Fun, fun, fun!

Tedious work but not a killer. It took 4 hours to get it out. I researched a mountain of info, advice, warnings, cautions, etc. before I started. It reminded me of removing the dash and related components from the old VW Rabbits I used to tinker with. I got pretty fast at that job.

I used my electrical sticky numbers to label everything that wasn't self-explanatory. Getting the HVAC box all cleaned up today and I will pick up my new evaporator tomorrow. I read numerous times that ACM was the way to go BUT no one carries them any more. Peachparts.com doesn't have them. I had to go with OEM. Had to do what I had to do.

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after all I'm doing to it.

New AC evaporator, rec./dryer, expansion valve, compressor clutch
New HVAC blower
Fresh differential fluid
New timing chain, rail, guides, tensioner, cam sprocket
Turbo wastegate conversion

One day... one day... I'm going to rebuild the front end.

I completely rebuilt my front end 1 year ago and although it was heavier work, it seems a lot easier than what you are diving into right now! Good luck.

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1995 E300 Diesel

Nice work so far! Evap is a pain but far from a reason to scrap the car as some fatalists will tell you. I did the job on around 7.5 hours. Just sort of sit down, open a beer and get in the zone.

The icy cold AC that doesn't leak out every week just adds to the satisfaction of knocking this job out.

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68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500

Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i

Which car....it looks like they're all "gone.". And if you don't mind me asking, how much does an OEM evap set you back.

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'89 260e (212K Mi.), '92 400e (208K Mi.), '92 400e (not a misprint) (146K Mi.), '95 C220, '81 240D--Sold

They're all gone but one and its gonna be gone if it keeps eating up my money. I was TOLD it was OEM. $150. I'm not getting my hopes up. I'm thinking BEHR would be OEM but the parts dealer told me it is a Reinz. We'll see.

In a crunch and need the car out of my garage so I'm rolling the dice on this evaporator. If I have to replace it again in a year then I guess I lose the bet. Then again, I have more time than money at the moment.

The issue with the stock evaps is that they are two different metals soldered together, I think its copper and aluminum or brass and aluminum, I always forget, but the point is they are different, and eventually they crack at the joins.

The replacement unit is either all aluminum or all brass.

People act like its rampant in 124s, they seem to last 15-30 years before they break, and they new ones are "improved" so I doubt you'll ever do a second.

For what its worth the list price at the dealer for 1248300758 is $515.00. But you can get it online around $400-450.

Rein Automotive makes the aftermarket parts, I don't think its Reinz as in Victor Reinz.

Also everything in the original system is stamped Behr. Maybe when they switched the way they are made, they switched to Rein.

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68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500

Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i

I am contemplating this job now. I am topping up the R134 quite often now. Where did you order the evap for $150?

EDIT: Never mind. Just looked on Peachparts. Rein available for $145.

Rgds,
Chris W.
'95 E300D, 443K

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Objects in closer are mirror than they appear.

I'm going to try this product:

Cliplight - Super Seal Premium - The Classic Auto A/C Sealant

My neighbor and a guy on a MB list that I know have both had great success. One Volvo, one MB W140. The Volvo would leak out over a year or so, the 140 would leak out in a week. Years later the Volvo is going fine, this is one year anniversary for the 140 and it has held its charge just fine also.

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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

Read up on PAO 68 oil. It doesn't absorb moisture like PAG oil does and works with all refrigerants, including R-134A if you want to continue with that (scheduled to be out-lawed). I use Duracool in all my vehicles, even the 2002. But, an evaporator can still corrode thru from the outside. See if you can tell how yours failed.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

I found a pin hole leak on the front of the evaporator. No real explanation as to why it would leak there but it did.

The new evaporator has been installed and the system is back up and running. It's nice and cold.

On to other repairs now. New struts and hopefully I can repair that pesky "unibrow" wiper to rest in the correct position.