W210 Lug Bolt Sheared Off - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

treetops · #1 06-04-2015, 09:49 PM

Yes, indeedy, I did just do this today. I had been meaning to replace them as per Shertex's threads and sage advice, but life got busy and well this how this story ended. Luckily just one, but man what a PITA. I read through the two recent threads about this and the one over on BW, but did not see any how to's or detailed tips.

I come here looking for any tips on how to remove a sheared off, at the head, lug bolt on my e300. I am thinking drilling is the only option since there really is nothing to grab with pliers or vice grips. I am considering a steel tube, same diameter as the shank, to act as guide and drill down through it to the collar. Then what?

Any ideas or experience would be helpful...or just take it to a shop?

PS-Yes, I am kicking myself
PPS Change those @&#^$( lug bolts.

NickCox · #2 06-04-2015, 09:58 PM

I drilled it out two different w210 rims with an 1''1/8 hole saw bit. Worked. Better than I expected for sure

shertex · #3 06-04-2015, 10:02 PM

As you know, I feel your pain.

My indie was explaining to me how he did it...but I didn't quite follow. I'll see him over next couple of days and can ask again. Whatever he does, it's an hour labor PER BOLT.

The good folks at Firestone had ABSOLUTELY no idea what to do.

GregMN · #4 06-04-2015, 10:15 PM

Drilled it out with a reverse twist drill. Took about 3 hours.

treetops · #5 06-04-2015, 10:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NickCox

I drilled it out two different w210 rims with an 1''1/8 hole saw bit. Worked. Better than I expected for sure

Hole saw? So that cut through the collar and then the wheel can come off or through the shank and collar?

Reverse bit? Is that the same as a right handed one?

shertex · #6 06-04-2015, 10:42 PM

HOLE SAW...that's what my indie used. And I notice on the receipt each bit was $12.

EdzBenz · #7 06-04-2015, 11:58 PM

My indy used a blow torch. Destroyed the rim. Gave me an excuse to find a "new" set of rims to use as my winter rims.

w123fanman · #8 06-05-2015, 01:35 AM

Those bolts are the worst, especially if your hubs are damaged. My mechanic drilled out probably 8 of them on my 190D, free of charge (which I feel bad about, they were sticking when I got the vehicle), so I decided to find good used hubs and I installed them myself.

treetops · #9 06-05-2015, 07:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shertex

HOLE SAW...that's what my indie used. And I notice on the receipt each bit was $12.

Im still not seeing how this works. To me the 1 1/8" hole saw is cutting through the wheel so the shank/collar clears the rim? Is that right?

shertex · #10 06-05-2015, 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by treetops

Im still not seeing how this works. To me the 1 1/8" hole saw is cutting through the wheel so the shank/collar clears the rim? Is that right?

My guess is you're cutting off the collar, thereby enabling the rim to clear what remains of the bolt....and then you drill out the bolt.

Maxbumpo · #11 06-05-2015, 08:29 AM

If I'm understanding correctly, the remains of the bolt have the shoulder which is holding the rim onto the hub? Wow, that is ugly.

If you removed the hub, would that give you access to the back side of the bolt? Then you could drill out from behind? Another trick would be to weld a nut onto the remains of the bolt, and turn out with that nut, but very difficult to do that with the rim still in place. Mother-honking big spot welder with a long probe to go down into the rim?

Can you grind away the remaining shoulder with a dremel tool? I'd try to figure out a tool to get down in that rim and grind away what is holding the rim in place, and then weld a new nut onto the remains of the bolt and then I'll bet it turns right out.

Graham · #12 06-05-2015, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shertex

My guess is you're cutting off the collar, thereby enabling the rim to clear what remains of the bolt....and then you drill out the bolt.

I can see how using a hole saw might work, but 1 1/8"??

Wouldn't it have to be just the diameter of the shank. But that is only 12mm. There are 12mm holes saws, but I can't see them working too well
(12mm Metal Twist Drill Bit Cutter Hole Saw W Hex Wrench from Ux_mall,$4.05 | DHgate.com)

The mushroom diameter is about 22mm. I could see first drilling a pilot hole - say 4 or 6mm. Then drilling with something a bit bigger, say 10mm. Measure depth needed off a good stud. Then finish with a 12 or 14 mm drill and dome/mushroom should disconnect.

If there is enough of the 12mm extension sticking out, I read where one mechanic hammered on an impact socket that formed the stub enough to make a good contact, then used his impact wrench to remove. There are also external easy-outs that would do a better job:

Metric Stripped Socket Bolt Rounded Head Nut Extracter Set Easy Out Extractor Mm | eBay

Having researched this when I had 5 bolts resisting removal, I eventually got them loose by applying heat with pencil butane torch, then PB Blaster between wheel and hub, then hammering using brass drift pin, then impact wrench over and over in both directions until bolts eventually spun loose. I wouldn't use anything that can apply excessive torque, like a breaker bar. More than likely will break bolt.

BTW, I now have full set of short bolts installed on E320!

vstech · #13 06-05-2015, 09:59 AM

simple...

get a carbide bit... NOT the tile type, a true carbide bit. drill the hole 12mm in the center of the bolt mushrom... the head falls off the bit, and the wheel is free, and you simply unscrew the remaining lug.

vstech · #14 06-05-2015, 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by w123fanman

Those bolts are the worst, especially if your hubs are damaged. My mechanic drilled out probably 8 of them on my 190D, free of charge (which I feel bad about, they were sticking when I got the vehicle), so I decided to find good used hubs and I installed them myself.

I cannot imagine what 190 has this type of extended bolts that fail...

w123fanman · #15 06-05-2015, 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

I cannot imagine what 190 has this type of extended bolts that fail...

When I got it, it had extremely heavy W124 8 hole rims with flush mount bolts. Why? I really don't know. That's why I went with CLK rims when a decent set popped up on Craigslist for cheap and now I am deciding if on my reshell if I shall put on the stock 15 holes or the set of 15 inch Centras Type 31 that I just got.