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  #1  
Old 05-16-2015, 10:59 PM
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Using the inj. pump locking pin

Can someone explain how this is used? I assume you put it in when installing a serviced pump to keep it from moving? What about when removing it?

I was wondering if you could put it in before removal (not sure how though) so you can put the pump exactly back in place by locking it again before installing, to keep the timing perfect? I guess Im paranoid about not being able to set timing as perfect as it was.

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Old 05-17-2015, 12:17 PM
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I saw this yesterday and I was actually hoping someone else would answer.
I did not spell check the below stuff you will have to deal with typos and or spelling errors.

You also need to have an IP that has the Port for the Tool; it has a Plug with a 17mm Head on it. If you don't have that you cannot use the Tool.

First look at the pic and see how the Timing Locking Pin works. You see it locks the Governor inside the IP in a specific Positon and the Governor is connected to the Fuel Injection Pump Camshaft.

The Timing Locking Pin has a slot on each end of the spring loaded Plunger. The slot on the fat end that goes into the Fuel Injection pump catches on a blade like proection on the Governor (you have to turn the IP Camshaft in the proper direction).

The slot that you can see from the out side needs to be oriented horisontal/parallel to the ground. They you Rotate the Fuel Injection Pump Camshaft by way of that front splined Gear clockwise till it locks into the Timing Locking Pin. Don't rotate the Camshaft anti-clockwise or clockwise any more. Put the IP on a Bench someplace where no one will touch it.

Rotate your Engine by the Cranksaft Bolt Clock wise till it is coming up on the Compression Stoke. Insead of stoping at X degrees Before Top Dead Center you continue to OT (Top Dead Center/Zero) on the Crank Shaft Damper and go past OT and stop at 15 Degrees After Top Dead Center (ATDC). Don't turn the Crankshaf anti-clockwise; if you do start over turning the Engine Clocwise.
Note that the ATDC Timing Spec info should be on the Emission Sticcker. On on Some Vehicles it is 14.5 ATDC so you need to check.

You Pick up the IP and stick it into the Engine so that the Studs that go through the Fuel Injection Pump to mount it are centered into the (Kidney) Slots. And, you install the Nuts and tighen it up. And the IP is installed.

Then you need to remove the Timing Locking Pin and replace the Plug that covered the Port the Timing Locking Pin went into.

So that is how the Timing Locking Pin was made to be used.

If you want to do it they way you ask you are going into unknow territory.

You would need to install the Timing Locking Pin as I described with the exterior slot horizontal/parallel to the ground.

By Hand Only!!! You rotate your Engine Clock wise extremely slowly untill you feel a slight resistance caused by the Timing Locking Pin locking.

The tricky part is that the Blade projection on the Governor and the groove in the Timing Locking Pin are small and part of the reason the Spring is built into the Tool is so that it can be compressed incase someone left the Tool in by mistake. That means that it is possible while turing the Engine too fast to go past the locking area.

You can go past the locking area by turning the Engine too fast because even though you are turning slow there is a lot of intertia.

It also is going to be easier and more sensative if you remove the Glow Plugs so you don't have to fight compression.

That is the best I can do.
Attached Thumbnails
Using the inj. pump locking pin-locking-timing-pin-pump-diagram-may-15.jpg   Using the inj. pump locking pin-ip-timing-locking-tool-may-15.jpg  
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Old 05-17-2015, 04:53 PM
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Thanks, very informative.
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Old 02-28-2025, 09:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 300 Super D View Post
Thanks, very informative.
Some of it is difficult to describe in words.

I had to go fetch a picture. This is a pic of my emission sticker.

In the yellow circle is the normal before top dead center timing. That 24 degrees are use with aliening the marks at the front of the fuel injection pump, splines and bearing cap mark and with the drip method of timing after the pump has properly been stuck back in.

It is kind of cryptic but in the read lined area is the after top dead center timing done with the timing locking pin, the RIV method of timing and the A-B light type of timing.

I have used the timing locking pin before, and it is quick and easy timing method if you had the pump out of the engine.
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Using the inj. pump locking pin-84-mercedes-300d-emission-sticker.jpg  

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