Hi guys,

I fully-realize that the definitive fix for a leaking rear (or front) windshield is to replace the gasket with a genuine MB gasket. I know. This is my 3rd W123, and I've replaced the gaskets before.

Having said that, have you guys found a good temp fix until there is enough money and energy to replace the gasket(s)?

I just picked up a (new to me) 240D, and my wallet needs to lick it's wounds for awhile before I can afford to replace gaskets.

In the past, I've put a bead of RTV windshield sealer around the rear window to try and fix things.

The main symptom right now is that water is leaking into the trunk by dripping down the corners of the rear windshield.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Packman

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83 240D - 4 speed manual - Manilla Beige
189K miles, Tachometer mod, cool wooden shift knob from PeachParts, CocoMats, Original factory paint, manual windows, manual sunroof. Starting to add AudioWrap to this car too!

Duct tape,,, or if you want clear,,, packing tape.

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Closing the store
Benzbonz.biz on your smart phone or tablet.

Don't rule out the fact that it could be leaking where it joins the back of the roof.

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'83 300D, 126K miles.

I think squiggledog used plumbers putty to seal his up. Seem to remember it did a nice job too and looked decent.

Here ya go My Custom 1980 W116 300SD Project

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2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily
2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily
1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended
1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper
1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL
2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped
1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above
1992 BMW 525i -traded in
1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103
1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one
1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold

Don't use duct-tape. That stuff is a b*tch to remove later on. You'll have the adhesive all over the paint, and with a little bit of luck you'll even rip bits of pain off.

As a temporary thing, I'd use gaffer's tape. I got a big roll of it at a camera shop. Slightly more expensive than duct-tape, but won't leave residue behind and is still waterproof.

It's how I "temporarily" fixed my sieve of a sun-roof...

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"The MB W123 is so bulletproof, you can drive them forever. Which is a good thing as it takes that long to get anywhere."
Betsie: 1984 W123 300D (hobby, 280k miles)
Myrla: 2001 Mazda Protege 2.0 ES 5spd (daily driver, 130k miles)
The Turd: 2007 Toyota Camry (wife's car, 118k miles)

NOOOO TAPE . Used this on my 300SD and works great ...

Permatex® Flowable Silicone Windshield & Glass Sealer .....pick it up at your auto parts store ....3 tubes sealed my entire rear 300SD windshield ..

Clean area - carefully scrape & cut away any dry rotted loose old seal with sharp exacto blade/ knife. Make sure area is clean ..Follow directions .

Slowly seal windshield.

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'87 924S
'81 280SEL

Sold ->

81 300SD -
93 300E w/ 3.2
85 300D-
79 300SD
82 300CD
83 300CD - CA
87 190E 5 spd
87 Porsche 924S

"..I'll take a simple "C" to "G" and feel brand new about it..."

That stuff really is good, but you have to put a lot of time into getting things perfectly clean and dry. Any dirt or moisture inhibits the seal. The downside is that any silicone sealant makes cleanup for a replacement seal very difficult. The other problem is that most of the time these rear window seals leak between the rubber and the body, not between the rubber and the glass.

There's a fair bit of space around the outside of the seal to pack plumbers putty into, and it will work for at least a little while. You have to choose the right product. Every maker of plumbers putty has a different formulation. The non-drying types which, are oil free, hold up better. They are also much easier to remove when the gasket finally is replaced, which is inevitable.

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'79 240D

if you are leaking water into the trunk from the upper corners, you have more than a gasket problem. The seating channel under the gasket is rusted through. This is precisely the problem I had and fixed on my W123 coupe.

No amount of sealing gunk or tape (gagg) will fix it. The rear windshield must be removed and the channel rebuilt by a competent body shop, then a new gasket used to replace the windshield.

If you have a basically good car and want to keep it you must do this. It is not too expensive. As I recall it cost me about $300 and I provided the gasket which for a coupe was big bucks. Sedan gaskets are much less expensive.

The good news is you will be good to go for another 30 plus years.

Yes, I know that a new gasket is the definitive fix, and I HAVE done both from front and rear windshields on prior W123s. They are about $180 for the MB factory gasket, and then another $300 to have a shop R&R the glass. I helped the guy, and it's a pain to do. Definitely want someone who has done this over and over again.

I'm just trying to give my wallet a breather.

Thanks,

Packman

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83 240D - 4 speed manual - Manilla Beige
189K miles, Tachometer mod, cool wooden shift knob from PeachParts, CocoMats, Original factory paint, manual windows, manual sunroof. Starting to add AudioWrap to this car too!

I don't think it is the upper corners. It is the lower corners.

I know about needing to fix the underlying rust and such. I did it on the other car.

Packman

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83 240D - 4 speed manual - Manilla Beige
189K miles, Tachometer mod, cool wooden shift knob from PeachParts, CocoMats, Original factory paint, manual windows, manual sunroof. Starting to add AudioWrap to this car too!