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#1
08-19-2015, 01:29 PM
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Temp gauge pegged out after having dash out
Removed dash to change out gears on odometer. no problem there. installed and took out for test. all was working well and after driving for 3 tenths of a mile the temp gauge a fuel gauge pegged out. drove back home made sure I was connected correct. Actually had a spare gauge and plugged it in., temp gauge pegged out. Any ideas? I have had the dash out several times and I have never had this happen.
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Joseph Blackwell 1985 300SD 1990 300 2.5 Turbo 
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#2
08-19-2015, 01:59 PM
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Check your basic grounds... battery to engine, battery to body... then go up from there..
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html
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#4
08-19-2015, 02:46 PM
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Did you disconnect the positive lead on the battery before removing the instrument cluster? It possible that the panel could have bumped a hot connection while you removing it, and something shorted out.
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#5
08-19-2015, 03:44 PM
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just removed again and used emery cloth to clean the thin grounding strap from speedo to the temp gauge cluster installed back and initially went to 120c then jumped back to 80c. . noticed a pulse on gauges from clock. disconnected clock . stopped pulsing but then jumped back to 120.
checked engine with a temp gun and it is running around 80c on thermostat housing. Seems to be a ground as leathermag mentioned but not locating.
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Joseph Blackwell 1985 300SD 1990 300 2.5 Turbo
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#6
08-19-2015, 05:33 PM
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If you find the wiring diagram... these things are usually constructed like ' trees'..
so you are really looking for the first time the items which are not working have a common limb ... concentrate there if you are sure the rest of the basic tree roots are grounded....
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html
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#7
08-20-2015, 09:01 AM
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I could not find where I was getting ground to the instrument cluster. I took a small jumper after trying several tries at getting the ground to make up thru the instrument cluster and jump it to the thin grounding strap behind the speedometer cluster when you remove it. everything went back normal. so I took a thin piece of copper shim and soldered a clip with wire to it and slid under the grounding shim strap on cluster then clipped onto the abundance of grounds behind the instrument cluster. So for now it is working but not sure how or why I lost ground in instrument cluster.
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Joseph Blackwell 1985 300SD 1990 300 2.5 Turbo
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#9
08-21-2015, 01:19 PM
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After I pulled the round multi-pin out my instrument cluster (1981 300SD) to put gears in the odometer, I plugged it back in wrong - maybe a pin or two out - but it felt right when I plugged it back in.
Started car fine and noticed both blinker lights were on. Strange. The blinkers and hazard lights worked normally but the blinker lights just remained lighted. Not sure what to do. Drove down the driveway and the dash gauge showed the car completely overheated - pegged in the red - and oil gauge pegged even at idle. I knew that was not right because the engine had not been started more than 45 seconds and it was raining like crazy on the hood; could not be overheated. And when I am at idle the oil gauge needle drops down considerably. So something wrong. I pulled the multi-plug back out and realigned my pre-takeout markings to get it back in right. Plugged it back in and good to do. So if the multi-plug is off by a pin or two, you will get some of the same conditions mentioned in your post above. Glad you got it sorted out.
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