I have a 1985 300d with 230k miles that I bought from an original owner. It is clean. The only issues are A/C isn't working, steering play, and the right rear quarter panel must have been hit because the repair job is terrible. You can see the discolored paint and bondo cracking. Other than that, the car runs and drives great. I have the opportunity to buy a 1983 300d with 204k miles for $2k. The body is completely straight and it doesnt have any rust, no paint fade but the paint will need buffing. The A/C too isn't working and it also has steering play. Is it worth getting the 1982 for $2K and selling the 1985??? Is it worth taking the 1985 rear end and putting it on the 1982?
Need help deciding if it is worth it or am I wasting my time???
Thanks!

This sort of judgment is only possible with a lot more information and great pictures. You don't say what you paid for the first car either, though it sounds like a very nice car.

Its probably hard to justify changing the diff though. The steering on both cars will probably adjust so that it has no play as that is not much mileage on a steering box.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Spend the $2k on the 1985....

Jim

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14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles
95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles
94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles
85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles

Agreed.

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83 SD

84 CD

Sounds to me like you are overthinking something.

You have an '85 that was one owner? So do I, actually. You won't find anything better.

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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

Who knows? But, the rear quarter panel on the 1985 would always bug me if it were my car.

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1984 300D, 228k, Light Ivory, Java MB-Tex

Not me....if its too bad I'd redo it.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

We have an 85 too and that is what i would do. At least it would be the devil that I know rather than an unknown car that might have other issues.

However, OP was looking at buying for $2k and then selling his 85, so he would not have $2k to spend. If he got $2k for the 85, perhaps just a no cost swap.

What would it cost to repair and repaint one 1/4 panel? As it is, I am about to have that done on my R107 because wheel arch flare made contact with my garage door frame . Actual cost here in Canada to repair is $600+tax although insurance appraiser allowed $1200.

Adjusting steering play is covered in shop manual. Simple job. I have adjusted mine 2 or 3 times in past 25 years. But good to get front end ball joints etc checked out just in case it is not just the steering box.

Having said all that, I would be tempted by a rust free 82 that needs little work. But after 25+ years, it would be hard to sell our car - it's part of the family!

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

The '85 not only has the 2.88 differential but also a different stall speed TC.

I got the 1985 for $200. It was sitting parked for about 3.5 years. It wasn't running. I had it towed home. I put in a new battery and it started right up! I then changed all the fluids, oil, power steering, transmission, etc... I also had to change out the brakes because they were all seized up and bought some new tires for it. I put about $1200 into the car. I am just worried if I get the 1982 MB that I will have a hard time selling the 1985. Also, I didn't know if the 1982 was that much better? I always here that the pre-85 are the best ones because there is no trap oxidizer, has better transmission, and no Klima relay thingy? I didn't know if getting the old dents out of the rear quarter panel and getting it resprayed again too try and match the rest of the car, which I know will not, was even worth with?

At this age and mileage, it's very unlikely adjusting the box will cancel out the play.

It's a reasonable assumption that most, if not all, of the front end components need to be replaced, as well as adjusting the box.

I've done this dance on several W123s, you are not going to get a tight front end until you replace all the worn components.....

A little play, plus some more little play, plus some more.... pretty soon you are talking about a lot of play.....

Jim

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14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles
95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles
94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles
85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles

That's more or less what I too suggested upthread.

However, in thinking about what I have done first when steering "feels" loose, is to check tire pressures! Set them exactly to the pressures on the filler flap and the car tracks and feels fine! Set them 30psig all round (like tire shops seem to) and the car wanders all over the place.

I believe the 85 was the best of the series. No trap oxidizer unless from California? Klima thingy? If I have one, it has never been a problem

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

As was said....put the 2k into the car you already have...

I too though....would love to see photos of these two cars, ads....something before I am asked to make the decisions for the owner...

As was also said...steering play is totally normal on these cars....technology wasn't what it is today some 30 years ago...

That and people seem to forget that these cars wear and age....not for the better....

Replacing the tie rods, center link/drag, and damper is the first start to tightening up steering...but ONLY and ONLY use Lemforder or OEM parts....my last set of uro tie rods...last one month...

Its amazing how well these cars come back to luxury stats when you start to replace all the worn, aged, and cracked bits...just replacing the bushings in the stick shift in the euro is making me have to re learn the shifter all over again....plus every day I drive it the shifting is getting better....never knew a stick could shift so nice until I put those 40$ worth of bushings in...and also removed 30+ years of old grease n dirt..

Same goes for the auto on the 78....was a real big PITA to get it shifting as it did from the factory but boy I am in love with the auto on the 78...car drives so nice..

Point of the story...put the money back into the 85...because with the 82/83 you'll just be getting more headaches....take it from the people who just had to go out and buy a second one...

Also in my point of view....I would rather a car be cracked up and ding but running as it left the factory....then to have a shinny rough idling smoking ride that has seen zero work since before I was born...

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You need more diagnostics on the front end. With front wheels up on ramps, have someone turn the wheel slightly back & forth and look at all components to find the main play. You can check the steering box yourself in the engine bay. Turn the shaft back & forth and note how far before you feel any resistance. Adjusting the play out isn't hard, if the top screw has adjustment left. You unscrew it to remove play, so if already all the way out, you can't.

A front fender would be easy (unbolts), but qtr panels are a pain. The only way to know is to wirebrush off all the Bondo and see if a cheapie rivet job or they welded and formed to get the metal close enough for just a thin coat of filler.

Don't fret over the Klima relay box. I think there are posts on installing a normal simple relay instead. I think the 3 cabin climate boxes are the same as earlier years, so should be just one "turn on AC clutch" wire you can re-route. I recall the Klima box adds other inputs (rpm, kickdown switch, ...) and decides if it wants to turn it on. You can actuate the clutch w/ a 12 V jumper and see if the AC compressor works and cools. If so, the repair is easy.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

I had an 83 300D that had a complete (everything) front end overhaul and I installed a NOS steering box.

For the next five years of ownership, the car was tight as a new car, no play, no wander, perfect......

Until you replace 30+ year old parts, you are going to get tolerance stackup and resultant play. You can only dial out some of the play with the box, overdo it, and the box will tighten up and not return to center.

When you spend the time and money to do it right, not halfway, these old cars are impressive even compared to new cars.....

Jim

__________________
14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles
95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles
94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles
85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles