume disqo) heard a terrible rumble and vibration, and smelled burning rubber/plastic when using the fan above 1.
I thought I was either trashed or the housing was melted from hot coolant as the owner a while back had bypassed the heater core. I assumed it leaks badly into the car. So I was very pessimistic.

This is what I found inside the blower housing, a rubber deflector! I assume to divert either inside or fresh air for the ac system. I removed it through the hole it was meant to flap over.

Problem solved, high speed air blasts through all proper outlets, silent, no smell. I couldn't have been happier about how that turned out

Maxbumpo · #27 05-07-2015, 04:38 PM

Thermostat: I don't recommend driving without the t-stat installed. MB cooling systems are not like many, where removing the t-stat causes full coolant flow through the radiator. The opposite can and does occur, you get no flow through the radiator, and the engine overheats. Some have gotten lucky and did not overheat, others not so lucky.

I wouldn't sweat the replacement transmission, I really doubt they would have replace the flywheel at the same time.

I had an '85 Euro 123.190 with a five speed manual trans, I think the best I ever got was a 0-60 of about 15 seconds. Your car is lighter, may be a little faster than that when everything is correct.

The pre-filter looks like microbial growth in the fuel tank is an issue.

rjz5400 · #28 05-07-2015, 05:15 PM

The plan for the cooling is after a degreasing (shout) and a citrus flush I am going to replace the bypass hose, block gasket, thermostat, radiator drain, radiator cap, and of course new 50/50 Zerex. The fan clutch seems fine and the pump isn't leaking so I am going to see how she does after that. I saw how bad it was when I pulled the thermostat and decided to just do the whole thing.

About the fuel system; I am hoping it isn't lots of poly in the tank as that would be the hardest to remove.(evidence of WVO use) I got in my 46mm socket to pull the strainer and the sender. So I'll have more specific info soon.

I did shock the hell out of it by adding to the full tank some STARTRON and later some full strength power service cetane boost, (grey bottle) into the intake slowly, but mostly into the tank. This followed by both highway driving/thrashing and some idling. Then it has sat for some time as I am completely redoing the cooling system. I'll take a peek and then decide what to do. Hopefully I can just pull the screen and level sender for a light cleaning, then both new fuel filters and gtg.

disqo · #29 05-07-2015, 09:33 PM

I'm glad to see the car went to such a good home. You definitely have more time to put into it than I do. Holler if you ever get up to Raleigh.

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Maxbumpo · #30 05-08-2015, 10:21 AM

"Star Tron" is not a biocide, may not help if you have microbial growth in your fuel tank. It does advertise de-watering properties, which helps (the colony needs water to live in while it eats the fuel at the interface). Visit a marine goods store in your area, like West Marine, they should carry a biocide that will do the trick.