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#1
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Questions about..ALERT - Lube Your Ignition Lock and Tumbler for Long Life:
This is a recent you tube vid.
I respect this forum and will alter the link with the word DOT for the actual period symbol since the creator is a service and parts provider. I have read the archives and some folks claim that the brass pieces inside the tumbler are 'self lubricating' and the key dust falls through the body and does not stick inside unless you had sprayed wet lube inside. Most recommendations are for using only dry graphite powder for lubing. This vid, besides possibly being a sales vid, is informative. I am looking for your opinions and experiences regarding the maintenance of these subject parts. https://www.youtube DOT com/watch?v=9Wi3bWetX2E Does anybody regularly lube their ignition tumblers and back sides?? How about the experience with aftermarket tumblers. I also read that the dealer does not sell tumblers for vintage cars and does not match VIN and keys anymore. My car's tumbler and steering lock is fine as both were replaced about 12 years ago (low mileage car) . I am asking this in order to generate some updated info for this forum and my own knowledge. Thanks
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1979 300D 220 K miles 1995 C280 109 K miles 1992 Cadillac Eldorado Touring Coupe 57K miles SOLD ******************** 1979 240D 140Kmiles (bought for parents) *SOLD. SAN FRANCISCO/(*San Diego) 1989 300SE 148 K miles *SOLD |
#2
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After much research on this subject, I went with Super Lube Dri Film (link below). I bought mine from a local locksmith who recommends it to his customers.
I've been using it regularly on both cars for several years and after spraying it into the ignition lock, you can easily tell the difference when inserting and turning the key. I spray both cars about once a month. At the price of ignition locks, I figure ten bucks is cheap insurance. http://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-11016-Aerosols-Dri-Film/dp/B000RFRM4U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1437768940&sr=8-1&keywords=Super+Lube+dri+film |
#3
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Husky Man that is a good start for this thread. Yeah, since parts for some are no longer available or of questionable quality control, perhaps this "alert" is a good thing for generating ideas and opinions !
Thanks for your tip ! OH and do you remove the tumblet to lube or just spray with tumbler installed in place?
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1979 300D 220 K miles 1995 C280 109 K miles 1992 Cadillac Eldorado Touring Coupe 57K miles SOLD ******************** 1979 240D 140Kmiles (bought for parents) *SOLD. SAN FRANCISCO/(*San Diego) 1989 300SE 148 K miles *SOLD |
#4
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I have found that the grease stick you buy called door ease can be used in molten/liquid form for such jobs.
I have used it in the same way in my W124. Works a treat.
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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model) 1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017) 2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017) |
#5
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Quote:
I just went through a learning experience with this subject. A previous owner had replaced the ignition tumbler with a normally-keyed one. So now I have a key for the ignition, and, after much fussing, I have discovered that I have a separate key (probably the original) for everywhere else. The original key is what the locksmith called a "high-security" key; there are grooves in the side of the key instead of a pattern ground on the edge of the key. Anyway, my locksmith used ZEP 45 in the cylinders:
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Mike Frederick 1986 300SDL, 240K+ miles 1985 300D KaliKar, 270K+ miles |
#7
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Nice write up M Frank !
So far: super lube DRI w PTFE, door ease grease stick dissolved Zep 45 w PTFE sewing machine oil. Mr. Frank makes it clear that he lubes after removing/dismantling the tumbler. How about the others? Just spray (dry lube PTFE) into the tumbler while in place ? Nice ideas !
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1979 300D 220 K miles 1995 C280 109 K miles 1992 Cadillac Eldorado Touring Coupe 57K miles SOLD ******************** 1979 240D 140Kmiles (bought for parents) *SOLD. SAN FRANCISCO/(*San Diego) 1989 300SE 148 K miles *SOLD |
#8
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Quote:
There are some web sites out there that offers replacement ignition key and lock assemblies complete. Check with pelican parts first and if they don't offer it, google is your friend. Just type in "Mercedes replacement ignition key and lock assembly" and you should be able to locate them..... |
#9
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To be honest, at this point in their lives, for the $150 some odd dollars that a the dealer charges for a new cylinder and key, and the 20mintes or so it takes to replace it, I think the best choice is that everyone just replaces theirs....
The one in my old 300TE seemed ok, it needed a jiggle every so often to turn the key though. I decided that it was probably a good idea to replace it. SO ordered a new one, took out the old one, and it fell apart. Literally fell into pieces when I took it out. Dodged a bullet there.... Its just not worth the inconvenience if it sizes up of having to grind and cut the old one out.... Just my 2 cents...
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2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily 2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily 1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended 1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper 1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL 2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped 1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above 1992 BMW 525i -traded in 1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103 1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one 1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold |
#10
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Lock Lube!
Locks come from the factory internally lubed with a white grease, Mercedes Benz specifies a particular grease - Lubricating Grease, locking cylinder, spray can, 50 ml, MB # 002 989 06 51
Last edited by BatteredBenz; 07-29-2015 at 02:04 PM. Reason: Fixed incorrect part number |
#11
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I read in another thread where there 8 or so different tumblers. The lock can be re-keyed by swapping them around so that they are flush when the key is inserted. Per the link above, they can also be ground down if you don't have the exact match. Of course, grinding would make more keys fit hte lock - perhaps some keys that you don't want to fit.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do. |
#12
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the mercedes spray can is nice, seems like white lithium grease.
Superlube in the little gray tube is also usable I think, its pretty good for plastic etc. too.
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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model) 1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017) 2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017) |
#13
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Super Lube synthetic grease with PTFE is another recommendation.
The nice thing about spray vehicles is the ease of wetting the insides without removing the tumbler. Also I use great care in how I insert and remove my key. I also do not hang other keys on the same key chain while the ignition key is active.
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1979 300D 220 K miles 1995 C280 109 K miles 1992 Cadillac Eldorado Touring Coupe 57K miles SOLD ******************** 1979 240D 140Kmiles (bought for parents) *SOLD. SAN FRANCISCO/(*San Diego) 1989 300SE 148 K miles *SOLD |
#14
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Quote:
I think once a year in all the tumblers is sufficient.
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Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#15
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Good catch, it was 002 not 003, thanks for noticing that problem.
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